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Targmani<br />
bas, 1947-48 wlebis ormagma Sokma<br />
ki mis talants kidev ufro didi<br />
biZgi misca. balensiaga warmoCinda,<br />
rogorc angariSgasawevi metoqe,<br />
romelic medidurobiT gamoirCeva.<br />
roca man daiTanxma Chambre Syndicale<br />
de la Couture, koleqciebi JivanSis-<br />
Tan erTad erTi Tvis dagvianebiT<br />
eCvenebina. Jurnalistebi, baierebi<br />
da yvela cnobismoyvare xelaxla<br />
miawyda parizs. am renegat dizainerebs<br />
presis eqskluziuri yuradReba<br />
ergoT. modis yvela mesvete da<br />
Jurnali maTze werda.<br />
balensiagas „tomara“ Jurnal-<br />
-gazeTebis pirvel gverdebze 1956<br />
wels moxvda. nawilobriv misi warmateba<br />
imanac gansazRvra, rom saSualo<br />
statistikuri adamianisTvis,<br />
es kaba agresiulad aseqsualuri<br />
iyo (samagierod, daintrigda felini.<br />
misi biografis, holis alperis<br />
TqmiT, balensiagas „tomaras“<br />
is „fantastikur, araCveulebriv“<br />
axal qmnilebas uwodebda, romelmac<br />
„Cems fantazias gasaqani misca“).<br />
Tumca, balensiagas kontrrevolucia<br />
amiT ar dawyebula. „tomaramde“<br />
erTi wliT adre man Tavisi<br />
pirveli kaba-tuniki warmoadgina<br />
_ monazvnuri mosasxami, sami-meo-<br />
Txedi sigrZis saxeloebiT, romlis<br />
qveSac swori qvedabolo Canda.<br />
mTeli 1950-iani wlebis ganmavlobaSi<br />
balensiagas yovel morig qmnilebas<br />
winaze ufro sufTa formebi,<br />
ufro masiuri zomebi da ufro meti<br />
geometriuloba axasiaTebda. istorikosi<br />
da kuratori riCard martini<br />
mis bluzasa da trapeciulad gamoyvanil<br />
`Tojinis kabas~ uwodebda<br />
sxeulis `galias~, miuxedavad imisa,<br />
rom es samosi qalis tans korsetis<br />
marwuxebisgan aTavisuflebda da<br />
yovel arasrulyofil sxeuls er-<br />
Tgvar SemniRbav, damcav tyveobas<br />
sTavazobda. imave periodis gogris<br />
formis SemosaWeri kaba warmoadgenda<br />
Wuprs, romlis SigniTac qals<br />
SeeZlo, sakuTari Tavi iseTad warmoedgina,<br />
rogoric ocnebebSi iyo<br />
TviTon; anda romlis SigniTac mamakaci<br />
iocnebebda qali-pepelas aR-<br />
130 cxeli Sokoladi<br />
moCenaze...<br />
ai, tuniki ki „boTlidan amomxtari<br />
jini iyo, romelsac ukan veRar<br />
Caabruneb“, _ werda mira uokeri<br />
winasityvaobaSi, romelic katalogs<br />
„balensiaga da misi memkvidreoba“<br />
erTvis Tan. tanze welis „gauqmebiT“,<br />
balensiagam Tavis Segirds,<br />
kureJs (kureJma balensiagas modis<br />
saxli 1961 wels datova) 1965 wlis<br />
kosmosuri xanis samosis Sesaqmnelad<br />
mza Targi misca, kosmosuri<br />
xanis stilma ki ukve minikabebis gamoCenisTvis<br />
saWiro safuZveli moamzada.<br />
ase rom, dizaineri, romelsac ma-<br />
Rali modis yvela sxva dizainers<br />
Soris, yvelaze naklebad ergeboda<br />
revolucioneris tituli, sakuTarive<br />
Tavis sapirispirod, axalgazrduli<br />
afeTqebis mesayvire gaxda.<br />
„gamudmebiT mesmoda, rom moda<br />
quCidan ibadeba, _ Tqva daiana vrilandma<br />
1973 wels, _ magram me modas<br />
pirvelad yovelTvis balensiagas<br />
qmnilebebs vamCnevdi“.<br />
...<br />
balensiagas bolo periodis koleqciebis<br />
modernulobis sawyisi<br />
quCis stilSi ar unda veZeboT<br />
miuxedavad imisa, rom is erT-erTi<br />
pirveli dizaineri iyo, romelmac<br />
maRalyeliani Ceqma da arlekinis<br />
windebi mokle kabas Seuxama, gamomwvev<br />
sportul tansacmelSi ki<br />
gamWvirvale plastmasi da xelovnuri<br />
bewvi gamoiyena. instruqciaTa<br />
ori, urTierTsawinaaRmdego wyebidan,<br />
romlebic man Semdgom Taobebs<br />
dautova gasaanalizeblad,<br />
pirveli uzenaesi Zalis sikvdilis<br />
Temas exeba, meore _ yvelaze rTulad<br />
warmosadgen utopias. mis memkvidreobaSi<br />
ki, saboloo jamSi,<br />
albaT, nacionalur folklorsa da<br />
xelovnebis istoriaSi gazavebuli<br />
meTevzis vaJis nostalgia imaleba;<br />
nostalgia didebulebis, aRmatebulobis<br />
mimarT. amis dasturia<br />
qalebisTvis Seqmnili mosasxamebi,<br />
romlebic fransisko de surbaranis<br />
madonas samoss hgavs, brWyviala Tv-<br />
lebiT mooWvili mokle qurTukebi<br />
_ matadoris boleroebi da bafTebiT<br />
morTuli fantastikuri ornamentebi,<br />
romelTa Seqmnis ideac muranos<br />
SuSis nivTebis SemqnelTagan<br />
unda modiodes…<br />
Tumca karieris bolos balensiagas<br />
sul ufro nakleb ainteresebda<br />
dizaineroba, rogorc sxeulis samosiT<br />
Semosvis rituali. nacvlad<br />
amisa, is qalis tans uyurebda, rogorc<br />
javSans, zedgamoWrils im<br />
amaRelvebeli da zogjer ucnauri<br />
abstraqciebisTvis, romelTac fotokamera<br />
idealurad aRbeWdavda<br />
(isedac, rom daukvirdeT, Tanamedrove<br />
modis istoria xom sxva araferia,<br />
Tu ara istoria modis fotografiis<br />
Sesaxeb).<br />
ZiriTadad im mizeziT, rom irvin<br />
penis, riCard avedonis, luis<br />
dal-volfis, bert Sternis, tom<br />
kublinis da ufro mogvianebiT, hiros<br />
fotoebi Sav-TeTria, xandaxan<br />
giWirs imis gaazreba, rom balensiaga,<br />
Zveli berZnebis, anda im maRali<br />
wris qalebis msgavsad, romlebic<br />
palm biCze atareben zamTris dReebs,<br />
sulac ar gaurboda gamomwvev,<br />
Wyetela feradovnebas: Ria alublisferi<br />
da limonisferi yviTeli;<br />
mowiTalo-moyavisfro tonaloba<br />
da samefo atributikisTvis damaxasiaTebeli<br />
cisferi; iisferisa da<br />
yviTlis farTo gradacia, romelic<br />
samfera iis yvavilebze Cans… qali,<br />
rogorc yvavili _ es motivi mudmivad<br />
meordeba balensiagas SemoqmedebaSi.<br />
Tumca yvelaze poeturi<br />
qali-yvavili maSin aris, roca yvelaze<br />
naklebi sizustiTaa gadmocemuli.<br />
amis saukeTeso magaliTi<br />
1967 wlis `kombosto-kapea~ _ abre-<br />
Sumis furfuSebis spiraliseburi<br />
xveuli, romelic swori siluetis<br />
kabis zeda nawils warmoadgenda<br />
da romlis damsaxurebiTac qalis<br />
sxeuli grandiozuli gvirgvinis<br />
Reros mogagonebdaT. meore magaliTi<br />
SeiZleba iyos 1966 wlis paraSutis<br />
abreSumis saRamos piJamo,<br />
romelic samganzomilebiani yvavilovani<br />
aplikaciebiT iyo dafaru-
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