Janoschka magazine Linked_V8_2023

38 f a c e t o f a c e
issue #8 ©
l i n k e d
39
The sheer number of processing stages
makes this all very time-consuming, and
requires dedication to and extraordinary
expertise in this most delicate and rare
watch dial art. Each trip to the kiln harbours
risks. To obtain precisely the right hue, the
enameller has to know exactly how the
respective colour pigment will turn out
upon firing. And of course, several days,
or even weeks, of work could be ruined
by tiny dust particles or a sudden draught
of air. Only perfect mastery of each manufacturing
step, not to mention an intimate
knowledge of the kiln, will yield an even,
clear and smooth enamel layer, creating a
flawlessly flat watch dial boasting colours
of the deepest intensity and shimmering
transparency.
ENAMEL
The real alchemists among watch dial makers
are the enamellers, for they are the masters of
colour and fire. The whole magic of the enamel
is formed in the kiln, where the glass-like material
based on quartz sand melts onto the metal.
Temperatures of over 800° Celsius create art
objects with an everlasting shine and a luminance
that never fades.
However, the way to that point is long and beset
with countless incalculable factors: first, the
enameller grinds coloured glass or enamel pigments
into a fine powder and cleans it several
times before mixing it with water or oil. This
step alone may take several hours. The greatest
care and patience is called for to obtain the
purest hues and the subtlest nuances. After
that, the artist can start applying the enamel to
the prepared metal surface with the finest of
brushes before it is put in the kiln. Depending
on the complexity of the design, dozens of firing
processes might be required. Firing renders the
enamel paste solid and extremely hard.
Enamelling is an ancient
technique hat dates
back to Byzantine times.
Three variants are distinguished:
CLOISONNÉ /
cell
Fine flat wire, normally made from
gold, is bent into shape using a template.
The enameller fills the cells
(French: cloisons) formed by the wire
with different coloured enamel masses.
The wire strips separate the individual
colour fields and prevent the colours
running into each other.
CHAMPLEVÉ /
raised field
This technique first of all involves
engraving recesses into the metal plate.
The enamel artist then fills these cells
using colours to create the desired hues.
PAILLONNÉ /
translucent layering
This enamelling discipline uses tiny
motifs made from leaf gold and silver
(paillons). The enameller embeds these
extremely fine, precisely cut tinsel-like
pieces (just 0.0001 mm thick) between
two layers of translucent enamel.