1 The Director of Photography – an overview
1 The Director of Photography – an overview
1 The Director of Photography – an overview
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150 Practical Cinematography<br />
If a scratch shows as a continuous line, then there is probably something<br />
stuck in the light trap <strong>of</strong> the magazine or possibly one <strong>of</strong> the layon<br />
rollers in the magazine is not rotating freely. If the magazine<br />
employs felt rollers as part <strong>of</strong> the light trap, they may need cle<strong>an</strong>ing.<br />
If you are in <strong>an</strong>y doubt as to where the scratching is occurring, run a<br />
second test <strong>an</strong>d before you remove the film from the camera take<br />
the lens out <strong>an</strong>d mark the frame in the gate. Now, when you unload<br />
the film you c<strong>an</strong> count the number <strong>of</strong> frames before or after the gate<br />
to the point where the scratch starts. If you now mark this point <strong>an</strong>d<br />
reload the camera again with the original marked frame in the gate,<br />
your new mark will be exactly where the scratching is occurring.<br />
You will need to check with the completion bond comp<strong>an</strong>y as to<br />
whether they wish to hold a developed copy <strong>of</strong> your scratch tests. If<br />
they do, only shoot them after you are confident your eyeball tests are<br />
absolutely free <strong>of</strong> scratches <strong>an</strong>d do not run the negative you will be<br />
sending them through a projector, where further scratching may<br />
occur. Simply run <strong>an</strong> eyeball test on the processed negative to reassure<br />
yourself all is well.<br />
Fog tests<br />
<strong>The</strong>se are rarely carried out unless you are going to a very hot <strong>an</strong>d<br />
sunny country. Point the camera at a wall <strong>an</strong>d write on the wall the<br />
magazine number, then underexpose this by at least one stop to give a<br />
dark grey image on which to look for fogging. Get a strong lamp <strong>an</strong>d<br />
run 20 feet <strong>of</strong> stock through each magazine while h<strong>an</strong>d-holding the<br />
lamp <strong>an</strong>d pointing its beam at all the joins between the magazine door<br />
<strong>an</strong>d its casing, then do the same for the camera door. On projecting<br />
the print you will quickly see whether <strong>an</strong>y light is getting through<br />
the seals.<br />
With a fog test it is useful to light the room <strong>an</strong>d the magazine number<br />
on the wall with a different coloured light th<strong>an</strong> is h<strong>an</strong>d-held<br />
around the camera <strong>an</strong>d magazine. So if the room <strong>an</strong>d wall are lit by<br />
tungsten light, use <strong>an</strong> HMI daylight lamp for the test. Conversely,<br />
if the room <strong>an</strong>d wall are lit with daylight, use a tungsten lamp for the<br />
test. This way even the slightest light leakage c<strong>an</strong> be detected as it will<br />
show up as a different colour to the image on the screen.<br />
Lens testing<br />
All the lenses should have been collimated by the hire house before<br />
delivery to you for testing. Should your DP be supplying some or all <strong>of</strong><br />
the lenses, then most hire houses will check their collimation free <strong>of</strong><br />
charge. Any faults found should be put right before your testing<br />
period starts.<br />
<strong>The</strong> lens tests that must be carried out are:<br />
● Infinity test<br />
● Resolution test<br />
● Focus tests at various dist<strong>an</strong>ces.<br />
In addition, as m<strong>an</strong>y focus pullers do not trust the engraved scale on<br />
some lenses, they insist on marking up critical focus points on plastic<br />
tape applied around the lens barrel. <strong>The</strong>y will also mark up individual