march-2012

ROSIE BIRKETT MIKE PINCHES
THESECRETNORTH
THANKS TO A WEALTH OF PASSIONATE PRODUCERS AND REVOLUTIONARY
RESTAURATEURS, THE NORTH OF ENGLAND IS IN THE MIDST OF A CULINARY
EXPLOSION. WE WENT ON A ROAD TRIP TO SAMPLE THINGS FIRST-HAND...
A DARK MACARON of squid ink is placed before
me. It’s followed by an immaculate plate of silky,
almost translucent, raw scallops and toasted seeds,
topped with a snowdrift of smoked scallop powder.
The sommelier fi lls our glasses with buttery white
Burgundy before laying down freshly baked bread
and whipped, creamy, local butter. All the hallmarks
of a Michelin-starred restaurant are here – deft
service, fi ne wines, exciting cooking and a sense of
occasion. The only surprise is, we’re nowhere near any
of Europe’s gastronomic capitals. In fact, I’m enjoying
this fi ne-dining experience in far-fl ung Cumbria.
I’m in L’Enclume (lenclume.co.uk), the restaurant of
Michelin-starred chef Simon Rogan in the medieval
village of Cartmel. While this may be in one of
England’s most remote counties – an hour and a half’s
drive north of Manchester – it hasn’t prevented Rogan
from winning international acclaim for his technically
brilliant, inherently Cumbrian cuisine.
When people talk of the UK’s foodie scene, they’re
often referring to London, but a quiet culinary
renaissance has also been taking place in the northern
counties of Cumbria, Lancashire and North Yorkshire.
Driven by fabulous local produce – from ice cream
to livestock, wonderful cheeses to award-winning
preserves, as well as a grandstanding band of top
Main picture, the dishes
served at L’Enclume in
the Lake District have
helped put northern
England on the foodie
map; left, on the road
to Clitheroe