C Ihe Ladies c cu. V'VVAN - History and Classics, Department of

82THE LADIES, THE GWICH'IN, AND THE RATLeft to right: ClaraCo/tman Rogers (~~an),Gwendo/en Dorrien Smith,DorotJ:y Dash wood; Picnicon Vancouver Is/and,Aug. -Sept. 1926.Collection of Edward~allry.edge of the glacier was muddy and serrated. Every now and then a chunk of icefell into the sea. The sound of these falling ice - blocks was tremendous and wewaited for each one in tense excitement. For a whole hour we stood on deck, onlyhalf dressed beneath our overcoats, mute as pillars, watching that glacier. It was asad moment when we turned back from that apparently land-locked sea towardsthe Pacinc.It was during this voyage that Gwen and I had our nrst and last quarrel. It wasabout each other's hats. I told Gwen that her mustard-yellow felt hat was a foulcolour and was getting on my nerves; she retorted that mine was a misshapendisgrace. We exchanged hats to ease the situation and all was well, but when we gotto Seattle we went to a hat shop. Funds were running low, so we bought an electricblue hat for one dollar and wore it in turns to give ourselves a kind of cachet.We found Seattle most bewildering, the general hustle was like a cold windblowing in our faces, the cafeteria where we fed could seat 800 persons. "All thiscountry is on wheels," someone said to us and indeed we had the impression thateveryone was trying to move faster than their own steps could take them. Nearone beauty spot, we observed the notice: "Picture ahead. Kodak as you pass."Everywhere we felt the tyranny of the unforgiving minute. No one stopped still