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Tasting Kitchen

Welcome to Tasting Kitchen. Season’s Greetings – or should I say Seasonings Greetings! This holiday TK issue is full of spices and flavorings. We talk to four talented and ambitious chefs about the flavor profile – or Flavor DNA – of dishes from India, Sichuan, Vietnam and the Isaan region of Thailand. Think cardamom, black salt and saffron, red peppercorns, red chilies and green chilies, dill, Kaffir lime, lemongrass, coriander, galangal and turmeric. We take a look at spices in history, and how even back in the Middle Ages savvy marketers knew the value of a good story. Spice merchants claimed that birds used cinnamon sticks to make giant nests in the cliffs above beaches in India, which “cinnamon hunters” then plotted to obtain. Today India is still associated with the world’s best spices. In this issue, for our first Tasting Destinations feature, TK’s Director of Photography David Hartung and Senior Writer Lucy Morgan traveled to Old Delhi to visit the world’s largest spice market and to New Delhi to visit one of the world’s top restaurants for modern Indian cuisine. One of our featured wines is the peppery Austrian Grüner Veltliner. We also talk to a New Zealand Wine Master about what makes great wine great, and to a leading French Champagne Chef de Cave about the value of patience and restraint. There are also some crabs running loose in the issue. A master chef in Macau shares his recipe for Quinoa Lobster Salad while five more from Hong Kong and Singapore share their favorite crab dishes and culinary musings. Happy Holidays,

Welcome to Tasting Kitchen.
Season’s Greetings – or should I say
Seasonings Greetings!
This holiday TK issue is full of spices and
flavorings.
We talk to four talented and ambitious
chefs about the flavor profile – or Flavor DNA
– of dishes from India, Sichuan, Vietnam and
the Isaan region of Thailand. Think cardamom,
black salt and saffron, red peppercorns, red
chilies and green chilies, dill, Kaffir lime,
lemongrass, coriander, galangal and turmeric.
We take a look at spices in history, and
how even back in the Middle Ages savvy marketers knew the value of a good story.
Spice merchants claimed that birds used cinnamon sticks to make giant nests in the
cliffs above beaches in India, which “cinnamon hunters” then plotted to obtain.
Today India is still associated with the world’s best spices. In this issue, for
our first Tasting Destinations feature, TK’s Director of Photography David Hartung
and Senior Writer Lucy Morgan traveled to Old Delhi to visit the world’s largest
spice market and to New Delhi to visit one of the world’s top restaurants for modern
Indian cuisine.
One of our featured wines is the peppery Austrian Grüner Veltliner. We also
talk to a New Zealand Wine Master about what makes great wine great, and to a
leading French Champagne Chef de Cave about the value of patience and restraint.
There are also some crabs running loose in the issue. A master chef in Macau
shares his recipe for Quinoa Lobster Salad while five more from Hong Kong and
Singapore share their favorite crab dishes and culinary musings.
Happy Holidays,

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feature<br />

Pizza with Caviar, Smoked Salmon and Cream Cheese<br />

鱼 子 酱 薄 饼 配 烟 三 文 鱼 及 忌 廉 芝 士<br />

juices, and then finished off and cooked to<br />

customers’ preferences over the smaller fire.<br />

All the meat served at The <strong>Kitchen</strong> has<br />

been personally selected by Grand Lisboa<br />

Hotel Macau’s Executive Chef of Western<br />

Cuisine, Chef Andy Lam. “Healthily-fed<br />

cattle produce lovely marbling of the fat<br />

which makes the beef much more tender,”<br />

he says. “I trust no one but myself to pick<br />

out the best cuts.”<br />

The <strong>Kitchen</strong>’s Australian Tomahawk<br />

is a dramatically large, bone-in steak with<br />

a big, rich flavor – a hungry meat eater’s<br />

dream, or maybe a dream for two. Cut from<br />

between the short rib and the rib eye, the<br />

38-oz steak is not found in many restaurants.<br />

“Not many suppliers have the ability or the<br />

equipment to make this cut of meat so it’s<br />

pretty unique,” says Chef Andy. “It can be<br />

difficult to cook because of its size and the<br />

bone,” adds Chef Wong.<br />

For those taking a steak break, The<br />

<strong>Kitchen</strong>’s deluxe sashimi platter is made<br />

from the freshest seasonal seafood,<br />

including blue fin tuna, lobster, yellowtail,<br />

striped jack, botan shrimp and sea urchin.<br />

A new range of pizzas is also on offer.<br />

One decadent option is topped with<br />

smoked salmon, cream cheese and caviar.<br />

For Chef Wong, though, it’s all about the<br />

steaks. To get the most out of them, Wong<br />

recommends just a smattering of Japanese<br />

sea salt and ground white pepper to draw out<br />

the natural flavors of the steaks. “We want<br />

to respect the original flavors and that’s what<br />

we want our customers to taste,” he says.<br />

“Too much seasoning will destroy the flavor<br />

of the beef.”<br />

Chef Wong recommends letting a steak<br />

rest for about three minutes before serving,<br />

so the juices that have been drawn to the<br />

surface can relax back into the meat. Then all<br />

that’s left to do is tuck in. “Seeing customers<br />

enjoying my food makes me so happy.”<br />

合 吃 也 绰 绰 有 余 。 牛 肉 取 自 牛 小 排 及 肋 眼<br />

之 间 的 部 位 , 重 达 38 盎 司 , 在 一 般 餐 厅 并<br />

不 多 见 。 林 国 新 解 释 :「 这 道 牛 扒 非 常 特 别 ,<br />

因 为 有 能 力 或 设 备 供 应 的 餐 厅 不 多 , 而 且<br />

分 量 多 又 带 骨 , 烤 起 来 不 容 易 。 而 足 量 带<br />

骨 的 牛 扒 也 增 添 了 菜 式 的 烹 煮 难 度 。」<br />

除 了 牛 扒 ,「 大 厨 」 也 供 应 各 式 豪 华 刺<br />

身 , 使 用 最 新 鲜 的 食 材 , 包 括 蓝 鳍 金 枪 鱼 、<br />

龙 虾 、 油 甘 鱼 、 缟 、 牡 丹 虾 、 北 紫 海 胆<br />

等 节 令 海 鲜 。 此 外 更 新 推 出 鱼 子 酱 薄 饼 ,<br />

饼 皮 上 撒 满 烟 三 文 鱼 , 忌 廉 芝 士 和 鱼 子 酱 ,<br />

滋 味 非 常 。<br />

但 对 黄 主 厨 来 说 , 牛 扒 还 是 重 头 戏 。 要<br />

享 受 牛 扒 最 鲜 美 的 滋 味 , 他 建 议 只 要 撒 上<br />

日 本 海 盐 并 磨 些 白 胡 椒 , 就 能 引 出 牛 肉 的<br />

天 然 风 味 。 他 说 :「 我 们 希 望 保 留 牛 肉 原 味 ,<br />

也 希 望 客 人 能 尝 到 原 汁 原 味 。 调 味 过 度 会<br />

破 坏 牛 肉 的 风 味 。」<br />

主 厨 建 议 牛 扒 烤 好 后 放 三 分 钟 再 上 菜 ,<br />

让 提 升 到 表 面 的 肉 汁 可 以 再 吸 收 回 到 肉 中 ,<br />

接 下 来 就 可 以 大 快 朵 颐 了 。「 看 到 客 人 吃<br />

得 开 心 , 我 真 的 很 高 兴 。」<br />

flavor dna | TK | 131

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