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u u bcn txl bud edi gva ncl osl tlv vce vno<br />

kortrijk<br />

belgium<br />

10,438,353 +32 6°C<br />

Euro (EUR)<br />

Emma Thomson<br />

THIS INNOVATIVE TOWN ON THE RIVER LEIE<br />

OFFERS A GENTLER PACE OF LIFE<br />

GROTE MARKT<br />

Dotted with cafés and restaurants,<br />

the city’s central square is presided<br />

over by a sturdy red-brick belfry –<br />

all that remains of the once-great<br />

13th-century cloth hall destroyed<br />

in World War II.<br />

SLEEP The stylish B&B Dharma<br />

(Groeningestraat 18, (0)56 29 36 56,<br />

bedandbreakfast-dharma.be,<br />

rooms from €80) has three beautiful<br />

rooms, decked out in calming colours<br />

and featuring interesting objets d’art.<br />

Note it’s cash only.<br />

EAT Nata (Grote Markt 4, (0)56 20<br />

12 20) is an upmarket brasserie that<br />

occasionally serves local speciality<br />

Kortrijkse bil (smoked veal). To sate<br />

a sweet tooth, Ridder & Hove<br />

(Voorstraat 7, (0)56 22 44 42) is<br />

the best place in town to try kalletaart<br />

– apple cake flavoured with marzipan<br />

and Calvados.<br />

CULTURE The course of Belgian<br />

history was changed forever on the<br />

outskirts of Kortrijk in July 1302, when<br />

Flemish foot soldiers went head to head<br />

with a cavalry of French knights – and<br />

won. Known as the Battle of the Golden<br />

Spurs, it was the first time in history<br />

INFO<br />

Brussels Airport is<br />

around 100km east<br />

of Kortrijk.<br />

Train<br />

Take a train to either<br />

Brussels Noord or<br />

Deinze, then take a<br />

connecting train to<br />

Kortrijk. Trains to<br />

Brussels Noord<br />

leave the airport<br />

at nine minutes past<br />

the hour, every hour,<br />

and take about an<br />

hour and 35<br />

minutes; trains to<br />

Deinze depart at<br />

50 minutes past<br />

the hour, every hour,<br />

and the journey<br />

takes just under<br />

two hours. A single<br />

ticket costs €18.<br />

Taxi<br />

A taxi to Kortrijk<br />

city centre from the<br />

airport will cost<br />

from €120 and take<br />

a good hour.<br />

Tourist info<br />

The offi ce is at<br />

Begijnhofpark,<br />

(0)56 27 78 40,<br />

kortrijk.be<br />

that a horseback army had been<br />

defeated by footmen. Multimedia<br />

museum Kortrijk 1302: Seven<br />

Centuries in One Day (Begijnhofpark)<br />

re-lives the drama.<br />

LATER With any luck, the weather<br />

may just be warm enough to enjoy a<br />

cocktail or two on the roof terrace of<br />

Punta K (Sint-Maartenskerkhof 8).<br />

It’s a sleek bar located above the<br />

Dell’ Anno restaurant, and is popular<br />

with well-heeled townsfolk.<br />

ALONG THE LEIE<br />

Around ten-minutes’ walk north<br />

of the central part of the town, the<br />

River Leie branches to form a citycentre<br />

islet known as Buda Island.<br />

It’s a peaceful, quietly up-andcoming<br />

neighbourhood which<br />

is now being touted as a hub of<br />

innovation and creativity, with<br />

the converted textile factory<br />

known as Budafabriek at its heart.<br />

SLEEP All aboard Ahoi (Handelskaai 1,<br />

(0)56 22 91 70, ahoi.be, rooms from<br />

€62), a charming converted barge<br />

moored on the river, right in the centre<br />

of Kortrijk, close to the Grote Markt.<br />

Its small, simple rooms have capsule<br />

The splendid City<br />

Hall dominates the<br />

ancient Grote Markt<br />

en-suite bathrooms, and a delicious<br />

organic breakfast is served in the bar.<br />

EAT The atmospheric t’Mouterijtje<br />

(Kapucijnenstraat 25A, (0)56 20 14 14)<br />

serves up a predominantly fish-focused<br />

menu of scallops, prawns and homemade<br />

shrimp croquettes beneath an<br />

old, brick-vaulted ceiling. A great place<br />

for a lively lunch.<br />

CULTURE Definitely worth a detour<br />

is the charming Broelmuseum<br />

(Broelkaai 6), which occupies a<br />

creaky 18th-century waterside<br />

mansion and displays an interesting<br />

collection of art produced by locals.<br />

Look out, too, for Brussels-born<br />

artist Constantin Meunier’s haunting<br />

Begrafenis van een Trappist (‘The<br />

Burial of a Trappist Monk’).<br />

SHOP If you’re looking for an<br />

unusual edible gift, make your way to<br />

Kortrijks Chocoladehuis (Leiestraat<br />

35). It sells begijntjes – nun-shaped<br />

chocolates – in honour of the town’s<br />

ancient begijnhof, where pious women<br />

once lived.<br />

TIP Pick up a Degustatiepas<br />

(‘Tasting Ticket’) from the tourist<br />

office. It costs €9 and buys you an<br />

aperitif, coffee and sweet treat to<br />

keep you going as you explore.<br />

TO ADVERTISE HERE contact<br />

Svetlana Sosnina svetlana.sosnina@ink-global.com<br />

tel. +44 (0)207 613 8797, +32 (0)2 808 1576<br />

ALAMY

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