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de copas<br />
wine bar<br />
MOVI MOVES<br />
When MOVI made an entrance with its rebellious statement, it was certainly a breath of fresh air in an industry that felt rather<br />
numb. However, that discursive strength failed to translate into a characteristic of wines. Some wine writers called for more<br />
daring and ir<strong>rev</strong>erent wines. Yet, as MOVI members would explain, the purpose of the movement is not to make natural, ancient or<br />
extreme wines. Their proposal is simply to make wines on a human scale, where winery owners take part in every step of the value<br />
chain, from growing of the grapes to sales. Under this concept, MOVI wines represent all the diversity of Chilean origins and styles<br />
on a small scale and present themselves with an original, casual, and appealing offer currently divided into three categories: The<br />
New Chile (wines originating in the new borders of Chile’s wine regions); Classic Reloaded (new versions of classic or traditional<br />
wines); Old is the New New (wines that rescue and project our valuable heritage of ancient vines).<br />
THE NEW CHILE<br />
Kingston Cariblanco Sauvignon Blanc 2012<br />
This Sauvignon Blanc from one of the coolest areas in Casablanca is<br />
a wine of great stature and concentration of flavors. With outspoken<br />
citrusy and tropical notes and a grassy side that grants complexity and<br />
freshness, Cariblanco boasts enticing structure and acidity. A ripe but<br />
remarkably fresh and deep wine made with patience, precision, and<br />
ease. “We bottle late and launch late,” says Courtney Kingston.<br />
Peumayén 2010<br />
These producers decided they would make their own wine with the<br />
grapes grown in vineyards planted in 1998 in the Panquehue area, next<br />
to river Aconcagua. A juicy and frugal wine made the artisan way, away<br />
from commercial pressure. They don’t have a winemaker. The family<br />
makes the decisions and participates in the entire process. If they don’t<br />
sell the wine, they just drink it. Life is good.<br />
Starry Night Syrah 2011<br />
This is a small project by the Atabales family in the María Pinto sector,<br />
on the foothills coastal mountain range in the Maipo Valley. Grapes are<br />
sourced from 8 hectares of Syrah and Pinot Noir surrounded by native<br />
woods. Produced with an artisan method, this Syrah boasts surprising<br />
light, juicy, and unconventional fruitiness. Ripe, even liquorous, but well<br />
accomplished.<br />
Trabún 2011<br />
Winemaker Sergio Avendaño never worked for a winery. He devoted his<br />
life to manage the apple grove his family owns in Requinoa and to play<br />
drums. Until he decided to plant 1.6 hectares of Syrah to make a wine<br />
that has surprised everybody from the first vintage due to its strength<br />
and honesty. Notes of charcuterie, black fruit, and lots of pepper.<br />
Freshness, balance, and beauty. Trabún explores and manages to seize<br />
this variety in its purest state.<br />
Polkura G+I Syrah 2010<br />
A Syrah from a slope with south orientation, where it attains the freshest<br />
and most extroverted personality. With amazing aromatic strength and<br />
complexity, this vintage shows notes of black fruit, violets, and pepper<br />
in a harmonic blend. A juicy, structured wine, but very elegant at the<br />
same time. “It’s the best thing I’ve done in my life,” says Sven Bruchfeld.<br />
Lagar de Bezana Syrah 2011<br />
Located in Codegua, in Alto Cachapoal, this project by the Bezanilla<br />
family stands out due to the freedom with which the winemaking team<br />
works with varieties and styles, successfully crafting an increasingly<br />
fresh wine, free of the excessive oak of its earlier vintages. You can feel<br />
the winds that blow down from the mountains, shaping the personality<br />
of this Syrah of great fruit concentration and ripeness, but also of<br />
pungent, round acidity.<br />
Tunquén Malbec 2011<br />
Brazilian husband and wife winemakers Marcos Attilio and Ángela<br />
Mochi fell madly in love with Casablanca, where they have developed<br />
their passion for cuisine and delicate and pungent wines. Such is the<br />
case of this juicy, spicy, round, and deeply red Malbec from El Mirador.<br />
A wine fermented with no rush. A wine to fall in love with.<br />
40 ▼ Vitis Magazine l marzo/abril 2014