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Dog Owner's Home Veterinary Handbook.pdf - Mr. Walnuts

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106 •DOG OWNER’S HOME VETERINARY HANDBOOK<br />

BRUSHING AND COMBING TECHNIQUES<br />

A dog’s coat is easily damaged by rough handling and improper grooming<br />

techniques. Each strand of hair has tiny scales that lie flat against the hair<br />

shaft. As the hair is pulled and stretched (which is not desirable), the scales<br />

project out like barbs. Adjacent hairs become snarled and eventually break<br />

during the unsnarling process.<br />

Dry hair attracts static electricity, which causes individual hairs to stick<br />

together. It is a good practice to use an antistatic coat conditioner before<br />

brushing. A number of popular products are available as pumps, aerosols, and<br />

rub-on creams. You can also simply spray the coat lightly with water.<br />

The coat should be brushed with tools that pass smoothly through the hair.<br />

In general, a pin brush can be used safely without stretching the hair. To avoid<br />

stretching, do not pull forcefully on a rake, slicker brush, or comb—except<br />

when removing dead hair during the shedding stage. If you find that you are<br />

pulling hard, you are either trying to groom too deep into the coat with each<br />

stroke or you are using a grooming tool with teeth or bristles that are too stiff<br />

or too close together.<br />

With longhaired dogs, insert the bristle or pin brush all the way into the<br />

coat and twist it slightly. Using short strokes, brush against the lay of the hair.<br />

Avoid using long strokes, as this can break the hair. You can also line brush—<br />

working up the side of your dog, brushing short sections at a time. You push<br />

the hair up, then brush small sections down at a time. This way, the hair<br />

underneath is brushed out as well as the top coat. It always makes sense to talk<br />

to your dog’s breeder about the best grooming techniques for the breed.<br />

For shorthaired breeds, brush with the lay of the hair, starting at the head<br />

and working back toward the tail. In all breeds, pay particular attention to the<br />

hindquarters and backs of the thighs, where dead hair is likely to mat.<br />

Carefully check behind the ears, as the soft hair there may also mat.<br />

If the dog is blowing her undercoat, remove loose hair with a rake. Start on<br />

the underside of the dog and work layer by layer up to the topside.<br />

Hairless dogs can be wiped with a damp towel, then carefully dried. They<br />

may need a bath to remove excess skin oils and to prevent the buildup of sunscreen<br />

(necessary to prevent sunburn).<br />

REMOVING MATS<br />

Mats are solid clumps of fur that can form anywhere on the body but are usually<br />

found behind the ears, in the folds of the armpits, around the anus, on the<br />

backs of the thighs, in the groin area, and between the toes. Mats are evidence<br />

of neglected grooming or grooming with the wrong tools. <strong>Dog</strong>s with<br />

softer hair are more prone to develop mats.

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