Janoschka magazine Linked_V8_2023

34 f a c e t o f a c e
issue #8 © l i n k e d 35
Thh e divisions on a watch dial allow us to measure time precisely down to fractions of a second. Th h e indices, windows and sub-dials allow us to keep an eye on the time, day, date, month and year as well as follow the phases of the moon.
METICULOUS CARE
Watch dial manufacture is not
just an area of watchmaking; it is
a separate trade with its very own
vocabulary and traditions. Nevertheless,
even in Switzerland, the
motherland of watches, there are
only a handful of companies left
that still have both the necessary
creativity and the extraordinarily
skilled artisans required to tackle
the most demanding – and sometimes
extremely cost-intensive
– challenges faced by watchmakers.
Watch dial makers work with
an unbelievable range of materials
from semi-precious stones,
ceramics and various enamels,
to mother of pearl, wood, lacquers
and even meteorites. Furthermore,
they need to master
numerous artisanal and artistic
techniques: guillochéing, engraving,
enamelling, polishing, turning
and even toolmaking. These specialists
will have the upper hand
if, in addition to passion, they hold
a wealth of well-kept professional
secrets. This is how expressive
miniature masterpieces emerge
from a combination of astonishing
materials, incomparable knowhow
and the latest techniques,
paired with attention to detail and
precision.
Each watch dial model is unique and
defined by its style, functions and
components, like date display, totalisators
(sub-dials), moon phase indicators
– and the way these are positioned.
Once the design has been finalised,
the dial-maker starts with a blank: a
thin metal disc made from brass, nickel,
gold, silver, titanium or similar. After
a few preparations, which include
punching out the display windows and
the hole in the centre for the hands,
they attach small feet to the back of
the metal disc. These appendages
eventually anchor the watch face to
the movement. Initially, though, their
job is to ensure accurate positioning
of the dial during the subsequent assembly
stages. The blanks are then
cleaned and polished before setting
out on a journey into a world of diverse
and highly specialised craftsmanship.
Along the way, some will be adorned
with decorative finishes (like the famous
sunbrushing); others may stop
off at the electroplating department
for metal-plated enhancements; while
others still will receive their final colour
in the paint shop.
Let’s take a closer look at a few special
surface refinements. Some have
been used for centuries, while others
are state-of-the-art. Meticulous craftsmanship
is involved as well as the
latest advanced precision tools. Both
serve to produce watch dials with a
perfect balance of beauty and clear
readability.