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C Ihe Ladies c cu. V'VVAN - History and Classics, Department of

C Ihe Ladies c cu. V'VVAN - History and Classics, Department of

C Ihe Ladies c cu. V'VVAN - History and Classics, Department of

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goTHE LADIES, THE GWICH'IN, AND THE RATIn a later visit the archdeacon was extremely helpful when he suggested that weshould persuade our guides to take us down as far as Sinclair's Point, nearShingle Rock, some 25 miles beyond La Pierre House, so that they might help usthrough the rapids in that stretch <strong>of</strong> the river. Our memor<strong>and</strong>um only told usthat "some swift water may be encountered before the Por<strong>cu</strong>pine is reached, butno rapids <strong>of</strong> dangerous proportions." Neither had our other two advisersmentioned these rapids as anything other than "swift water." However, weremembered the archdeacon's warning when we reached La Pierre House <strong>and</strong>our guides took us down to Shingle Rock.I had hoped to give Gwen interest <strong>and</strong> oc<strong>cu</strong>pation in pressing flowers for ourcollection but even wild flowers, like so many <strong>of</strong> life's luxuries, were scarce atAklavik <strong>and</strong> I only found a few species. These were bog bean, marsh-marigold,bearberry, lYrola, wild rose, yellow anemone, a small 0psophila, a pink Rubus threeinches high, <strong>and</strong> a dwarf form <strong>of</strong> grass-<strong>of</strong>-parnassus. For the rest vegetationconsisted mainly <strong>of</strong> silver willows, alder <strong>and</strong> the stunted spruce that seemed tohem us in completely on either bank <strong>of</strong> the river.One cold afternoon I walked for about three miles along the mud bank <strong>of</strong> theriver, intent on the bird life <strong>of</strong> the country. The mosquitoes were very troublesome.At one point there were ten northern ravens together; I also saw terns,semi-palmated plover, s<strong>and</strong>pipers <strong>and</strong> yellowshanks <strong>and</strong> the nest <strong>of</strong> a whisky-jackwith young birds. One day Canon Hester showed me a white-headed sparrow'snest on the ground, with four young. There were huge buzzards or eagles <strong>of</strong>ten tobe seen, with very serrated wing-tips <strong>and</strong> once I penetrated to the swamp behindour convent <strong>and</strong> saw many grackles, <strong>and</strong> also had a close-up view <strong>of</strong> six yellowshanksst<strong>and</strong>ing in a bed <strong>of</strong> bog bean. It was seldom, however, that I left the riverbank, for the undergrowth was impossible, with snags <strong>of</strong> fallen trees, grasstussocks between which one would stumble knee-deep, muskeg or spongy moss<strong>and</strong> clouds <strong>of</strong> mosquitoes.The best afternoon <strong>of</strong> all was when, after four days <strong>of</strong> slow stalking <strong>of</strong> the bird' smovements, I found a semi-palmated plover's nest with four eggs. It was on theground among the willows, <strong>and</strong> the bird had given the most amazing performance<strong>of</strong> defensive tactics before my search met with success. Again <strong>and</strong> again itflopped on the ground to entice me away from the nest, feigning to have a brokenwing, <strong>and</strong> fluttered within two yards <strong>of</strong> me. I went away hurriedly as soon as I hadfound the nest, <strong>and</strong> left that valiant mother bird in peace.

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