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Tidal Current Energy

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Wave<br />

crest<br />

Wave<br />

trough<br />

Water<br />

depth, h<br />

Figure 8.1 . Wave definitions.<br />

Wave<br />

height, H<br />

Wave <strong>Energy</strong><br />

Zero upcrossing<br />

period, T z<br />

Wavelength, l<br />

Wave velocity<br />

(Celerity), C<br />

131<br />

kinetic energy of the subsurface water particle movements. It should be noted<br />

that the wave motion is a moving energy packet and that the water particles do<br />

not move with the wave. They are simply agitated when the waves arrive and<br />

oscillate around some fixed position. Only the energy is transmitted through<br />

the water. An important point to note, though, is that waves begin to lose their<br />

energy as they come into shallower water near the shore.<br />

It is possible to calculate this transfer of energy by the waves, which then represents<br />

the power. A straightforward equation results which gives the power in<br />

kW�m � 1 as follows:<br />

Power per meter kW m<br />

� HT ⋅<br />

2 �1<br />

Mean<br />

water<br />

level<br />

where H is the height (meters) of the wave and T its period. The meter width is<br />

measured along the wave crest shown in Figure 8.1 perpendicular to the wave<br />

propagation direction. It must be noted that this is the time-averaged power<br />

over a wave cycle. There is also a dimensional constant equal to 1 that is not<br />

shown. The usual assumption for these monochromatic waves is that they are<br />

of small height compared with the wavelength and are referred to as linear<br />

waves. When the heights become large the theories must be modified to include<br />

‘ non-linear’ terms in the description of the waves.<br />

In the real ocean the situation described by monochromatic waves is not<br />

usually true, as successive wave heights and wave periods vary. A typical water<br />

surface is shown in Figure 8.2 .<br />

In the case of real sea waves, each wave has a different wave height and<br />

period, and so it is necessary to utilize some characteristic value to describe the<br />

sea state at any particular time. These characteristic values are the significant

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