140 | DESTINATION GUIDES More free monthly guides available at traveller.easyJet.com Lille France DIALLING CODE +33 CURRENCY € FLY FROM Nice, Toulouse FROM THE AIRPORT TAXI Prebook your taxi at easyJet.com. A local taxi costs €20. The Navette bus to the city centre. Tickets: €7. Visit the Europcar desk for special easyJet rates. BON APPETIT UP TO €30 L’Auberge du Temps Jadis (286 Bis Rue Solférino, tel: 03 2052 5209) With an outdoor terrace, this typical estaminet has good old-fashioned hearty local and regional specialities on the menu at very reasonable prices. EXCLUSIVE Le Sébastopol (1 Place Sébastopol, tel: 03 205 7050) In this top Michelin-starred restaurant, maitre chef Jean-Luc Germond provides gastronomic dishes in the lovely artdeco dining room. The menus, from seafood to innovative fusion cuisine, are as wide ranging as the wine list, which has more than 500 choices from top international vineyards available from its large cellar. AFTER DARK LOW KEY Au Point Central (1 Bis Place des Patiniers, tel: 03 2051 2978) This friendly bar with a wide terrace in the heart of the city is perfect for that early-evening drink before heading out on the town. LATE & LIVELY Le Detour (61 Rue de Fontenoy, tel: 03 2053 4806) A vibrant bar with diff erent live bands playing rock, jazz, and much more most weekends. Open until late, it’s popular with the many students living in the city. THIS MONTH SEE The Palais des Beaux-Arts of Lille, one of France’s fi rst museums, has excellent collections of paintings, ceramics, and tapestries from the Middle Ages to the 20th century (Place de la République, tel: 03 2006 7800). NO WAY! The Immelmann turn was perfected in the skies above Lille by World War I German Flying ace Max Immelmann, who brought down so many Allied planes that he was nicknamed “the Eagle of Lille”. Nick Haslam Lisbon Portugal DIALLING CODE +351 CURRENCY € FLY FROM Amsterdam, Asturias, Barcelona, Basel-Mulhouse, Berlin, Bordeaux, Bristol, Copenhagen, Edinburgh, Geneva, Liverpool, London (LGW, LTN), Lyon, Madeira, Madrid, Milan (MXP), Paris (CDG), Rome, Toulouse, Venice FROM THE AIRPORT TAXI Pre-book your taxi at easyJet.com. A local taxi costs €25. The Aerobus leaves every 20 minutes. Tickets: €3.50. Visit the Europcar desk for special easyJet rates. BON APPETIT UP TO €15 Restaurante Outeiral (53 Rua Saraiva de Carvalho, Campo de Ourique, tel: 21 397 1916) Friendly waiter Pedro speaks English and will guide you through the incredibly cheap and delicious specials at this lively neighbourhood eatery. UP TO €30 Pano de Boca (Rua Ramalho do Ortigão, tel: 21 3384 0030) Something of a rarity in Lisbon, this German restaurant attached to a theatre serves a mix of German staples as well as more adventurous fare. Spacious and modern with a hint of drama. UP TO €50 Bistro 100 Maneiras (9 Largo da Trindade) This latest venture by Yugoslav chef Llubomir Stanisic is on the fringes of the Bairro Alto and is open till 2am. Its adventurous menu off ers both Ottoman specialities and lots of Portuguese and Mediterranean fare. A lively place to eat and drink either before or after plunging into the delights of the surrounding district. EXCLUSIVE Restaurante Cipriani (Olissippo Lapa Palace, 4 Rua do Pau de Bandeira, tel: 21 394 9494) This elegant dining room, housed in a 19th-century palace set amid romantic ATLIS AVENIDA HOTEL ★ ★ ★ ★ ★ Five-star luxury in the Portuguese capital, facing the iconic São Jorge Castle. This boutique hotel has 70 luxurious rooms. From €160, book at hotels.easyJet.com. gardens, serves a luxurious menu that’s predominantly Italian but usually includes a Portuguese dish or two. AFTER DARK LOW KEY A Brasileira (120 Rua Garrett, Chiado, tel: 21 346 9541) Once the haunt of artists and intellectuals, this is the place to have your photo taken with the statue of modernist poet Fernando Pessoa as you sip your drink, listen to the buskers and watch life pass by. LIVE MUSIC Hennessy’s (32–38 Rua Cais do Sodré) Recently taken over and revamped by its new Irish owner, this bar often has live music in the evenings from Tuesdays to Saturdays. There’s also bar food and, of course, draught Guinness. LATE & LIVELY Discoteca Trumps (104B Rua da Imprensa Nacional, tel: 21 397 1059) This hetero-friendly gay club has long been one of Lisbon’s most popular. The club attracts a mix of age groups and sexual orientations. THIS MONTH SHOP If your doll’s poorly or teddy’s arm is hanging off , or indeed if you require some tiny furniture or a miniature tea set, this is the place for you. The Doll’s Hospital was founded in 1830 and continues FILLER ADVERT RIDE WITH STYLE ! WWW.LAPIERREBIKES.COM to minister to the needs of our inanimate friends. A gem (7 Praça da Figueira). SEE Canadian band Simple Plan will be doing their fi rst Lisbon gig at the Coliseum on 11 March (tel: 21 324 0580) and Puccini’s Madama Butterfl y will be at the São Carlos Opera House from 13–25 March (tel: 21 325 3045). GO The Bairro Alto is a must. An aristocratic neighbourhood dating mostly from the 17th century, its warren of streets is now home to one of Europe’s liveliest centres of nightlife. Countless bars, restaurants, galleries and designer shops rub shoulders with old-style grocers. ESCAPE The former royal Palace of Queluz is a baroque gem surprisingly situated in a rather unlovely suburb. Protected by its formal gardens it’s a place to catch the 18th-century aristocratic feeling of Lisbon. The old kitchen has been converted into a classy restaurant. NO WAY! Henry Fielding, author of Tom Jones, came to Lisbon in 1754 for his health but the city had the opposite eff ect and he died within a few months. He set down his impressions in his Journal of a Voyage to Lisbon. Jonathan Weightman
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