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<strong>true</strong> <strong>hallucinations</strong>.<strong>htm</strong><br />

Tashi Gyaltsen Lama was my teacher. He was a very kind and understanding Gelugpa. In spite of his advanced age, he would arrive every<br />

morning promptly at seven for our two-hour lesson. I was like a child; we began with penmanship and the alphabet. Each morning, after the<br />

lama departed, I would study for several more hours and then the rest of the day was my own. I explored the King of Nepal's game sanctuary<br />

farther east of Boudanath and the Hindu cremation ghatts at nearby Pashupathinath. I also made the acquaintance of a few Westerners who<br />

were living in the vicinity.<br />

Among the latter were an English couple my own age. They were self-consciously fascinating. He was thin and blonde, with an aquiline nose<br />

and an arch manner typical of the model product of the British public school system. He was haughty and urbane, but eccentric and often<br />

hilarious. She was small and unhealthily thin— scrawny is the word I used to describe her to myself. Red-haired, wild-tempered, and cynical,<br />

she, like her companion, possessed a razor wit.<br />

They had both been disowned by their families and were traveling hippies, as we all were then. Their relationship was bizarre— they had<br />

come together from England, but the relaxation of tension, which arrival in bucolic Nepal had brought, had been too much for their fragile<br />

liaison. Now they lived apart, he at one end of Boudanath and she, alone, at the other. They met only for the combined purpose of "paying<br />

calls" or of abrading each other's nerves.<br />

For some reason, in that exotic setting they managed to charm me completely. Whether they were alone or together, I was always willing to<br />

pause from my studies to pass the time with them. We became fast friends. Naturally we discussed my work, since it involved hallucinogens;<br />

they were very interested, being familiar with LSD from their days in the London scene. We also discovered that we had mutual friends in<br />

India and that we all loved the novels of Thomas Hardy. It was a very pleasant idyll.<br />

During this time the method I had evolved for probing the shamanic dimension was to smoke DMT at the peak point of an LSD experience. I<br />

would do this whenever I took LSD, which was quite occasionally. It would allow me to enter the tryptamine dimension for a slightly<br />

extended period of time. As the summer solstice of 1969 approached, I laid plans for another such experiment.<br />

I was going to take LSD the night of the solstice and sit up all night on my roof, smoking hashish and star-gazing. I mentioned my plan to my<br />

two English friends, who expressed a desire to join me. This was fine with me, but there was a problem; there was not enough reliable LSD to<br />

go around. My own tiny supply had arrived in Kathmandu, prophetically hidden inside a small ceramic mushroom mailed from Aspen.<br />

Almost as a joke, I suggested that they substitute the seed of the Himalayan Datura, Datura metel, for the LSD. Daturas are<br />

annual bushes and the source of a number of tropane alkaloids— scopalamine, hylosciamine, and so on—compounds that produce a pseudohallucinogenic<br />

effect. They give an impression of flying or of confronting vague and fleeting visions, but all in a realm hard to keep control of<br />

and hard to recollect later. The seeds of Datura metel are used in Nepal by saddhus (wandering hermits and holy men), so their use was known<br />

in the area. Nevertheless my suggestion was made facetiously, since the difficulty of controlling Datura is legendary. To my surprise, my<br />

friends agreed that this was something they wanted to do, so we arranged that they would arrive at my home at six P.M. on the appointed day<br />

to make the experiment.<br />

When the evening finally came, I moved my blankets and pipes up to the roof of the building. From there I could command a fine view of the<br />

surrounding village with its enormous Stupa, a conical temple with staring Buddha eyes painted on its higher portion in gold leaf. The upper<br />

golden levels of the Stupa were at that time encased in scaffolding, where repairs necessitated by a lightning strike suffered some months<br />

previously were under way. The white-domed bulk of the Stupa gave the whitewashed adobe mud village of Boudanath a saucerian and<br />

unearthly quality. Farther away, rising up many thousands of feet, I could see the great Anna-purna Range; in the middle distance, the land<br />

was a patchwork of emerald paddies.<br />

Six o'clock came and went, and my friends had not arrived. At seven they still had not been seen, and so I took my treasured tab of Orange<br />

Sunshine and settled down to wait. Ten minutes later, they arrived. I could already feel myself going, so I gestured to the two piles of Datura<br />

seeds that I had prepared. They took them downstairs to my room and ground them with a mortar and pestle before washing them down with<br />

some tea. By the time they had returned to the roof and gotten comfortably settled, I was surging through mental space.<br />

Hours seemed to pass. When they seated themselves, I was too distant to be aware of them. She was seated directly across from me, and he<br />

farther back and to one side, in the shadows. He played his flute. I passed the hash pipe. The moon rose full and high in the sky. I fell into long<br />

hallucinatory reveries that each lasted many minutes but felt like whole lifetimes. When I had emerged from<br />

file:///C|/Documents%20and%20Settings/All%20Users/Doc...lture/True%20Hallucinations/<strong>true</strong>%20<strong>hallucinations</strong>.<strong>htm</strong> (32 of 106)4/14/2004 10:01:15 PM

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