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Hacking the Xbox

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78<br />

<strong>Hacking</strong> <strong>the</strong> <strong>Xbox</strong>: An Introduction to Reverse Engineering<br />

<strong>the</strong> console’s electronics, but it might be aes<strong>the</strong>tically disconcerting.<br />

Appendix C, “Getting Into PCB Layout,” describes a sample design that<br />

you can implement to avoid <strong>the</strong>se incompatibilities in a more graceful<br />

manner. However, <strong>the</strong> design outlined in <strong>the</strong> appendix will require you to<br />

invest some effort in <strong>the</strong> form of soldering and board design.<br />

Procedure<br />

The procedure for replacing <strong>the</strong> <strong>Xbox</strong> power supply consists of two<br />

parts:<br />

1. Modifying <strong>the</strong> standard ATX power cable to be an <strong>Xbox</strong><br />

power cable.<br />

2. Removing <strong>the</strong> old power supply and installing <strong>the</strong> new one.<br />

Building <strong>the</strong> <strong>Xbox</strong> Power Cable<br />

Begin by cutting off <strong>the</strong> existing ATX power supply’s mo<strong>the</strong>rboard<br />

connector as shown in Figure 5-1. You may elect to perform this modification<br />

using an ATX mo<strong>the</strong>rboard power extension cable, so you can<br />

preserve <strong>the</strong> ATX power connector on <strong>the</strong> power supply for future use.<br />

The procedure is identical for both options, but <strong>the</strong> pictures in this<br />

chapter are taken using <strong>the</strong> ATX mo<strong>the</strong>rboard extension cable.<br />

Now, attach crimp terminals to <strong>the</strong> following wires ten of <strong>the</strong> ATX cable,<br />

as shown in Figure 5-2:<br />

• One yellow wire<br />

• Three red wires<br />

• One orange wire<br />

• Four black wires<br />

• One gray wire<br />

If you are using a cheaper crimp tool, you may have trouble making a<br />

sufficiently strong crimp connection. In this case finish <strong>the</strong> connection by<br />

soldering <strong>the</strong> crimp terminal onto <strong>the</strong> wire. Use a copious amount of heat<br />

when soldering, or else <strong>the</strong> solder will not fully penetrate <strong>the</strong> wire and <strong>the</strong><br />

crimp terminal. The soldering iron should be in contact with <strong>the</strong> joint for<br />

about five seconds before and after applying <strong>the</strong> solder.<br />

On <strong>the</strong> violet wire (<strong>the</strong> +5V standby wire), attach two diodes in series<br />

between <strong>the</strong> end of <strong>the</strong> wire and <strong>the</strong> crimp terminal. The procedure<br />

shown in Figure 5-3 uses portions of crimp terminals for connecting <strong>the</strong><br />

diodes, so no soldering is required. (Note that diodes are polarized<br />

devices: <strong>the</strong>y will not conduct electricity if <strong>the</strong>y are installed backwards.<br />

The diodes should be installed with <strong>the</strong>ir cathodes (<strong>the</strong> end with <strong>the</strong> band<br />

painted on it) toward <strong>the</strong> mo<strong>the</strong>rboard.)

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