C Ihe Ladies c cu. V'VVAN - History and Classics, Department of

18 THE LADIES, THE GWICH'IN, AND THE RATWe then set out for the Hudson's Bay Company's office, with a letter from MrCunliffe to Mr Brabant. We did not find in this potentate of the famous businesscompany, isolated in his inner office like a spider at the heart of a web, a genialready-made friend like our friends in Winnipeg, but he was consistently efficientand kind, putting us in touch with helpful people and forwarding our plans. Itwas thanks to him that Mr Warner came, that very afternoon, to our hotel for along talk. Here at last was someone who could give us first-hand and recentinformation about the Rat. He cleared up several obscure points.First: It would take us at least ten days to track up the Rat, the Indian guidespushing the canoe while we walked through the brushwood. It would be necessaryto dismiss them at La Pierre House because even so they would have four wholedays walking back to Aklavik over soft muskeg country. Yes, the mosquitoes wouldbe bad, we must take veils and mosquito bars. Second: We could buy our paddlesand tump line at Aklavik with the canoe. Third: The Indians would bring theirown rifles and fishing lines. Fourth: On an average, we should need threepounds of food per person per day. Fifth: We could re-provision certainly at OldCrow and possibly at La Pierre House, so there was no need to carry food up theRat for more than 12 days; this would allow us a margin. Moreover we mightshoot a goose.Then he warned us about our relations with the Indian guides who would nottake orders from anyone; we must treat them on a friendly and equal footing.One woman had failed in this respect and they had refused to continue up theRat with her. She had to return and take another route with another party.During that day we spent much time in stores and shops ordering provisionsfrom a list furnished by Mr Brabant's office. Then the manager of the great HBCompany's store, Mr Dynes, drove us round Edmonton in his Buick. It is a wellplacedtown in wooded country on the river Saskatchewan, with nne buildings setin open spaces. Every small house is equipped with water, telephone and electriclight, everything seemed cleaner and more comfortable than at home, but howmuch energy had been expended on cleanliness and comfort? All the energy theyhad? Was there any left for spiritual adventures? Such thoughts flashed throughmy mind while Mr Dynes was saying: "This country is just full of optimism."Canadians seemed tremendously proud of their own achievements. Too muchoptimism, like tropical sunshine, can make one long for the coolness of humbleshade.