1 The Director of Photography – an overview
1 The Director of Photography – an overview
1 The Director of Photography – an overview
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132 Practical Cinematography<br />
effect remains more or less the same at all the focal lengths <strong>of</strong> the<br />
zoom, whereas in front <strong>of</strong> prime lenses the effect is different on differing<br />
focal lengths. This is mainly due to the variation in the amount <strong>of</strong><br />
physical net in the optical path. I c<strong>an</strong>not recommend this trick for<br />
16 mm, as the diffusion created, even with the finest net, destroys the<br />
definition <strong>of</strong> the image far more th<strong>an</strong> is usually acceptable.<br />
Be very careful that the net put in front <strong>of</strong> the lens does not become<br />
sharp enough to give you a pattern on the scene. This is a particular<br />
problem with 16 mm <strong>an</strong>d short-focal-length lenses. It will become<br />
immediately apparent the moment you move the camera.<br />
Nets will lend their own colour to a scene <strong>–</strong> a brown net will add <strong>an</strong><br />
overall warmth <strong>an</strong>d richness to the tones, for inst<strong>an</strong>ce, the darker nets<br />
adding more to the shadows <strong>an</strong>d the lighter nets to the highlights. Nets<br />
will also give a slight star effect to point sources. A c<strong>an</strong>dle flame shot<br />
with a black net c<strong>an</strong> look very attractive <strong>an</strong>d ‘Christmassy’.<br />
Matching shots<br />
You need to be very careful when using different focal length lenses<br />
during a scene on which you are using diffusion filters. Longer focal<br />
lengths will usually need less diffusion th<strong>an</strong> shorter lengths. Fortunately,<br />
these things are fairly WYSIWYG (what you see is what you get), but<br />
you have to look through with the stop on <strong>–</strong> it makes a difference.<br />
Enh<strong>an</strong>cing filters<br />
<strong>The</strong>se are very unusual filters that bring out, or accentuate, just one<br />
colour without affecting <strong>an</strong>y <strong>of</strong> the others. <strong>The</strong>y come in all the primary<br />
colours, though red is for some reason the most used. Both Tiffen<br />
<strong>an</strong>d Hoya produce excellent enh<strong>an</strong>cement filters. If you are to photograph<br />
a commercial with a red car as the product, do not leave home<br />
without a red enh<strong>an</strong>cer <strong>–</strong> it will bring the car forward a treat.<br />
Fluorescent light correction<br />
<strong>The</strong> FLB filter corrects fluorescent light to type B film, i.e. tungstenbal<strong>an</strong>ced,<br />
<strong>an</strong>d FLD corrects fluorescent light to daylight film. With<br />
modern negative emulsions they are hardly necessary for cinematography,<br />
as the tubes are so much better these days <strong>an</strong>d the processing<br />
laboratories have so much more experience in printing scenes shot<br />
under this lighting. Remember that if you c<strong>an</strong> light all the set with fluorescent<br />
light the laboratory correction will be most successful. Mixed<br />
light is a nightmare.<br />
Polar screens<br />
Polar screens are used to darken the blue portion <strong>of</strong> a sky in colour<br />
photography as well as reducing unw<strong>an</strong>ted reflections in particular<br />
parts <strong>of</strong> a scene. <strong>The</strong> classic use is to make the colour <strong>of</strong> a car more<br />
solid by reducing unw<strong>an</strong>ted glare in the paintwork.