march-2013

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geneva
switzerland
7,925,517 +41 6°C
swiss franc (chf)
seven times daily
Michela Mantani
clear, Cloudless views over Lake Léman
mark the beginning of spring
BASTIONS &
PLACE NEUVE
By the Parc des Bastions, the cool
and cultured Neuve district attracts
an interesting crowd.
SLEEP A short walk from Bastions, Les
Armures Hotel (1 rue Puits-St-Pierre,
(0)22 310 91 72, hotel-les-armures.ch,
rooms from €300/360CHF) is the
residence of choice for visiting
statesmen and international stars.
The décor melds 17th-century panelled
ceilings and frescos with understated
modern luxury.
EAT Little Buddha (10 rue Jean-
François Bartholoni, (0)22 307 10 00)
serves up French-infused Asian dishes
such as truffle-laced beef teriyaki or
coquilles Saint-Jacques with yuzu,
and has an opulent lounge bar. In
spring, a candlelit dinner is served on
the leafy terrace. Alternatively, the
art deco Café du Parc des Bastions
(1 Promenade des Bastions, (0)22
310 86 66) overlooks the park’s giant
chessboards; it’s a charming spot,
though service can be slow.
CULTURE The Fascinating Lebanon
exhibition at the Musée Rath (Place
Neuve) features all manner of
INFO
Geneva
International Airport
is 4km north west
of the city centre.
Train
From the airport to
the city centre takes
six minutes by train:
it’s free if you’ve just
fl own in, but you’ll
need to pick up a
Tout Genève pass,
which you can also
use on buses. The
passes are available
from dispensing
machines before
customs in the
baggage claim area.
Bus
Buses nos. 5 and
10 will take you
to the city centre
Genève-Cornavin
railway station in 10
minutes and across
the river in about 15.
Fares are around
€2.50/CHF3.
Taxi
The journey into the
city centre takes
about 15 minutes
and costs between
€25-37/CHF30-37.
Tourist info
The Geneva Tourist
Offi ce is at Rue du
Mont-Blanc 18,
(0)22 909 70 70,
geneve-tourisme.ch
archaeological finds (until 31 March),
while experimental theatre and world
cinema fill the cultural agenda at the
Maison des Arts du Grütli (16 rue
du Général-Dufour).
SHOP Founded in 1839, Brachard
& Cie (10 rue de la Corraterie) stocks
Swiss paper-cut cards, Caran d’Ache
art supplies and exquisite stationery.
For great deals on cool footwear brands
(Bronx, Blink, Camper and the like),
try the nearby Pompes Funèbres
(17 rue de la Corraterie).
LATER Relax in a leather club chair
while sampling the confident cocktail
list and tapas menu at the Salons de
Théophile (13 rue de la Cité).
RIVE DROITE
The Rive Droite (Right Bank)
commands iconic views of
Mont Blanc and the famous
Jet d’Eau fountain.
SLEEP A boutique hotel with plenty of
rustic charm, Hotel Edelweiss (2 Place
de la Navigation, (0)22 544 51 51,
manotel.com/edelweiss, rooms from
€130/160CHF) is an alpine hideaway
in the heart of the city, with Swiss Arolla
Pine beds and hand-painted furniture.
free APP download
Available from iTunes
Little Buddha;
where French and
Asian cuisine meet
EAT Chef Dominique Gauthier’s awardwinning
fare sets the bar for fine dining
at Le Chat Botté (13 quai du Mont
Blanc, (0)22 716 69 20), with a
signature dish of roasted monkfish
with clams and candied fennel. For an
exclusive culinary experience, reserve
the table du chef in the kitchen. Perched
on the pier of the city’s 1930s lake
baths, La Buvette des Bains des
Pâquis (30 quai du Mont Blanc, (0)22
738 16 16) is favoured by locals for a
late breakfast of bircher muesli or
leisurely lunch-with-a-view; come the
evening, it serves a celebrated fondue
(booking essential). Alternatively, the
shaded terrace of the Cottage Café
(7 Adhémar-Fabri, (0)22 731 60 16) is
an oasis of calm to savour home-made
ginger juice and fondant au chocolat
noir with thyme ice cream.
CULTURE Ensconced in the Parc de
la Perle du Lac, the Musée d’Histoire
des Sciences (128 rue de Lausanne)
houses a collection of antique scientific
instruments on the first floor of the
neo-classical Villa Bartholoni.
TIP The yellow Mouettes Genevoises
shuttle boats (mouettesgenevoises.ch)
provide swift transportation and striking
views of the city for €1.60/2CHF.