09.12.2012 Views

How to Grow More Vegetables : And Fruits, Nuts ... - Shroomery

How to Grow More Vegetables : And Fruits, Nuts ... - Shroomery

How to Grow More Vegetables : And Fruits, Nuts ... - Shroomery

SHOW MORE
SHOW LESS

You also want an ePaper? Increase the reach of your titles

YUMPU automatically turns print PDFs into web optimized ePapers that Google loves.

1.<br />

2.<br />

3.<br />

4.<br />

5.<br />

6.<br />

7.<br />

at a later point in time. We have found this soil preparation<br />

process greatly improves plant health and yields immediately in<br />

poor, compacted and heavy soil. It is often worth the extra<br />

digging time involved. <strong>How</strong>ever, it does use an insustainable<br />

amount of organic matter.<br />

The U-bar dig can be used as a substitute for the ongoing<br />

double-dig in soil that is in reasonably good shape. This usually<br />

means after one normal double-dig or more. The 18-inch-long<br />

U-bar tines (see page 13) do not prepare the soil as deeply as a<br />

spade and a spading fork used <strong>to</strong> double-dig 24 inches deep, but<br />

the lower 12 inches of the growing bed compact more slowly<br />

over time than the upper 12 inches. Also, the U-bar appears <strong>to</strong><br />

have the advantage of mixing up the soil strata much less than<br />

double-digging with a spade and a spading fork. It aerates the<br />

soil less, however. This is an advantage in looser, sandier soil<br />

and can be a problem in tighter clays. If you use a U-bar regularly,<br />

do a normal double-dig as often as increased compaction<br />

Ongoing Double-Dig<br />

A primary difference between<br />

the ongoing and the initial<br />

double-dig is that the compost<br />

is put on after the digging<br />

process in the ongoing<br />

double-dig.<br />

1. The bed is shown after<br />

harvest with a slightly raised<br />

mound of partially recompacted<br />

soil and residual<br />

compost. When the soil is<br />

lightly moist, loosen the entire<br />

<strong>to</strong>p 12 inches of the area <strong>to</strong> be<br />

dug with a spading fork, and<br />

remove any weeds.<br />

2. Remove the soil from the<br />

upper part of the first trench,<br />

and place it in a soil s<strong>to</strong>rage<br />

area for use in making<br />

compost and flat soil.<br />

3. Loosen the soil an additional<br />

12 inches. (See Note below.)<br />

4. Dig out the upper part of the<br />

second trench, and move it<br />

forward in<strong>to</strong> the first upper<br />

trench.<br />

5. Loosen the lower part of the<br />

second trench.<br />

6. Continue the double-digging<br />

process (repeating steps 4 and<br />

5) for the remaining trenches.<br />

Rake after each 3–4 trenches<br />

<strong>to</strong> ensure even bed height.<br />

7. Shape the bed by raking it.<br />

Evenly spread a 1-inch layer<br />

of compost and any needed<br />

fertilizers over the entire area.<br />

Sift in compost and any fertilizers<br />

2 <strong>to</strong> 4 inches deep with a<br />

spading fork.<br />

Note<br />

After the lower trench has been<br />

loosened, pota<strong>to</strong>es may be placed on<br />

its surface on 9-inch centers using<br />

offset spacing (see “Seed Propagation,”<br />

pages 63–65). The soil from<br />

the next trench’s upper level may<br />

then be moved forward on<strong>to</strong> them.<br />

This is the easiest way we have<br />

found <strong>to</strong> plant pota<strong>to</strong>es. (Mark the<br />

location of the pota<strong>to</strong>es with s<strong>to</strong>nes<br />

or sticks in the outside paths before<br />

covering them with soil. This will<br />

indicate where pota<strong>to</strong>es should be<br />

placed on the surface of each<br />

succeeding lower trench.)<br />

BED PREPARATION 15

Hooray! Your file is uploaded and ready to be published.

Saved successfully!

Ooh no, something went wrong!