A history of the Highlands and of the Highland clans : with an ...

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102 IIISTOKV OK THE HIGHLANDS.
There was nothing a Highlander took so much delight in a^ the im-
provement of his personal appearance by the aid of dress. The pohii
of persona! decoration being once secured, it mattered not, says Geni-
ral Stewart, that his dwelling wa^ mean, iiis domestic utensils scanty,
and of the simplest construction, and his house and furniture merely
such as could be prepared by his own hands, i'et, with all his gay
tendencies, the HighlaiiJer looked upon the occupations of the tailor
and weaver with profound contempt, and as fit only for sickly and effemi-
nate persons. He did not disdain, however, to be his own shoemaker,
cooper, and carpenter, all of which he considered honourable profes-
sions, when confined at least to the supply of his own domestic necessi-
ties. We shall now give a description of tlie different parts of the Highland
costume :—
The Breacan-feile, literally, the chequered covering, is the original
garb of the Highlanders, and forms the chief part of the costume
but it is now almost laid aside in its simple form. It consisted of
J. plain piece of tartan from four to six yards in length, and two
yards broad. The plaid was adjusted with great nicety, and made
to surround the waist in great plaits or folds, and was firmly bound
round tlie loins with a leathern belt in such a manner that the lower
side fell down to the middle of the knee joint, and then, while there
were the foldings behind, the cloth wa.s double before. The upper
part was then fastened on the left shoulder with a large brooch or
pin, so as to display to the most advantage the tastefulness of the
arrangement, the two ends being sometimes suffered to hang down ;
but
that on the right side, which was necessarily the longest, was more
usually tucked under the belt. In battle, in travelling, and on other
occasions, this added much to the commodiousness and grace of the cos-
tunio. By this arrangement, the right arm of the wearer wa* left
uncovered and at full liberiy ; but in wet or very cold weather the plaid
was thrown loose, by which both botly and shoulders were covered. To
give free exercise for both arms in case of need, the plaid was fastened
across the breast by a large silver bodkin, or circular brooch, often en-
riched with precious stones, or imitations of them, having mottos
engraved, consisting of allegorical and figurative sentences.* Although
the belted plaid was peculiar to the Highlanders, it came gradually to
be worn by some of the inhabitimts of the Lowland liistricts adjoining
the Highlands ; but it was discontinued about the end of the last
century.
As the Breacan was without pockets, a purse, called sporan by the
Highlanders, was fastened or tied in front, which was very serviceable.
Tills purse was made of goats' or badgers' skin, and som