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PHOTOS © 4CORNERS FEATURES | ANDALUSIA 62 | TRAVELLER UNDER THE IN 1962, PENELOPE CHETWODE, WIFE OF THE POET JOHN BETJEMAN, RODE INTO THE WILDS OF ANDALUSIA AND PENNED A BOOK ABOUT HER ADVENTURE. FIFTY YEARS ON, HER DAUGHTER, CANDIDA LYCETT GREEN, RECALLS THE TRIP MY MOTHER WAS 51 when she took off for Spain. And looking back now, she was miles ahead of her time. She thought nothing of setting off alone on a horse she hardly knew, into the unfamiliar wilds of a foreign country she had never been to. The mule tracks she rode along were unmarked on any maps and she navigated by the Sierra mountains, the dry riverbeds and ravines, or by asking for directions from a shepherd if she was lucky enough to meet one. She travelled around 160km, from Illora to Cazorla, and wandered back a different way. Her book Two Middle-aged Ladies in Andalusia (the middle-aged ladies being the horse and herself) is a moving testament to that indomitable spirit, and her open-heartedness, trusting nature and disarmingly straightforward approach are everywhere in her account of this odyssey through a remote, inexorably beautiful and often unforgiving landscape. Her love of travelling by horse had always been with her (much of my childhood was spent riding in her wake across the Berkshire Downs), but it was only when my brother and I had fi nally fl own the nest that she felt justifi ed in leaving home for any length of time. My father, the poet John Betjeman, was already famous but, independent to the last, my mum never lived in his shadow nor basked in his refl ected glory. If she decided to learn Spanish in her fi fties, she had the determination to carry it through. She chose to be without a car or telephone for the last 20 years of her life, and used her horse and cart to drive down into town to do her shopping. Under her address, her writing paper read, “No telephone, thank God”. She attended regular lectures on nuclear physics and philosophy, read Sanskrit, wrote articles on Indian temples, was a legendary cook, and gave the author H G Wells such a fascinating account of the history and techniques of Caesarean birth that he was prompted to say, “‘If I were married to that girl, I would throw away my encyclopaedia”. Having been brought up in a grand house with butlers, cooks and grooms doing everything for her (her father was Commander-in-Chief of the British Army in India), she spent the rest of her life trying to get back to a simple way of life: the Spain of 50 years ago provided everything she craved. The author George Borrow’s account of his travels through Spain was certainly one of her inspirations and she had visions of fi nding a beautiful Arabian stallion like his on which to reach the remote places
This page, Penelope Chetwode on La Marquesa during her ride through Andalusia in 1962; opposite page, bottom left, Cazorla, which marked the turning-around point of the trek
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