saxelovnebo mecnierebaTa Ziebani #2 (43), 2010 ART SCIENCE ...

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lali gelaSvilidautova qarTul kinoxelovnebas vaxtang tabliaSvilmakinofilmiT `qeTo da kote~.qeTo da kotes~ personaJebis kostiumebis eskizebi Seqmniliafarnaoz lapiaSvilis mier. personaJebis CacmulobaSi arisqarTul-evropuli sinTezi; aseve ferTa siWrele, rac imperiodisaTvis iyo damaxasiaTebeli. aRsaniSnavia, rom personaJebsacviaT evropuli yaidis kostumebi qarTuli detalebiT.TiToeuli personaJis CacmulobaSi bevr saintereso detalsda siaxles SevxvdebiT, agreTve bevr kostiumSi aris qarTulis,evropulis da aziuri samosis sinTezi.am personaJebis samosSi Cans sazRvari TavSekavebulobasada fufunebas Soris. arcerT kostiums ara aqvs zedmetidetali da arc araferi aklia. kostumebi ti puri qarTuliTu evropuli, yvelaferi harmoniulad aris SerwymulierTmaneTTan. am kostiumebiT Cans ara marto fufuneba da imdrois miswrafebebi, aramed personaJis xasiaTic. vaxtangtabliaSvilis kinofilm `qeTo da koteSi~ mandilosnebiskostiumebi ZiriTadad Sekerilia krinoliniT. im droisaTviskrinoliniani kabebi siaxle iyo. viwro weliTa da momjdarilifiT. kostumebi ZiriTadad Sekerilia abreSumis qsovilisagan,kabebi aris Rrmad dekoltirebuli da misi guli gaformebuliaZvirfasi qvebiT. yvela qvedatans amSvenebs qarTuli sartyeli,romelic aris daqarguli. kabebi ZiriTadad aris Wreli, racim droisTvis modurad iTvleboda da aseve aris TeTri.personaJebis mixedviT Tu vimsjelebT, TeTri sazeimo feradiTvleboda da maT aformebdnen haerovani bafTebiT da lentebiT,aseve filmSi `qeTo da kote~ gamoyenebulia Savi da muqiSindisferi xaverdis qaTibi. qaTibi muxlebamdea, saxeloebiidayvebTan Sexsnili da daqargulia, aseve gaformebulia ZvirfasiqvebiT. Tavsaburavi aris rogorc qarTuli Cixtikopi, aseveevropuli Slapebi da sxvadasxva mosarTavi.XIX saukunis bolos moda qmnis tansacmlis axal ti ps –kabas iribad aWrili qvedataniT da `viCiniseburi~ saxeloebiT.es xels uwyobs axali stilis Camoyalibebas, rogorc sportul,ise saRamos samosSi. es aris moderni, romelic figuras `S~isformas aZlevs. es aris erTiani stili, romelsac harmoniaSiCacmuloba XIX saukunissaqarTveloSi kinofilm `qeTo da kotes~ mixedviTmohyavs ori sxvadasxva stili. axali stilis ZiebaSi, rogorcyovelTvis, inglisi pirvelobda, mas SeuerTdnen amerikisSeerTebuli Statebi, belgia, safrangeTi, bolos _ vena dapraRa. axali moda yvelaze logikurad praRaSi viTardeboda.es moda etapobrivad SemoiWra ruseTsa da saqarTveloSi.swored iribad aWrili da naoWasxmuli kostiumi acvia qeTos.kaba aris muqi feris, welSi gadaWrili, mklavebi idayvisqvemodan dawyebuli bolomde aris Sexsnili. mkerdisa dabeWebis gaswvriv kabas aqvs bewvis ormagi kanti, romelicgamoyenebulia dekoratiuli TvalsazrisiT. kinofilm `qeToda koteSi~ gamoyenebulia xaverdis, abreSumis, Salis da bambisqsovilebi daWimuli an daserili vorsiT. es yvelaferi saTavesiRebs italiaSi. 1247 wels venecielma mqsovelebma uflebamiiRes CamoeyalibebinaT sakuTari gildia. es gadawyvetilebamaT miiRes imitom, rom ufro gaefarTovebinaT abreSumis dasxva SesaniSnavi qsovilebis warmoeba. renesansis epoqaSiqsovilebisTvis naxatebs qmnida polaiulo. barokos epoqaSixaverdi xdeba feradi. rac Seexeba saqarTvelos, qarTvelebiqsovilebs yidulobdnen ZiriTadad daRestneli lekebisagan.kinofilm `qeTo da koteSi~ mamakacebis samosadgamoyenebulia tipuri evropuli smokingi. smokingis saxeloebida sayelo aris Savi xaverdiT gaformebuli, agreTve mamakacebiSemosili arian TeTri axaluxebiT, romlis sayelo gaxamebulia.acviaT mokle Jiletebi feradi abreSumis, rac Seexeba Sarvlebs,acviaT kubokruli welze momdgari Sarvlebi jibeebiT. asevefilmSi gamoyenebulia qarTuli nacionaluri Coxa-axaluxi,romlebic gaformebulia araqarTuli elementebiT, magramqarguloba da mTlianad kostiumis morTuloba qarTulia.mamakacebi agreTve Semosili arian yabalaxiT da morTulniqamar-xanjliT. filmSi aseve aris gamoyenebuli fraki. iswelzea momdgari, tipur frakTan SedarebiT aq gansxvavebasqmnis lackanis forma, gulze Wrilis sidide. im periodSimodaSi iyo grZeli Sarvlebi, win iribad aWrili, romfexsacmelze ar miWmuWvniliyo. aseTi Sarvlebi vizualuradboloSi viwrovdeboda. fraki kinofilmSi aris Savi feris,frakTan erTad acviaT TeTri `piJes~ Jileti.246 247
lali gelaSvilikinofilm `qeTo da koteSi~ erT-erT scenaSi bavSvispersonaJs vxvdebiT, romelic saSualebas gvaZlevs vimsjeloTim drois bavSvis Cacmulobaze. bavSvs acvia tyavis qurTuki,romelsac `qeTirs~ uwodebdnen. aseTi qurTuki centralurkavkasiaSi farTod iyo gavrcelebuli. mas keravdnen cxvristyavisgan, romelsac bewviani mxare Signidan hqonda moqceuli.igi welSi iyo gadaWrili. qurTukis qveda nawili odnavinaoWiT iyo mikerebuli zeda nawilTan. saxeloebi hqondagrZeli, welSi ki Sekruli ori dedal-mamali dugmiT. qurTukissigrZe muxlamdea. sayelos irgvliv majaze, wina kalTaze daboloSi Semovlebuli aqvs bewvamobrunebuli tyavi. gulzedekoratiuli TvalsazrisiT mikerebuli aqvs saqileebi, aseveaxuravs qalaquri tipis qudi.kinofilm `qeTo da koteSi~ asaxulia yaraCoRelTaaraCveulebrivi kadrebi, isini iyvnen xelosanTa feniswarmomadgenlebi. maT ecvaT axaluxi, ganieri Sarvlebi, Coxada qarTuli Ceqma. welze ekeTaT vercxlis ornamentirebuliqamrebi, romelzedac damagrebuli iyo jaWvebi. qamarSi Cakecilida dakidebuli hqondaT wiTeli abreSumis haerovani qsovili.maT ecvaT doSluliani axaluxi. doSluliani axaluxi gverdzeikvreboda yaiTnis RilebiT. rac meti Rilebi hqonda, miTufro lazaTianad iTvleoda. axaluxisaTvis iyenebdnen satinasda dimikitons. mas sami jibe hqonda _ ori garedan da erTiSignidan. Coxa ecvaT ori saxis: naoWiani da unaoWo. gulze,marjvniv da marcxniv, gakeTebuli hqonda sakvesebi. am sakvesebSiqalis naxevari TiTi Tu Caeteoda. mas ar xmarobdnen, esgasaformeblad iyo gakeTebuli. Coxa arasdros ikvreboda, isise iyo Sekerili, rom misi piri pirs ar unda misdeboda daCoxis qveS axaluxi unda gamoCeniliyo. ecvaT ganieri Sarvlebi.Sarvlis totebi Catanebuli iyo CeqmebSi. saSarvle qsovilebsdaRestneli lekebisagan iZendnen. Sarvals samubiani erqva.misi ube sami nawilisagan ikereboda. sityva `yaraCoReli~SavCoxians niSnavs, rasac isini TavianTi CacmulobiTadasturebdnen. maT exuraT maRali qudebi, romelsac `buxrisquds~ uwodebdnen. yvela yaraCoReli atarebda ulvaSs.Cacmuloba XIX saukunissaqarTveloSi kinofilm `qeTo da kotes~ mixedviTkinofilm `qeTo da kotes~ kostiumebis mxatvarma farnaozlapiaSvilma araCveulebrivad kargad gamoxata Tavisi eskizebiTimdroindeli Tbilisis yofa-cxovreba, samoseli da maSindelimaRali fenis miswrafebebi cvlilebebisken, Tundac samoselSirom qarTuli nacionaluri kostiumi arc silamaziT, arcpraqtikulobiT da arc ferTa siuxviT tols ar udebs sxvatipis samosels da itans modernistul gadawyvetilebebs,Tundac imisTvis, rom is yofiliyo gamoyenebuli iseT ukvdavmusikalur kinokomediaSi, rogoricaa, vaxtang tabliaSviliskinofilmi `qeTo da kote~.• nino brailaSvili, eTnografiuli Canaxatebi, `xelovneba~, Tbilisi,1990.• lali gelaSvili, msoflio modis ilustrirebuli enciklopedia,gamomcemloba ìmperia~, Tbilisi, 2006.• n. CofikaSvili, qarTuli kostiumi, Tbilisi, 1998.• l. molodini, g. CaCaSvili, qarTuli kostiumebis katalogi, Tbilisi,1989.• c. bezaraSvili, g jalabaZe, qarTuli xalxuri tansacmeli, Tbilisi,1986.248 249
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