C Ihe Ladies c cu. V'VVAN - History and Classics, Department of

208 Appendix 1wood pile at breakfast time. Many mosquitos also bull dog flies: as arule mosquitoes dontfollow us on the boat. At 12.30 reached FortSimpson: fine situation on island at mouth of Liard riverstands on a high bank some big buildings. Wandered out alonetwice: thundershower. After supper to wireless station + India.Agency w. Judge Dubuc. Mr Harris the Indian agent hero of the priest tale comeon-All this "life" unreal: + the landings each time like a comicopera. One scene particularJy seemed unreal: I stood in RC churchentrance: from R + L of altar a gray Nun came slowly throughdoors with candlestick each mounted small stool + slowlysolemnly placed them on altar: old white bearded priest sayinghis rosary. Paper streamers adorned roof. All this seemedsomehow pathetically out of place w. the June sunshinepouring down outside on a raw settlement where 1/2 the necessitiesof life are missing + leagues of virgin forest stretch awayon either river bank. Thought of Italy + old R. C. churches withcentury old associations-Judge Dubuc introduced me w. the same politeceremo'!} he uses to one + all to an unshorn wood cutter who cut 200 cords ofwood one season: a cord is a pile 8ft. long fry 4 high of 4 ft logs + contains about150 or 200 pieces. When not cutting he traps sleeps out even in winter does notcore about sleeping in towns. Also introduced to Mr Harris Indian Agent who hasa fine library €I.-ed. (for these parts) Greek-Latin RLS-Dickens- Thacker'!J+c: but drinks like a fish + has married a 1/2 breed. So many come Northdrink driven + when here eke out a life of struggle + poverty.Glamour of the N orthyes but also the seamy side.SATURDAY 19 JUNENahanni=Fort SimpsonWoke at 4:30 to see a lovely range of barren hills bathed insunshine: 1st hills seen since Dartmoor M'!J 13th: think of it 5 weekstravel all flat. Quite a thrill. Gwen rather troubled night withankle + ditto all day: 2 very anxious days these are: we dare notthink too much about the Rat but just carry on. LoveJyscenery alld'!J. Passed a lump of ice 9 AM the steamer stopped + menbrought in huge blocks: vetch growing alongside. Wrigley atnoon. Small post with lovely views forward + back. Saw 2 storybuilding of Tim the H B Co Manager with upstairs kitchen +balcony: his own work. Fine rock opposite "La roche qui trempe dansl'eau." Whis!J bottle buried at top. Watched Mr. Harris bury old cove p'!Jingtrwry monty in a shan!)! to servile rather flatfaced Indians: the 3rd race we haveseen. Chipe,,!),ans at Smith hooknosed + handsome: Slaves at H'!J river flatnosed+ Mongolian. Found Cipripedium in bud at evening wood pile took on wood at10 AM and 9 PM: 2 hours stop at Wriglgy. Evening river spread outmore wider + flats + hills in turn: lovely blue lights + turns allday + some steepish cliffs like thetar sands again. Talked to YukonMP about his gravel River trip in search of 2 lost oil prospectors:winter travel: no tent: cut fir wood + clear snow. He also hasmet Steffannsons' men + has no good word for him: says he is aself advertiser who grudges credit to fellow-explorers. Gwenstuck fast all day + 100 arms to help her when she hopped:buzzing like bees with advice + enquiry.SUNDAY 20 JUNEArrived Fort Norman 2 AM. I got up 5:30 + went for walkalong beach + up Bear River 1/2 a mile: lovely fresh morning.Ice on edge of river. Bear Rock towering aX the river barren with3 pink patches of rock on it (Beaver skins Indian Legend) The RC church is muchpainted fry a priest. Fine chains of snowy capped mountains allround. G hopping round with less pain. Left Norman about 90' c. Very fine scenery all day snow capped Rockies wide river atreat. open world. Late in evening about 10:30 it seemed as ifour ship were charging a wall of rock + then the Rampartsopened + we slid into a narrow channel between these 100-200 ft straight walls oflimestone rock for 2 or 3 miles. a mostamazing show. Sans Sault rapids about an hour before that. Andso to bed with Fort Good Hope in Sight as we left the Ramparts. Thesenight landings at settlements are very trying: noise all night + most peopleSisters Mr Moran +c +c have to go ashore + do their business middle of the nightbut that doesn't seem to matter up here. Left Good Hope AM sometime + then hadto stop again + cut up drift wood being short.MONDAY 21 JUNECold + windy. About 10:30 came to a wood-pile with a shantywhere a Swede + a Luxumbourg man live: log cutting trappingfishing. The Flemish man took me in his canoe to fishing netswhere he had Corny Jack Fish Blue Fish: Thty had cut about 120cord of wood in the winter 6 dollars a cord s'!J £125 between them. It costs 2 men1000 to 1500 dollars to live on beans + bacon in theyear s'!J £100 to £150each. Summer slack time only fish + drying fish for dogs. TheFlemish man a V. good trapper caught 50 fares one season. He S'!JS "too ma'!}people up here,:" meaning Indians + fellow trappers. Andyet he ranges over 60miles of country + there is no sign of a human or a dwellingfor miles and miles.Does not pretend to like the life but has been here 20 years + has no use for jobs incities: "Man is too much like a dog. " Supposes he'll go "out" when he's taken.Grateful for some Edmonton May 31st daily papers we'dbrought for pressing flowers + says they'll read them 4 times.Wind + sandstorms. G still hobbling + not settingfoot to ground. Aft. verywindy sandstorms wide river stunted spruce very thin + scraggy