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Congrès International sur l’Analyse du Cycle de Vie Lille, Novembre 2011
Methodology for environmental comparison of dyeing processes
Vanessa Pasquet, Anne Perwuelz, Nemeshwaree Behary
ENSAIT, GEMTEX, F-59056 Roubaix, France
Univ Lille Nord de France, F-5900 Lille, France
Vanessa.pasquet@ensait.fr ; anne.perwuelz@ensait.fr ; nmassika.behary@ensait.fr
Keywords: eco-design, textile dyeing, green chemistry
1. Introduction
Strict legislations and an increasing ecological concern have transformed eco-design in a
necessity for textile industry. Meanwhile, new technologies are developed and can substitute traditional
treatments [1]. However, in order to justify these alternatives, it is necessary to quantify environmental
impacts of these multi-parameters systems [2]. In a view of eco-design, we develop a methodology
suitable for comparison of equivalent textile processes using life cycle assessment tool.
We applied this methodology to the comparison of the three most common dyeing processes of
polyester, fibre which is widely used in the textile industry:
Dyeing below 100°C with the help of carriers (dyeing with carriers))
High-temperature and pressure conditions dyeing (HT, HP dyeing)
Continuous dyeing: padding – drying – fixing (Pad-therm dyeing)
2. Methodology
2.1. Goal and scope of the study
In order to obtain the same colour and durability properties for the three dyeing processes, we
performed laboratory tests and study influence of several parameters like amount of dye, temperature,
time, etc. As a result, the functional unit chosen is to “dye 1 kg polyester fabric with a colour strength given
by a K/S value 5 around 16,7 and good rubbing and washing durabilities (given by a 4/5 to 5/5 cotation)”.
Quantify a dyeing process is difficult as the combinations used by dyers are numerous and different for
each batch. There are many other combinations that could lead to this result.
Contrary to a classical life cycle assessment, we focus on a single-stage life cycle: dyeing
polyester fabric.
2.2 Life cycle inventory
Data of inventory for textile processes are often aggregated, missing, unclear, uncorresponding to
the fonctional unit choosen or cannot be extrapolated to industrial scale in the case of data obtained from
laboratory. In this study, we assigned the same degree of precision of data inventory for each process.
2.3. Results
The life cycle assessments are realized thanks to the software GaBi 4. The CML 2001 method
(updated in November 09) is used to calculate the environmental impacts.
Water consumption
150
Global Warming
Potential
Eutrophication
Potential
100
50
0
Energetic ressources
Abiotic Depletion
Acidification Potential
Dyeing with carriers Pad-therm dyeing HT, HP dyeing
5 K/S corresponds to a value characterising the colour strength of a sample depending on its spectral reflectance at a
given wavelength
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