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Tasting Kitchen

Welcome to Tasting Kitchen. Season’s Greetings – or should I say Seasonings Greetings! This holiday TK issue is full of spices and flavorings. We talk to four talented and ambitious chefs about the flavor profile – or Flavor DNA – of dishes from India, Sichuan, Vietnam and the Isaan region of Thailand. Think cardamom, black salt and saffron, red peppercorns, red chilies and green chilies, dill, Kaffir lime, lemongrass, coriander, galangal and turmeric. We take a look at spices in history, and how even back in the Middle Ages savvy marketers knew the value of a good story. Spice merchants claimed that birds used cinnamon sticks to make giant nests in the cliffs above beaches in India, which “cinnamon hunters” then plotted to obtain. Today India is still associated with the world’s best spices. In this issue, for our first Tasting Destinations feature, TK’s Director of Photography David Hartung and Senior Writer Lucy Morgan traveled to Old Delhi to visit the world’s largest spice market and to New Delhi to visit one of the world’s top restaurants for modern Indian cuisine. One of our featured wines is the peppery Austrian Grüner Veltliner. We also talk to a New Zealand Wine Master about what makes great wine great, and to a leading French Champagne Chef de Cave about the value of patience and restraint. There are also some crabs running loose in the issue. A master chef in Macau shares his recipe for Quinoa Lobster Salad while five more from Hong Kong and Singapore share their favorite crab dishes and culinary musings. Happy Holidays,

Welcome to Tasting Kitchen.
Season’s Greetings – or should I say
Seasonings Greetings!
This holiday TK issue is full of spices and
flavorings.
We talk to four talented and ambitious
chefs about the flavor profile – or Flavor DNA
– of dishes from India, Sichuan, Vietnam and
the Isaan region of Thailand. Think cardamom,
black salt and saffron, red peppercorns, red
chilies and green chilies, dill, Kaffir lime,
lemongrass, coriander, galangal and turmeric.
We take a look at spices in history, and
how even back in the Middle Ages savvy marketers knew the value of a good story.
Spice merchants claimed that birds used cinnamon sticks to make giant nests in the
cliffs above beaches in India, which “cinnamon hunters” then plotted to obtain.
Today India is still associated with the world’s best spices. In this issue, for
our first Tasting Destinations feature, TK’s Director of Photography David Hartung
and Senior Writer Lucy Morgan traveled to Old Delhi to visit the world’s largest
spice market and to New Delhi to visit one of the world’s top restaurants for modern
Indian cuisine.
One of our featured wines is the peppery Austrian Grüner Veltliner. We also
talk to a New Zealand Wine Master about what makes great wine great, and to a
leading French Champagne Chef de Cave about the value of patience and restraint.
There are also some crabs running loose in the issue. A master chef in Macau
shares his recipe for Quinoa Lobster Salad while five more from Hong Kong and
Singapore share their favorite crab dishes and culinary musings.
Happy Holidays,

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feature<br />

顶 级 牛 排 快 意 滋 味<br />

primal pleasure<br />

At the Grand Lisboa Hotel Macau, The <strong>Kitchen</strong><br />

is the place to go for a prime time steak fix.<br />

128<br />

Grade 5 Tomahawk Steak from Australia<br />

澳 洲 五 级 Tomahawk 牛 扒<br />

| TK | flavor dna<br />

FOR THE DEDICATED CARNIVORE, there’s<br />

nothing quite like the primal pleasure provoked<br />

by the sight of a big fat juicy steak. At<br />

The <strong>Kitchen</strong>, on the third floor of the Grand<br />

Lisboa Hotel Macau, diners enjoy their meat<br />

deluxe style: only the best of the best steaks<br />

are on offer, from USDA prime to Australian<br />

wagyu to the highest grade cuts of Japanese<br />

Kagoshima beef.<br />

Great cuts of meat are just the beginning.<br />

At The <strong>Kitchen</strong>, the man behind the meat<br />

is Chef Wong Chi Leong. After twenty-one<br />

years in the business, he knows everything<br />

there is to know about cooking the perfect<br />

steak. “Temperature control is the most<br />

important thing to worry about when you<br />

cook a steak,” he says. “The oven should be<br />

red hot and the steak should be cold when<br />

it hits the grill.”<br />

Chef Wong mans two ovens in the<br />

restaurant’s open kitchen – a raging fire<br />

keeps one at the highest temperature while a<br />

smaller fire burns in the other. The steaks are<br />

quickly seared in the hot oven to secure the<br />

对 无 肉 不 欢 的 人 来 说 , 看 到 肥 美 多 汁 的 大<br />

块 牛 扒 , 足 以 挑 起 他 们 难 掩 的 兴 奋 热 情 。<br />

位 于 澳 门 新 葡 京 酒 店 三 楼 的 「 大 厨 」 餐 厅 ,<br />

精 选 出 USDA 特 级 澳 洲 和 牛 与 日 本 鹿 儿 岛<br />

和 牛 等 顶 级 肉 品 , 吸 引 饕 客 来 场 奢 华 的 牛<br />

扒 飨 宴 。<br />

选 用 上 好 牛 肉 只 是 个 开 始 , 已 从 事 餐 饮<br />

业 21 年 的 「 大 厨 」 主 厨 黄 志 亮 更 清 楚 如 何<br />

才 能 烤 制 出 完 美 牛 扒 。 他 说 :「 烤 牛 扒 最 重<br />

要 是 控 制 温 度 , 烤 箱 要 热 得 发 烫 , 而 牛 扒<br />

放 上 烤 架 时 应 该 是 冷 的 。」<br />

在 「 大 厨 」 的 开 放 式 厨 房 里 , 黄 主 厨 一<br />

人 照 顾 两 台 烤 炉 , 其 中 一 台 火 力 猛 烈 , 温<br />

度 极 高 , 而 另 一 台 则 维 持 小 火 。 先 用 大 火<br />

烤 炉 高 温 封 锁 牛 扒 肉 汁 , 接 着 再 以 小 火 烤<br />

炉 继 续 烤 到 客 人 指 定 的 熟 度 。<br />

「 大 厨 」 所 选 肉 品 都 由 酒 店 西 餐 行 政 总<br />

厨 林 国 新 从 市 场 或 向 供 应 商 亲 自 挑 选 。 他<br />

说 :「 健 康 饲 养 的 牛 只 , 油 花 呈 现 漂 亮 的 大<br />

理 石 分 布 , 口 感 非 常 软 嫩 。 要 挑 最 好 的 牛 肉 ,<br />

我 从 不 假 手 他 人 。」<br />

「 大 厨 」 的 澳 洲 Tomahawk 牛 扒 分 量 惊<br />

人 , 肉 香 十 足 , 滋 味 丰 腴 浓 郁 , 对 喜 欢 吃<br />

肉 的 食 客 来 说 是 一 道 梦 幻 餐 点 , 或 许 两 人

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