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Hacking the Xbox

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62<br />

<strong>Hacking</strong> <strong>the</strong> <strong>Xbox</strong>: An Introduction to Reverse Engineering<br />

The Anatomy of an LED<br />

LEDs, or light emitting dodes, are polarized devices, which only<br />

allow current to flow in one direction. This means that <strong>the</strong>y will<br />

not work when put in backwards. Figure 3-9 illustrates <strong>the</strong><br />

anatomy of an LED. The shorter lead on <strong>the</strong> side of <strong>the</strong> LED<br />

package with a small flat is called <strong>the</strong> cathode. The cathode<br />

must be connected to a potential more negative than <strong>the</strong><br />

o<strong>the</strong>r lead, <strong>the</strong> anode, in order for <strong>the</strong> LED to function.<br />

Figure 3-9: The anatomy of an LED.<br />

flat mark<br />

(most cases)<br />

shorter<br />

lead<br />

cathode<br />

(negative)<br />

Differentl LEDs characteristically require a different amount of<br />

forward voltage to turn on. Red LEDs typically require 1.7 volts,<br />

green LEDS require about 2.1 volts, and blue LEDs require 3.5<br />

volts and up. Early blue LEDs required almost 5 volts of forward<br />

voltage, but advances in technology have decreased<br />

<strong>the</strong>ir voltage making <strong>the</strong>m easier to integrate into batterypowered<br />

and low voltage electronics. When shopping for an<br />

LED for this project, be mindful of <strong>the</strong> required forward voltage.<br />

If you install a 5 volt blue LED, its light output will be very<br />

dim, since <strong>the</strong> maximum forward voltage generated by <strong>the</strong><br />

<strong>Xbox</strong> drivers is around 3 volts.<br />

solder to wet <strong>the</strong> blue LED’s leads and <strong>the</strong> metal stub on <strong>the</strong> circuit<br />

board assembly. If this does not happen, remove <strong>the</strong> iron and apply a<br />

little bit of flux to <strong>the</strong> joint, and try again.<br />

Do not hold <strong>the</strong> soldering iron tip against <strong>the</strong> metal stub for extended<br />

periods of time or it will melt <strong>the</strong> solder that holds <strong>the</strong> stub in place.<br />

You will know that <strong>the</strong> stub’s solder joint to <strong>the</strong> board has melted, when<br />

<strong>the</strong> stub starts to sway freely. If this happens, hold <strong>the</strong> soldering iron tip<br />

against <strong>the</strong> board and slowly drag <strong>the</strong> soldering iron tip away. Dragging<br />

<strong>the</strong> tip will prevent <strong>the</strong> stub from getting pulled out of <strong>the</strong> board with <strong>the</strong><br />

iron. Wait for <strong>the</strong> stub to cool and bend <strong>the</strong> stub back into position.

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