You also want an ePaper? Increase the reach of your titles
YUMPU automatically turns print PDFs into web optimized ePapers that Google loves.
Targmani<br />
samoqalaqo omi friad arasasurvel<br />
garemoebas qmnida yvelasTvis, visi<br />
biznesic maRal sazogadoebaze iyo<br />
gaTvlili. balensiagac, romlis<br />
saqmianobac espaneTSi kraxiT damTavrda,<br />
Tavis klientebs sazRvargareT<br />
gahyva. inglisSi samsaxuris<br />
Zebnis procesi uSedegod dasrulda<br />
(arada, is aRmerTebda britanul<br />
samkervalo tradicias), ris Semdegac<br />
balensiagam yvelaferi Tavidan<br />
daiwyo or Tanamemamule emigrantTan<br />
erTad. eseni iyvnen baski<br />
finansisti nikola bizkarondo da<br />
rusuli warmomavlobis, energiuli<br />
frangi, vlajo zavrorovski<br />
d’atanvili, romelsac, rogorc<br />
uokerma miTxra, `kristobalma mTeli<br />
Tavisi siyvaruli uZRvna~.<br />
samma mamakacma ramdenime aseuli<br />
aTasi franki moagrova da es Tanxa<br />
Zlivs amyofina sadebiuto koleqcias,<br />
romelsac franguli presa<br />
didi aRtkinebiT Sexvda. `modi,<br />
momaval wels, cota waviocneboT,<br />
_ gamoucxada erT-erTma radiowamyvanma<br />
frang msmenelebs, _ amis<br />
saSualebas mogvcems es momajadoebeli<br />
koleqcia, romelic espanuri<br />
RvinosaviT maTrobelaa da mTlianad<br />
instinqtebsa da grZnobebzea<br />
agebuli~.<br />
amave radiowamyvanma koleqciis<br />
daxasiaTeba ase ganagrZo: `es<br />
Tvalwarmtaci, STagonebiT aRmvsebi<br />
kabebis koleqcia an zRaprul<br />
princesas unda ekuTvnodes, an infantas,<br />
anda madam de pompadurs,<br />
ferebi iisferidan daxvewil, tkbil<br />
pastelur tonebSi gadadis, sa-<br />
Ramos kabebis liturgiuli Savi da<br />
TeTri ki iseTia, TiTqos, geniosma<br />
daamuSavao, Tan isini harmoniulad<br />
esadageba maRali klasis dawyevlil<br />
gemovnebas~.<br />
Jurnalistis am qaoturma, pozitiurma,<br />
tkbilma bodvam faqtobrivad<br />
gansazRvra, Tu yvela Semdgomi<br />
recenziis ara, maTi umravlesobis<br />
toni. amas Tan daerTo inglisidan<br />
da amerikidan wamosuli qeba-didebac<br />
balensiagas `dRis samosis dramatuli<br />
ubraloebisTvis~, romelic<br />
128 cxeli Sokoladi<br />
Harper’s Bazaar-is mixedviT, efu-<br />
Zneba erT mniSvnelovan wess imis<br />
Sesaxeb, rom `Sikis saidumlo mis<br />
eqskluziurobasa da distanciurobaSia~.<br />
TviTon balensiaga ki erTaderT<br />
wess icavda ganuxrelad, kerZod,<br />
mas swamda, rom kompromisze uaris<br />
Tqmaa maRali modis umTavresi saidumlo.<br />
roca 1950-ian wlebSi, maRali<br />
modis sxva dizainerebi morCilad<br />
danebdnen biznesis gardauval<br />
demokratizacias da pret-a-portes<br />
warmoeba daiwyes, balensiaga jiutad<br />
eurCeboda am sayovelTao ryevebsa<br />
da tendencias. rogoric unda<br />
yofiliyo misi politika, mas mudam,<br />
okupaciis wlebSic ki, hyofnida gamWriaxoba,<br />
politikaze sajarod ar<br />
elaparaka (Tumca, misi erT-erTi<br />
yvelaze sando biografis, ingliseli<br />
xelovnebis istorikosis, lesli<br />
mileris TqmiT, erTxel, hitleris<br />
frazas damcinavad mainc gamoexmaura.<br />
hitlers gasCenia idea, maRali<br />
modis biznesi berlinSi gadaetanaT,<br />
balensiagas ki uTqvams: `iqneb xarebis<br />
iqiT gadarekvac moindomos da<br />
mere berlinSive gawvrTnas matadorebi~).<br />
ise ki, balensiagas monarqiis<br />
ZlevamosilebaSi eWvi arasdros<br />
Seutania. Se<strong>saba</strong>misad, saSinlad damabneveli<br />
ukiduresobebi, rac mis<br />
Semoqmedebas axasiaTebda _ asketizmi<br />
da pompezuroba, TavdaWeriloba<br />
da eqstravaganturoba, Seuwynarebloba<br />
da Tviniereba _ mxolod<br />
amZafrebda erT absurdul garemoebas<br />
_ balensiagas wrfeli guliT<br />
swamda espanuri kaTolicizmis.<br />
…<br />
RvTismosaoba da Siki _ es ori<br />
cneba ise gansxvavdeba erTmaneTisgan,<br />
rom maTi erTmaneTTan gajibreba<br />
uazrobac kia, magram morwmuneebsa<br />
da perfeqcionistebs mainc bevri<br />
aqvT saerTo. balensiagas moZRvari<br />
Tavis sulier Svils axasiaTebs rogorc<br />
`SeSinebul suls~, romelic<br />
SepyrobiliviT akvirdeboda Tavisi<br />
qvecnobieris TiToeul moZraobas.<br />
is ase iqceoda qalebis SemTxveva-<br />
Sic, maT gardaqmnas cdilobda da<br />
kabebSi, romelTac maTTvis qmnida,<br />
ucodvel mSvenierebas aqsovda.<br />
swored am maradiuli Sinagani<br />
gaorebis gamo, balensiaga sakuTari<br />
naSromiT bolomde kmayofili<br />
arasdros yofila. rogorc misi<br />
megobari, betina balardi ixsenebs,<br />
dizaineri `xan sicarielesa da Sinagan<br />
SimSils ebrZoda, xan _ usamar-<br />
Tlobis yovlismomcvel grZnobas~.<br />
roca franguli ZviradRirebuli<br />
biznesis aRzevebisTvis da 1947 wels<br />
Tavisi cnobili corolla siluetis SeqmnisTvis<br />
(mogvianebiT, am novacias<br />
ufro komerciuli saxeli New Look<br />
daarqves), kristian diorma gaiTqva<br />
saxeli, balensiaga Seuracxyofili<br />
darCa: TviTon xom TiTqmis aseTive<br />
formis kostiumebs, qviSis saaTis<br />
moyvanilobis kabebsa da uzarmazar<br />
qvedaboloebs jer kidev omamde periodSi<br />
da omis wlebSic keravda.<br />
`imisTvis, rom balensiagas gaugoT,<br />
unda icodeT, rom mis Semoqmedebas<br />
mxolod gansazRvruli stili<br />
ki ar hqonda, aramed Tavisi qcevis<br />
kodeqsic, _ miTxra JivanSim, _ balensiagas<br />
Zvelmodurad sjeroda,<br />
rom qalma Tavis kuturies ar unda<br />
uRalatos. roca sazogadoeba dioris<br />
New Look-iT aRfrTovanda da<br />
balensiagas saxlidanac ramdenime<br />
erTguli klienti wavida, dizaineri<br />
saSinlad dadardianda. klientebisa<br />
da presis meryeoba, Ralati<br />
verafriT aitana. amis Semdeg<br />
is ufro gulCaTxrobil adamianad<br />
iqca, sajarod gamoCenaze uars ambobda,<br />
aRarc yvelas emsaxureboda<br />
da mxolod ramdenime rCeul qals<br />
ukeravda kabebs piradad~. momdevno<br />
wels d’atanvilis moulodenlma<br />
gardacvalebam balensiaga sul<br />
mTlad gaanadgura. Tumca, pensiaze<br />
gasvla mas bolos mainc metoqem _<br />
kristian diorma gadaaTqmevina.<br />
espaneli dizaineri yovelTvis<br />
uarze iyo, iseve ezruna Tvi-<br />
Treklamaze, rogorc amas kristian<br />
diori akeTebda. msgavs saqciels is<br />
damamcireblad miiCnevda. magram<br />
balensiagas gamomwvevi dumili mxolod<br />
xazs usvamda mis upirateso-
Change language