Fah Thai Magazine Nov/Dec 2017

PHNOM PENH
SATURDAY
THE LOCAL MOTION
Distinctively big and yellow, the
large dome with four outstretched
architectural arms like a spider
marks Phnom Penh’s Central
Market (Phsar Thmei), yet another
symbol of the city’s past grand
places. Built in 1937, the market is
steadfastly familiar in sight and a
routine spot for its retail offerings
and flavours for local people. Walk
through lines of souvenir shops
towards the back of the market and
choose from the myriad food stalls
and treat yourself to a substantial
local breakfast.
A ROYAL VISIT
Since the year 1865, the Royal
Palace in Phnom Penh served
as residence to the monarchs
of Cambodia, except during the
known periods of turmoil. Now the
premises, except for the Khemarin
Palace where the current king
actually lives, is open to the public.
A personal guided tour for an
additional US$10 is actually worth
it, especially for the personal
historical titbits from a local guide.
A respectful dress code applies.
Top Left
Ornate temples and
the presence of the
Silver Pagoda are
sights to behold with
a visit to the Royal
Palace.
Top Right
The Central Market
takes it design from
art deco.
Bottom Right
The late architect
Vann Molyvann
designed the
National Sports
Complex, which was
completed in 1964.
ONE FINE MEAL
Expect to have a fine dining
treatment in Phnom Penh as it
joins the international ranks of
high-end meals. At the Tiger’s Eye,
the bistro-style restaurant run by
veteran South African chef Timothy
Bruyns, the impeccably prepared
food is Instragram-worthy, and also
indicates that behind the scenes
there’s hard work and almost
everything served is made from
scratch or by hand such as sourdough
breads, smoked butter, preserves
that change daily, egg noodles, and
even miso and tofu. Indulge in his
degustation menus, or simply tuck
into delicious grilled chicken baos.
thetigerseye.online
A NATIONAL SPORTS COMPLEX
Among Vann Molyvann’s remaining
masterpieces is the National Olympic
Stadium built during Cambodia’s
heyday in 1964. Inspired by Le
Corbusier’s austere modernism,
the stadium, along with its 60,000-
seat arena, is now the venue where
anyone can still feel the energy of
great modern Khmer architecture.
Join the locals on their evening
aerobic sessions, livened up with
different blasting disco tunes. Or just
be there – before it gets razed and
disappears – and simply soak in the
awesome sight of stark roofs whose
lines create either a zigzag or straight
pattern. Train your sights also on the
eye-catching cantilevered VIP box.
SA SA BASSAC
Another private effort to revive the
Khmer arts scene and strengthen
it is Sa Sa Bassac – an art gallery
and study room. Tucked away on
the upper floors of a nondescript
building, it’s not too far away from
the tourist-dense riverfront and
the Royal Palace areas. Founded in
2011 by curator Erin Gleeson and
the Stiev Selapak artist collective,
Sa Sa Bassac has slowly become
the place for a local art scene with
a broad and international reach.
sasabassac.com.
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