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C Ihe Ladies c cu. V'VVAN - History and Classics, Department of

C Ihe Ladies c cu. V'VVAN - History and Classics, Department of

C Ihe Ladies c cu. V'VVAN - History and Classics, Department of

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A Gril:l:/y BearI4Ia narrow shelf <strong>of</strong> l<strong>and</strong> some 20 feet above the water, dragging the carcase <strong>of</strong> thegrizzly. There was no other place for a camp. On that narrow <strong>and</strong> rather muddyterrace an orgy <strong>of</strong> butchering, cooking <strong>and</strong> eating now took place.We began supper with bear steaks. Lazarus <strong>and</strong>Jimmy were nearly <strong>of</strong>f theirheads with excitement <strong>and</strong> when Lazarus had eaten two or three steaks he rubbedhimself with a happy smile."By God," he said, "I've had a sore stomach all day, now I feel real good."As we sat there, close to the reeking corpse, consuming fried bear steaks <strong>and</strong>rice <strong>and</strong> treacle, we tried to regard this revolting scene as a matter <strong>of</strong> course.Sometimes life catches you up <strong>and</strong> whirls you into the strangest experience fromwhich there is no escape <strong>and</strong> you just bow your head <strong>and</strong> wait until it is over.It was nearly midnight but still broad daylight when we settled into oursleeping bags; there were beautiful red streaks in the north-west sky; the corpse<strong>of</strong> the grizzly, only partially dismembered, lay some ten yards from our tent. As Ilook back on that incident now I feel shame rather than pride over the shooting<strong>of</strong> the bear. Mter all, he had only come down to drink from his own river in hisown country; we were not only strangers but I rather think that on this occasionwe were also butchers. I never have forgotten the strange beauty <strong>of</strong> that creamcolouredform, with <strong>cu</strong>rved back, st<strong>and</strong>ing at the water's edge as we came swiftly<strong>and</strong> quietly round the bend in the evening light.I cannot now remember for how long we travelled in the l<strong>and</strong> <strong>of</strong> midnight sun,but I know that one midnight at Aklavik I photographed the sun when it was just aball <strong>of</strong> fire resting on the far end <strong>of</strong> a little lake behind the convent. Then, whiletravelling on the Rat, the Bell, the Por<strong>cu</strong>pine <strong>and</strong> the Yukon, I cannot recall anyhours <strong>of</strong> real darkness. At first, the continuous daylight had been very exhaustingbut we had now become used to it. The almost horizontal rays <strong>of</strong> sunlight now litup the scene <strong>of</strong> the grizzly's murder, investing every object with uncanny beauty.We were up early next morning, for on this day our guides were to start ontheir 90-mile walk back to Fort McPherson, across muskeg country. We had coldrice, treacle <strong>and</strong> boiled bear for breakfast, the guides enjoying that meal to thefull although they had been feasting <strong>and</strong> cooking for most <strong>of</strong> the night. To us thebear's meat tasted like string; it certainly had the texture <strong>of</strong> string. The bear'sskin lay beside us <strong>and</strong> all the meat had been neatly <strong>cu</strong>t into joints <strong>and</strong> portions.Mter breakfast, Lazarus returned to the hut at La Pierre House to take a pair <strong>of</strong>boots for himself <strong>and</strong> to hang a large joint <strong>of</strong> bear's meat in a bag on an outsiderafter, as payment to Jackson Brothers.

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