Estetica Magazine is the world's leading hairdressing magazine. Founded in Italy in 1946 and published today in over 60 countries around the world, it is a global reference point for professionals working in the hair and beauty industry. Techniques, fashion, education and trends are at the core of every issue of Estetica Magazine. Further information about both the printed and digital versions of the magazine is available at www.esteticanetwork.com
“I always say ‘hair is like a fabric’ and I appreciate designing it as an accessory to the clothes,” says TIGI European Session Director, Maria Kovacs. Cutting it on Great looking hair complementary to the clothes may be a quiet contributor to a designer’s latest vibe – but it’s an essential element which helps seal the deal of a collection’s success. Many hairdressers love the idea of working backstage for runway shows, but it takes a special type of person with particular skills and characteristics to make it in the fashion arena. Forging relationships with designers, nurturing connections and proving your worth are essential in order to become trusted to work on a new collection, with the designer totally confident the last model out looks as good as the first. As long-time Official Sponsors of London Fashion Week, TONI&GUY is an absolute authority on catwalk collaborations. The company’s International Artistic Director and Head of Education, Cos Stakkas, says sometimes it takes just one season to hit it off with a designer, whereas it may take a couple of seasons of collaboration with others before they feel completely comfortable with you as their ‘go to’. “I also like to think we’re a first choice because they’ve seen our work from previous seasons and know about our positive brand catwalks Fabulous hair is the stylish accessory to every designer’s newest collection. We dip into the jamboree bag of fashion to find out what it takes to cut it as a catwalk hairdresser extraordinaire. Maria Weijers 18 fashion Mark Fast AW18; Hair by TIGI
eputation,” says Cos. “We regularly work with Pam Hogg, Henry Holland, Paul Costelloe, Tata Naka and Xiao Li among many others. There’s a lot of communication in the run-up to fashion week and it’s the hair test day that really helps build trust. “It’s a balance between bringing to life the designer’s desired look but also being honest if you feel a style isn’t possible to achieve. Providing honest feedback quickly gains respect. If you’ve worked with a designer for a few seasons, everything comes together quite quickly. If it’s a newer relationship, you need to be more flexible to accommodate the many moving parts leading up to Fashion Week,” says Cos. But given catwalk hair has become more relaxed and nonchalant of late – how do you make it look special and fresh to each designer? “Paying attention to detail is key, because with detail comes originality,” explains Cos. “It Forging a rapport with the designer is a basic requisite doesn’t need to be outlandish to be noticed. Media is so important for the designer’s future sales, so the hair needs to resonate with the consumer. We don’t want to scare them off.” Seamless backstage work also involves creating a harmonious team. TONI&GUY chooses session team members via an audition process where stylists must replicate five set looks that cover various techniques. “This allows us to assess each candidate on their skill level as well as gauge how well they work under pressure,” says Cos. “To be a great catwalk hairdresser you need to be trained in all disciplines so you can create anything that’s thrown at you, be flexible and forward thinking. Successful candidates are invited back to a boot-camp for people to meet each other and gel. It’s so important for a team to work well as a unit, that each member show respect for the head of team’s lead, one another’s skills and the designer and models’ needs.” Although full-on in his role as Global Creative Director for Regis, Kieron Fowles makes time to be part of the backstage team for many creative catwalk kings – Guido Palau and Eugene Soulieman included. Kieron got hooked on fashion through his earlier work with TONI&GUY and he’s worked on many top shows including Victoria Beckham, Alexander Wang, Preen and Yohji Yamamoto. But earning your stripes and being and asked to work backstage doesn’t come easy. “You have to earn your place, it’s a bit like being Lulu Guiness AW18; Hair by Zoe Irwin for ghd “Work-wise I wouldn’t go anywhere without my ghd gold styler and ghd root lift spray – I use it as a base for everything,” says Zoe Irwin.