Janoschka magazine Linked_V8_2023

36 f a c e t o f a c e
issue #8 ©
l i n k e d
37
GUILLOCHÉ
MICROPAINTING
The century-old technique of hand guillochéing
is a decorative engraving process using a
special engine turning machine or rose engine.
The guillocheur controls the rotation of the
machine with one hand, while guiding the engraving
tool with extreme precision via a magnifying
glass with the other. He or she cuts intricate
lines into the metal surface of the blank,
creating repetitive geometric patterns in an
almost endless variety of highly complex and
fascinating decoration – a kaleidoscopic array
of crisscrossing lines and waves. The most
popular designs used on watch dials are: clous
de Paris (hobnail), vieux panier (basket weave),
grain d’orge (barley corn) and soleil (solar). The
one feature that they all have in common is that
they play with light, lending each watch face its
unique character.
The perfect base for micro-painting is mother of pearl.
Some of the details are so fine that the painters
use brushes with a single bristle.
All micro-painted pieces are handmade and unique.
MARQUETRY TECHNIQUE
Mentioned for the first time in the 16th century, guillochéing initially
found use in jewellery making (the most famous and probably
most expensive examples are Fabergé eggs).
Marqueteurs decorate watch dials with a wide range of different woods
in a multitude of colours. They cut the pieces to shape following their inspiration
and the selected or set motifs, join them together and glue them on.
It was not until the end of the 19th century that watchmakers
discovered this art. A high-precision technique, it has been passed down
from master to master and is used on parts of the watch movement,
casings, bracelets, winding rotors and, of course, watch dials.