march-2013
march-2013
march-2013
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u u bcn txl bud edi gva ncl osl tlv vce vno<br />
kortrijk<br />
belgium<br />
10,438,353 +32 6°C<br />
Euro (EUR)<br />
Emma Thomson<br />
THIS INNOVATIVE TOWN ON THE RIVER LEIE<br />
OFFERS A GENTLER PACE OF LIFE<br />
GROTE MARKT<br />
Dotted with cafés and restaurants,<br />
the city’s central square is presided<br />
over by a sturdy red-brick belfry –<br />
all that remains of the once-great<br />
13th-century cloth hall destroyed<br />
in World War II.<br />
SLEEP The stylish B&B Dharma<br />
(Groeningestraat 18, (0)56 29 36 56,<br />
bedandbreakfast-dharma.be,<br />
rooms from €80) has three beautiful<br />
rooms, decked out in calming colours<br />
and featuring interesting objets d’art.<br />
Note it’s cash only.<br />
EAT Nata (Grote Markt 4, (0)56 20<br />
12 20) is an upmarket brasserie that<br />
occasionally serves local speciality<br />
Kortrijkse bil (smoked veal). To sate<br />
a sweet tooth, Ridder & Hove<br />
(Voorstraat 7, (0)56 22 44 42) is<br />
the best place in town to try kalletaart<br />
– apple cake flavoured with marzipan<br />
and Calvados.<br />
CULTURE The course of Belgian<br />
history was changed forever on the<br />
outskirts of Kortrijk in July 1302, when<br />
Flemish foot soldiers went head to head<br />
with a cavalry of French knights – and<br />
won. Known as the Battle of the Golden<br />
Spurs, it was the first time in history<br />
INFO<br />
Brussels Airport is<br />
around 100km east<br />
of Kortrijk.<br />
Train<br />
Take a train to either<br />
Brussels Noord or<br />
Deinze, then take a<br />
connecting train to<br />
Kortrijk. Trains to<br />
Brussels Noord<br />
leave the airport<br />
at nine minutes past<br />
the hour, every hour,<br />
and take about an<br />
hour and 35<br />
minutes; trains to<br />
Deinze depart at<br />
50 minutes past<br />
the hour, every hour,<br />
and the journey<br />
takes just under<br />
two hours. A single<br />
ticket costs €18.<br />
Taxi<br />
A taxi to Kortrijk<br />
city centre from the<br />
airport will cost<br />
from €120 and take<br />
a good hour.<br />
Tourist info<br />
The offi ce is at<br />
Begijnhofpark,<br />
(0)56 27 78 40,<br />
kortrijk.be<br />
that a horseback army had been<br />
defeated by footmen. Multimedia<br />
museum Kortrijk 1302: Seven<br />
Centuries in One Day (Begijnhofpark)<br />
re-lives the drama.<br />
LATER With any luck, the weather<br />
may just be warm enough to enjoy a<br />
cocktail or two on the roof terrace of<br />
Punta K (Sint-Maartenskerkhof 8).<br />
It’s a sleek bar located above the<br />
Dell’ Anno restaurant, and is popular<br />
with well-heeled townsfolk.<br />
ALONG THE LEIE<br />
Around ten-minutes’ walk north<br />
of the central part of the town, the<br />
River Leie branches to form a citycentre<br />
islet known as Buda Island.<br />
It’s a peaceful, quietly up-andcoming<br />
neighbourhood which<br />
is now being touted as a hub of<br />
innovation and creativity, with<br />
the converted textile factory<br />
known as Budafabriek at its heart.<br />
SLEEP All aboard Ahoi (Handelskaai 1,<br />
(0)56 22 91 70, ahoi.be, rooms from<br />
€62), a charming converted barge<br />
moored on the river, right in the centre<br />
of Kortrijk, close to the Grote Markt.<br />
Its small, simple rooms have capsule<br />
The splendid City<br />
Hall dominates the<br />
ancient Grote Markt<br />
en-suite bathrooms, and a delicious<br />
organic breakfast is served in the bar.<br />
EAT The atmospheric t’Mouterijtje<br />
(Kapucijnenstraat 25A, (0)56 20 14 14)<br />
serves up a predominantly fish-focused<br />
menu of scallops, prawns and homemade<br />
shrimp croquettes beneath an<br />
old, brick-vaulted ceiling. A great place<br />
for a lively lunch.<br />
CULTURE Definitely worth a detour<br />
is the charming Broelmuseum<br />
(Broelkaai 6), which occupies a<br />
creaky 18th-century waterside<br />
mansion and displays an interesting<br />
collection of art produced by locals.<br />
Look out, too, for Brussels-born<br />
artist Constantin Meunier’s haunting<br />
Begrafenis van een Trappist (‘The<br />
Burial of a Trappist Monk’).<br />
SHOP If you’re looking for an<br />
unusual edible gift, make your way to<br />
Kortrijks Chocoladehuis (Leiestraat<br />
35). It sells begijntjes – nun-shaped<br />
chocolates – in honour of the town’s<br />
ancient begijnhof, where pious women<br />
once lived.<br />
TIP Pick up a Degustatiepas<br />
(‘Tasting Ticket’) from the tourist<br />
office. It costs €9 and buys you an<br />
aperitif, coffee and sweet treat to<br />
keep you going as you explore.<br />
TO ADVERTISE HERE contact<br />
Svetlana Sosnina svetlana.sosnina@ink-global.com<br />
tel. +44 (0)207 613 8797, +32 (0)2 808 1576<br />
ALAMY