Tasting Kitchen
Welcome to Tasting Kitchen. Season’s Greetings – or should I say Seasonings Greetings! This holiday TK issue is full of spices and flavorings. We talk to four talented and ambitious chefs about the flavor profile – or Flavor DNA – of dishes from India, Sichuan, Vietnam and the Isaan region of Thailand. Think cardamom, black salt and saffron, red peppercorns, red chilies and green chilies, dill, Kaffir lime, lemongrass, coriander, galangal and turmeric. We take a look at spices in history, and how even back in the Middle Ages savvy marketers knew the value of a good story. Spice merchants claimed that birds used cinnamon sticks to make giant nests in the cliffs above beaches in India, which “cinnamon hunters” then plotted to obtain. Today India is still associated with the world’s best spices. In this issue, for our first Tasting Destinations feature, TK’s Director of Photography David Hartung and Senior Writer Lucy Morgan traveled to Old Delhi to visit the world’s largest spice market and to New Delhi to visit one of the world’s top restaurants for modern Indian cuisine. One of our featured wines is the peppery Austrian Grüner Veltliner. We also talk to a New Zealand Wine Master about what makes great wine great, and to a leading French Champagne Chef de Cave about the value of patience and restraint. There are also some crabs running loose in the issue. A master chef in Macau shares his recipe for Quinoa Lobster Salad while five more from Hong Kong and Singapore share their favorite crab dishes and culinary musings. Happy Holidays,
Welcome to Tasting Kitchen.
Season’s Greetings – or should I say
Seasonings Greetings!
This holiday TK issue is full of spices and
flavorings.
We talk to four talented and ambitious
chefs about the flavor profile – or Flavor DNA
– of dishes from India, Sichuan, Vietnam and
the Isaan region of Thailand. Think cardamom,
black salt and saffron, red peppercorns, red
chilies and green chilies, dill, Kaffir lime,
lemongrass, coriander, galangal and turmeric.
We take a look at spices in history, and
how even back in the Middle Ages savvy marketers knew the value of a good story.
Spice merchants claimed that birds used cinnamon sticks to make giant nests in the
cliffs above beaches in India, which “cinnamon hunters” then plotted to obtain.
Today India is still associated with the world’s best spices. In this issue, for
our first Tasting Destinations feature, TK’s Director of Photography David Hartung
and Senior Writer Lucy Morgan traveled to Old Delhi to visit the world’s largest
spice market and to New Delhi to visit one of the world’s top restaurants for modern
Indian cuisine.
One of our featured wines is the peppery Austrian Grüner Veltliner. We also
talk to a New Zealand Wine Master about what makes great wine great, and to a
leading French Champagne Chef de Cave about the value of patience and restraint.
There are also some crabs running loose in the issue. A master chef in Macau
shares his recipe for Quinoa Lobster Salad while five more from Hong Kong and
Singapore share their favorite crab dishes and culinary musings.
Happy Holidays,
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sponsored feature<br />
EDMON LEONG<br />
FROM AS FAR BACK as the days of the Roman Empire, Italy has had a love affair<br />
with the diverse cured meats known as salumi. From prosciutto crudo and<br />
prosciutto cotto, to salame, mortadella, pancetta, and coppa, the centuries-old<br />
methods of curing meats are a delicious part of Italy’s ancient food heritage.<br />
Mostly made from pork, salumi can also be made from beef, lamb, and other<br />
meats. Some are salt-cured, smoked and air-dried, while others are preserved<br />
in fats or cooked into sausages and pates. SalumiAmo, an Italian initiative to<br />
celebrate, share and raise awareness of these specialty cured meats, is making<br />
its debut in Hong Kong and Macau from 15 November to 6 December 2013. At<br />
Master Classes and special tasting evenings, Italian Chef Fabio Ugoletti will<br />
present some of the finest cured meats and describe the traditional methods<br />
for making them. Guests can sample a variety of salumi at Aqua Spirit, Aqua<br />
Armani and GIANDO from 20-22 November; at DiVino, DiVino Patio and<br />
Spasso from 27-29 November; at Gaia, Joia and DOMANI Restaurant<br />
from 4-6 December, and at Aurora at Altira Macau from the 24-27 and 29<br />
November. Venue courtesy of GIANDO restaurant. § 说 起 意 大 利 对 腌 制<br />
肉 品 的 热 情 , 不 得 不 远 朔 到 罗 马 帝 国 时 期 , 这 些 历 经 世 代 更 替 淬 炼 创 造<br />
出 的 各 式 腌 肉 , 通 称 「salumi」( 萨 路 米 )。 不 论 是 巴 马 火 腿 、 熟 火 腿 、 萨<br />
拉 米 香 肠 、 摩 德 代 拉 香 肠 、 意 大 利 切 片 培 根 和 库 巴 式 风 干 火 腿 , 这 些 遵<br />
循 古 法 而 制 的 美 味 肉 品 , 是 意 大 利 最 珍 贵 的 饮 食 文 化 资 产 。 意 大 利 腌 肉<br />
最 常 使 用 猪 肉 , 有 时 也 用 牛 、 羊 或 者 其 他 肉 类 。 肉 品 制 法 很 多 种 , 像 是<br />
抹 上 盐 巴 腌 渍 、 烟 熏 风 干 、 浸 泡 在 油 中 , 或 碾 碎 成 泥 作 成 腊 肠 或 抹 酱 。<br />
首 届 SalumiAmo, 将 于 十 一 月 十 五 日 到 十 二 月 六 日 在 香 港 和 澳 门 首 度 隆<br />
重 登 场 , 除 了 赞 扬 、 分 享 意 大 利 美 食 , 更 借 此 机 会 让 更 多 人 认 识 这 些 美<br />
味 无 比 的 意 大 利 腌 肉 。 在 美 食 讲 座 与 品 评 会 上 , 主 厨 Fabio Ugoletti 将 准<br />
备 上 等 意 大 利 腌 肉 , 并 逐 步 解 说 制 作 腌 肉 的 独 特 秘 方 。 您 可 于 以 下 时 间<br />
与 地 点 亲 尝 各 式 美 味 的 意 大 利 腌 肉 :11 月 20 至 22 日 在 Aqua Spirit、Aqua<br />
Armani 和 GIANDO;11 月 27 至 29 日 在 DiVino, DiVino Patio 和 Spasso;<br />
12 月 4 至 6 日 在 Gaia, Joia 和 DOMANI;11 月 24 至 27 以 及 29 日 在 澳 门 新 濠<br />
锋 酒 店 奥 罗 拉 餐 厅 。<br />
PROSCIUTTO CRUDO<br />
Both prosciutto di San Daniele and<br />
prosciutto di Parma come from the rear<br />
thighs of local pigs. The legs are rubbed<br />
with salt and then washed, brushed,<br />
dried, and left to age for at least twelve<br />
months. During the aging process, they<br />
lose more than a quarter of their weight<br />
as the salt soaks up the moisture, giving<br />
the meat a strong, concentrated flavor.<br />
/ 圣 丹 尼 耶 尔 火 腿 和 巴 马 火 腿 皆 以 产 地<br />
命 名 , 取 自 当 地 养 殖 猪 只 的 后 腿 肉 , 抹<br />
以 盐 巴 使 其 入 味 , 再 冲 洗 、 刷 净 多 余 盐<br />
分 , 悬 挂 风 干 至 少 十 二 个 月 。 熟 成 过 程<br />
中 , 腿 肉 重 量 减 少 约 四 分 之 一 , 盐 分 充<br />
分 吸 附 油 脂 , 使 肉 片 散 发 出 浓 郁 香 气 。<br />
flavor dna | TK | 77
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