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Journey Back to Eden.pdf - St Mark Coptic Orthodox Church Chicago

Journey Back to Eden.pdf - St Mark Coptic Orthodox Church Chicago

Journey Back to Eden.pdf - St Mark Coptic Orthodox Church Chicago

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SEPTEMBERA TIME OF UNCERTAINTYFirst ImpressionsSEPTEMBER 3, WEDNESDAYMy plane landed two days ago in Alexandria. It’s unusual <strong>to</strong> fly<strong>to</strong> Egypt and land in Alexandria rather than in Cairo, I gather,though it seemed <strong>to</strong> me <strong>to</strong> be a good idea <strong>to</strong> come first <strong>to</strong> the citywhich is more ancient; <strong>to</strong> enter Egypt through its his<strong>to</strong>rical door,and then <strong>to</strong> go later <strong>to</strong> Cairo. Besides, Father Douglas, one of themonks at <strong>St</strong>. Vincent’s, has some contacts in Alexandria and hethought it would be good for me <strong>to</strong> come <strong>to</strong> Egypt by being welcomedin Alexandria first.My host for the moment, a doc<strong>to</strong>r, is ambivalent <strong>to</strong>ward me.He is very gracious, even excessively so on some external level, butwhen I speak about the work I’m doing, he seems uncomfortable.He says things like, “The Copts are the past of Egypt. A venerableinstitution,” he calls them, “which everyone reverences, but it isnot the living Egypt. The living Egypt is Islamic and Arabic.” Hedoesn’t understand who I am at all. When the time comes in a meal<strong>to</strong> offer <strong>to</strong>asts or extend good wishes, he even keeps proposing thatI might one day find a fine wife and have many kids, although I’msure he knows I’m a priest.I’m disappointed with the city, I have <strong>to</strong> say. It’s very large, butthere’s nothing left of the Pharaonic times, not even of the laterRoman or Greek times, and nothing of the Byzantine times <strong>to</strong>note. There’s nothing romantic about the city of Alexandria exceptits name and the sea. Its name I associate with the novel series, TheAlexandria Quartet, but it’s a big, sprawling, third-world city with5

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