march-2013

u bcn txl bud edi gva ncl osl tlv vce vno
TEL AVIV
israel
7,933,200 +972 15°C
New Israeli Shekel (nis)
daily
Leigh Cuen
the city that never sleeps makes a perfect
spring break for shopping and streetlife
JAFFA
This beautiful, centuries-old
port offers a stroll through time,
from its ancient remains and
thriving outdoor shuk (market)
to its style-conscious boutiques
and burgeoning art scene.
SLEEP Directly across from the Old
Jaffa shuk sits the inexpensive Old
Jaffa Hostel & Guesthouse (13 Amiad
Street, (0)3 682 2370, telaviv-hostel.
com, doubles from €50/NIS250).
From the rooftop deck, guests can
enjoy a view of Jaffa’s iconic clock
tower and the Mediterranean Sea.
EAT A local fixture since 1966, founded
by a family of the same name, Abu
Hassan (1 Dolphin Street, (0)3 682
0387) is renowned for its hummus.
There are a couple of sister outposts
these days, but the original Dolphin
Street venue still makes just one giant
batch of hummus per day, from the
family’s coveted secret recipe.
SHOP Tel Aviv-Yafo Tourism (see
info, right) runs various free walking
tours, including a Wednesday-morning
visit to Old Jaffa and the fleamarket
(the Shuk Ha Pishpishim) – a labyrinth
of stalls selling second-hand goods,
trinkets, oriental rugs, junk, jewellery
and Judaica.
TIP Haggling is elevated to an art form
in the fleamarket; feel free to offer your
own price and not agree to the first,
second, or sometimes even third price
INFO
Ben Gurion Airport
(TLV) is 15km
south east of
Tel Aviv.
Train
The train station
is on level S of the
Landside Building,
next to the Greeters’
Hall. The train stops
at Ha’Hagana (10
minutes from the
airport), Ha’Shalom
(15 minutes) and
Savidor (20
minutes); a ticket
costs €3/NIS15.
Taxi
The taxi journey can
take anything from
20 minutes to an
hour, depending on
traffi c. Services are
regulated, and the
fare is €27.50/
NIS140 to €31.50/
NIS160.
Tourist info
The main offi ce is
at 46 Herbert
Samuel Promenade,
(0)3 516 6188,
visit-tlv.com
offered. A skilled shopper can come
away from the shuk with quite a bit
of booty, including keepsakes that
sell for three or four times the price
in Jerusalem’s tourist havens.
FLORENTIN
Covered with street art, this
downtown neighbourhood in Tel
Aviv is often compared to SoHo
and the Lower East Side of New
York. At night, it’s bursting with
music, wine and colour.
CULTURE Multilingual local Guy
Sharett (streetwisehebrew.com)
offers guided tours exploring Tel Aviv’s
spice market and street art. Whether
or not you book a tour, keep your
eyes open around Florentin, with
its streetside stencils, graffiti,
murals and tags.
LATER Intimate and unpretentious,
Stern1 Bar (1 Stern Street) is a
favourite with Israeli celebrities. It
has an extensive selection of beers,
including some local brews. For music,
squeeze into Levontin 7 (7 Levontin
Street), a cosy venue that often hosts
new artists from the underground
Israeli jazz scene.
OLD NORTH & THE PORT
Between the sea and the Yarkon
River lies Tel Aviv’s Old North,
a smart neighbourhood full of
boutiques and cafés. It ends
Sip a seriously rich hot
chocolate at Max Brenner
at the port, which teems with
life both day and night.
SLEEP Unwind at the aptly named
Shalom Hotel & Relax (216 Hayarkon
Street, (0)3 762 5400, atlas.co.il,
rooms from €164/823NIS). Its 51
rooms have chic, beachhouse-style
décor, while the rooftop deck offers
breathtaking ocean views and a jacuzzi.
EAT Israeli chocolatier Max Brenner
(Yarkon Estuary, (0)3 544 5480) has
three chocolate shops and cafés in Tel
Aviv; head to this one to sample the
superb hot chocolate. Shila (182 Ben
Yehuda Street, (0)57 943 9018) is a
clamorous, much-loved seafood
restaurant, whose menu runs from
delicate fish carpaccio to freshly grilled
calamari; if you’re on a budget, check
out the lunchtime deals.
SHOP Dizengoff Street is full of
international and Israeli fashion
boutiques – and a cluster of famous
wedding dress designers. Yosef Peretz
(no. 213) is a master of surreal prints,
fluid silhouettes and edgy glamour,
while Cala (no. 184) sells rails of vintage
dresses alongside its own playful
designs. For distinctive, beautifully
made women’s shoes and boots, drop
by Shani Bar (no. 151).
TIP A great way to get around Tel Aviv
is by renting a set of wheels from the
friendly Wheel Bee Bike Rental
(wheelbeetlv.com), which also has
electric, tandem and children’s bikes.
82 march 2013
FLY TO tel aviv daily. brusselsairlines.com