Kitesoul Magazine #12 English Edition

Just before this wave I got a really good barrel at
Peahi (“Jaws”, at the North Shore of the island of
Maui).) It was my first clean barrel out there and
it gave me a feeling I can´t even decribe. I was
instantly addicted, and I wanted another one… a
bigger one! So five minutes later I dropped into
this wave pictured. I set myself up really deep
behind the peak of the wave. As the wave began
to hit the reef I could tell it was going to hollow
out and barrel.
I edged against the kite one last time to make
sure I was deep enough. Just after I slammed on
the breaks my kite hit a lull in the wind and lost
tension and steering. As I began to bottom turn I
quickly realized I was too deep and it was going
to be bad. I wanted to make sure I didn't get hit
by the lip of the wave so I set my rail as hard as I
could trying to get higher up on the face. I figured
if I can get high I might have a chance to make
it. Just as I got under the lip and into the barrel I
hit a big piece of chop and lost my rail. It was by
far the biggest barrel I have seen from the inside,
and one of the scariest moments of my life!
Unfortunately I could only watch the lip fly over
my head as I skipped on my stomach knowing
that I was going down hard. As I bodysurfed into
oblivion, I sent my kite up and prayed. Luckily the
kite regained control and shot into the sky ripping
me out the back of the wave.
And what about my board? My board went up
onto the rocks and snapped in two pieces! My
session was over, but I made it back to the beach
unscathed.