Professional Beauty July/August 2019
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PERPLEXED PEELING<br />
There is a lot of confusion surrounding chemical peels in the industry. Clinic Care<br />
founder Sean Abel reveals what salon owners need to know about treatments.<br />
THERE ARE ALL sorts of questions that crop<br />
up when it comes to peels. When do you leave<br />
them on the skin and when do you remove them?<br />
Although most skincare brand’s peels are similar,<br />
most brands like to put a slightly unique and<br />
different spin on their peel formula. Is it important<br />
to follow the guidelines of each peel treatment as<br />
each peel requires you to have a full insight to the<br />
ins and outs of that specific peel.<br />
Chemical Peels usually are divided into three<br />
categories depending upon the depth of the wound<br />
created by the peel. Superficial Peels will only<br />
penetrate the epidermis, they are deemed “very<br />
light to light”. They essentially increase cellular<br />
turn over. Medium depth peels (TCA) wound the<br />
upper dermis and deep peels (Phenol Peels) wound<br />
the mid-dermis. Phenol peeling is rarely performed<br />
today. Medium and deep peeling can create<br />
smoother skin, but can come with long recovery<br />
times and a higher risk of complications. Peels<br />
performed in Australia, either by skin therapist,<br />
nurse or cosmetic physician mainly use superficial<br />
peels. Some medical clinics may like to perform<br />
medium depth peels, although most consumers do<br />
not like the downtime required.<br />
Within the category of Superficial Peels, there<br />
are a vast array of unique blended peels. This is<br />
where it can get confusing to understand and<br />
remember if the peel should be removed or left on<br />
the skin. To know the main exfoliating ingredient,<br />
means you’ll know the outcome and whether the<br />
peel remains on or not, and if the skin will shed or<br />
not. Smarter skincare brands state on the bottle if<br />
the peel is to be removed or not.<br />
A “resurfacing peel treatment” is designed to<br />
resurface the skin and have an immediate effect,<br />
so the skin is instantly softer. This type of peel<br />
must be removed. These encompass most AHA’s<br />
(glycolic, lactic, citric and mandelic) and various<br />
fruit and vegetable pulp blends.<br />
Alpha Hydroxy Acids (AHAs) help to rejuvenate<br />
the skin. They work by interfering with enzymes that<br />
help to reduce sulfate and phosphate groups from<br />
the surface of corneocytes. Be decreasing corneocyte<br />
cohesion, they promote increased exfoliation of the<br />
epidermis. Because AHAs work best in a low pH,<br />
they do not induce enough coagulation of the skin<br />
proteins and therefore cannot neutralise themselves.<br />
They must be neutralised. If they are not neutralized,<br />
the skin can burn.<br />
• Time dependant (up to 10 minutes)<br />
• AHA<br />
• No downtime / no physical shedding of the skin<br />
• Skin instantly fresher<br />
A “shedding peel treatment” is then deemed something that will physically<br />
shed the skin. These generally self-neutralise so they can remain on the skin<br />
for hours after the treatment. The client will leave the clinic with the peel<br />
still on their skin until they wash their face hours later. As a golden rule, if it<br />
contains the beta hydroxy acid (BHA) salicylic acid (usually at 20% or higher),<br />
the peel will remain on the skin and most likely the skin will shed.<br />
BHA induce a very high coagulation of the skin proteins and therefore they<br />
do neutralise themselves. Coagulation can be seen on the skin as “frosting” or a<br />
white chalky haze. It is very safe for the client to leave the clinic with a BHA<br />
based peel on their skin.<br />
• Applied in layers<br />
• Self-neutralize<br />
• Create frosting (white chalky residue) on the skin<br />
• BHA / Jessner<br />
• Extremely unsafe for pregnant women<br />
• Skin is expected to shed<br />
COMMON ACIDS USED FOR RESURFACING PEEL<br />
TREATMENTS:<br />
GLYCOLIC ACID: is the smallest known AHA. It is colourless, odorless and<br />
is highly soluble in water. It is derived from sugar cane. It is deeply penetrating<br />
and works deep between the skin cells. Helps to weaken the bonds of the<br />
lipids that hold the dead skin cells together. Dramatically increases cell<br />
turnover.<br />
LACTIC ACID: is the second smallest known AHA. It is derived from sour<br />
milk. Considered more hydrating (or less dehydrating than Glycolic as it<br />
penetrates). Also helps to weaken the bonds of the lipids that hold the dead<br />
skin cells together. Increases cell turnover.<br />
MANDELIC ACID: is the large molecular AHA, much larger than glycolic. It<br />
is derived from almonds. Is considered brightening and anti-bacterial. Ideal for<br />
acne and skin prone to pigmentation. It does create a light exfoliation.<br />
PUMKPIN PULP: naturally rich in Vitamin A + C and enzymes. When applied<br />
in a topical application they can help to soften the skin. The enzymes will help<br />
dissolve dead skin and ensure an immediate softening. Pumpkin increases cell<br />
turnover, stimulates the rejuvenation of collagen and elastin as well as having<br />
antibacterial properties. Pumpkin has the highest concentration of the active<br />
antioxidant vitamin A of all vegetables, and therefore it is the preferred choice<br />
amongst chemists.<br />
COMMON ACIDS USED FOR SHEEDING PEELS:<br />
SALICYLIC ACID: from the bark of a willow tree. Also called Beta Hydroxy<br />
Acid. Colourless. Used as Aspirin. Mainly used as an anti-acne treatment.<br />
Hot when applied to the skin. Surface exfoliant. Used to shed the skin quickly.<br />
Kills bacteria and opens clogged pores. Anti-inflammatory and can reduce<br />
swelling and sore cysts quickly.<br />
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