Hacking the Xbox
Hacking the Xbox
Hacking the Xbox
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Strategy<br />
Chapter 5 - Replacing a Broken Power Supply 77<br />
Using Diodes to Drop Voltages<br />
The <strong>Xbox</strong> requires a +3.3V standby supply voltage, but an<br />
ATX power supply only outputs a +5V standby supply voltage.<br />
The “correct” solution to this problem would be to use<br />
a voltage regulator that precisely converts +5V into +3.3V,<br />
but <strong>the</strong> goal of this hack is to replace <strong>the</strong> power supply<br />
with a minimal amount of soldering.<br />
The alternate solution is to use two diodes to reduce a +5<br />
volt supply down to a “close enough” +3.6 volt supply. We<br />
can do this because <strong>the</strong> voltage across a forward conducting<br />
diode is logarithmically proportional to <strong>the</strong> current<br />
through <strong>the</strong> diode. In o<strong>the</strong>r words, for most currents, <strong>the</strong><br />
voltage across a diode is almost constant. It turns out that<br />
silicon diodes almost uniformly have a forward voltage drop<br />
of about 0.7 volts, so two of <strong>the</strong>m in series will drop 1.4 volts.<br />
The diodes used in this hack, <strong>the</strong> 1N4001, are only capable<br />
of conducting 1 ampere of current, so don’t use this trick in<br />
o<strong>the</strong>r applications that require a large amount of current.<br />
Fortunately, <strong>the</strong> stand-by supply for <strong>the</strong> <strong>Xbox</strong> only needs to<br />
draw a tiny amount of current so burning out <strong>the</strong> diodes is<br />
not a concern.<br />
As a final note, <strong>the</strong> voltage dropped by a diode fluctuates<br />
slightly with <strong>the</strong> amount of current through it, so do not use<br />
this trick in applications that require precisely regulated<br />
voltages. In <strong>the</strong> <strong>Xbox</strong> application, we are running <strong>the</strong> voltage<br />
a little bit on <strong>the</strong> high side, but fortunately <strong>the</strong> digital<br />
logic powered off of this supply can tolerate this condition.<br />
The interface for a standard ATX power supply is very similar to that of<br />
an <strong>Xbox</strong>’s power supply. The <strong>Xbox</strong> requires +3.3V, +5V, +12V, a +3.3V<br />
standby supply, as well as two control signals, “power OK” and “power<br />
on.” The power OK signal indicates that <strong>the</strong> power output from <strong>the</strong><br />
power supply is stable and properly regulated, and <strong>the</strong> Power On signal is<br />
a control signal from <strong>the</strong> <strong>Xbox</strong> that turns <strong>the</strong> power supply on and off. A<br />
typical ATX supply has +3.3V, +5V, and +12V outputs with enough juice<br />
to run an <strong>Xbox</strong>, and it also has a power OK signal that is compatible<br />
with <strong>the</strong> <strong>Xbox</strong> mo<strong>the</strong>rboard. However, an ATX power supply generates<br />
a +5V standby voltage instead of a +3.3V standby voltage, and <strong>the</strong><br />
Power On signal has an inverted polarity from <strong>the</strong> <strong>Xbox</strong>. Both of <strong>the</strong>se<br />
incompatibilities can be addressed in a manner that requires no soldering.<br />
Two diodes in series are used to reduce <strong>the</strong> +5V standby voltage down<br />
to a voltage of a little less than +3.6V. The Power On signal to <strong>the</strong> ATX<br />
power supply defaults to “on,” so it will remain unconnected, making <strong>the</strong><br />
power supply always on even if <strong>the</strong> console is off. This isn’t problematic for