C Ihe Ladies c cu. V'VVAN - History and Classics, Department of

220 Appendix 1spruce trees grows on one + thry begin to have a human feeling. Lunched in shade+ leisurelY no longer a'!Y hustle + at 2 0' c David announced we hadcome to portage or shortcut to Fort Yukon who he found aftersome search. 2 miles but a long hot 2 miles it was. We'd neverhave found it alone. Spruce trees undergrowth a boggy stretch withdry grass knee high + hay head-high + then at last a mile or so ofbeaten trail. A lovely scarlet chenopodium. And so in great heat toFort Yukon. Straight to Mr Anthony who sent his gas boat up withDavid for canoe, down river 2 miles + up 5. Fort Yukon a biggersettlement than we have seen + more prosperous neat palings +sidewalks big wireless station. We called on Mrs Burke atEnglish Mission a luxurious house with big room. Had a chat +were asked to stay but decided to camp on site 1/2 a mile aboveFort. Back to await canoe + had a talk with Willoughby Masonold-timer 52 just married taking his New York wife up Porcupine10 days up in gas boat. They won't see a soul till next june. Hisbrothergoestoo. "She is taking napkins this time!" He has beentrapping 21 years. Thry plan retiring to Los Angeles but "will she everget that man out?" the Mission ask themselves. Canoe camewaterlogged we unpacked hurriedly on bank shuffled into skirts+ to Mission at 7 to dine. Such a dinner + such a home. Dr.Burke fine sensitive overwrought face: Mrs. Burke happyhome-maker: a pecking woman from Los Angeles in silk stockingswho gets on Dr Burke's nerves: 3 men from geologicalsurvey down from Scheneck river. Such a meal of fish + lettuce+ asparagus + pineapple pie + coffee + then talk + hot baths inpalatial bathroom! both the Burkes steeped in North Country + a homefull of books + comfort. Home at 10.30 sending wireless to Englandsunset + moon rising over Yukon River.TUESDAY 27 JULYUp lazily + breakfast of Pork + Rice Balls at 10. We cleaned uppots + pans ... sorted clothes + had another meal + then paddledour canoe along to settlement + dropped the MP's sail atAnthony's + spent a cool aft. at Mission fixing up our pressedflowers + having tea. Miss Butler + another woman in to tea. Heatterrific. We paddled up a lovelY green + gold backwater. After supperGwen sketched the pink sky + I strolled along + had a V. interestingtalk with Harry Anthony who is steeped in the lure of the North: Carneup the Rat to Klondike talked of lonelY trappers + Michael Mason +Hudson Stuck-" a man who did all his own thinking You couldhand him nothing." Such aS9' pink, + smooth water. We are happilycamped nearly a mile from the settlement ... the empty Tins.WEDNESDAY 28 JULYBfast 10 or so Pork again. Rain last night. Blowing a hot gale. Mr Hunter camealong + had picnic lunch with us Marshal (M.P,) Butler to see canoe also a Mr.Macgregor. Aft. Gwen + I to Lake 7 mins: behind hospital very large crescentshape once more s~ of country strikes one anew for we had to take bearings to runcanoe back (Dr lent us his) into same groove of mares-tails. Stopped + chatted inhouse of a swede Burgland woman + 6 kids. Thry trap. She is happy as a Queen inher 1 room cabin + s~s life in the N is all sport + adventure meals so ea8' no socialties +c. One of her children at least bam when aw~ trapping with no woman athand. Every sou(you meet full of tales of the North. Bought tinned stuff coldsupper made fast our tent rising wind + then to call on Mr. Anthony.Enjoyed a chat with him as he looked at Gwen's sketches. Hetold us of a trip to Norman with Michael Mason staking oil claimsrations for 8 days + they travelled 19: last 4 or 5 days withoutFood: shortcutted onface of Bear Rock to save 12 miles + got into Norman. AnImperial Oil Co. man pinched their claim + delayed them, hencethe trouble + they had scrupled to take much of another man'scache. These tales thrill one + the lure of the North grows. He talked ofNorthern Lights too + how sound travels infros!Ji air + of the superstitions ofIndians.THURSDAY 29 JULYBfast at 10 in leisurelY fashion. Wind gone down. Cooked Puftalunas + thenstrolled up to the Fort: to the Marshal who had bought another canOe: to Missionfor drinking water the river being brown as coffee: saw Mr Mertie + his collectionof wildflowers. Backtoeoldlunch. Dr. Burke called for us +wewentwith him by del.ghtful trails thro' spruce forest (orange + red berries onground) to old Hudson Bay Co. burial ground. He was full ofstories about each graveyard. Then to the church with Indianbeadwork altar + Indian memorials (Indian chief wanted to putup "a fence" in memory of his wife 100$ oak altar rail). Thento Cemetery Archdeacon Stuck's grave + he talked much ofhim, a nne man. Then on to forther end of settlement + called onJoe Ward afine blue-ryed trapper W. Indian Squaw. Discussed marriages with Dr. Burke hewas full ofyarns of decent women throWing themselves aw~ on ne'er do wells: +then the reverse side, these fine men who are content with squaws. Then to seeFrank Foster who was building a boat a rich old-timer who"loafs around" traps a little + cannot leave the country. Hetalked of the Rat R. as he came up it in the Klondike rush of 98leaving Edmonton April 28 + reaching Klondike Sept: 6 weekson Rat. Brought I300 lbs food +c as far as Fort Yukon + thenfound there was plenty in the country: sandflies were awful. RatRiver water low. All these people full of interest. Called on MrMertie + Hunter to get them to auction our canoe tomorrow. Back to supper +