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Collecting American Seashells 63<br />

valves are usually the easiest to boil and clean. Allow your pairs to dry in<br />

the flat, open or "butterfly" position, as this will permit ready inspection of<br />

the hinge teeth for identification purposes.<br />

There are many minute species which obviously cannot be boiled and<br />

picked clean. Shells less than one third of an inch may be soaked in seventy<br />

percent grain alcohol, and then placed in the sun to dry thoroughly. This<br />

strength of alcohol is also ideal for pickling squid, octopus or the soft parts<br />

of other mollusks. Isopropyl alcohol may be used, but it is best to use this<br />

at a fifty percent strength. Never use formaldehyde (or formalin) to pre-<br />

serve mollusks. The shell turns soft, loses color and often crumbles away in<br />

a few months.<br />

When a shell has been cleaned of its soft parts, it must next be prepared<br />

for the collection. Most shells are ready for display and most attractive in<br />

their natural state. However, a large number of gastropods, whose beauty<br />

is hidden by coral and algal growths, are in need of a certain amount of "face<br />

lifting." A stifl" brush, soapy water and diligence will usually suffice. Many<br />

collectors soak specimens in a strong chlorine solution for a few hours. This<br />

removes a great part of the unsightly growths and will not damage the shell.<br />

It will also remove the natural periostracum or thin corneous layer on the<br />

outside of the shell. However, when you have several specimens to add to<br />

your collection, it is best to keep at least one in its natural state.<br />

Very few expert collectors use acid in treating shells, since this often<br />

gives specimens a very unnatural, although colorful, sheen. It is used occasionally<br />

to remove limy deposits and to brighten up old specimens. Com-<br />

mercial dealers dip the Pink Queen Conch, for example, for five or ten sec-<br />

onds in a vat of one part muriatic acid to four parts of water and then rinse<br />

in fresh water. Shells may be dipped with forceps in full strength oxalic or<br />

muriatic acid for r^vo seconds and then immediately put under running cold<br />

water. This may be repeated until the desired effect is obtained, but it should<br />

be pointed out that any acid treatment ruins most shells for scientific study.<br />

Polishing abalone shells and cutting cross-sections of larger shells require<br />

special equipment such as electrically run burring wheels and circular diamond<br />

cutters. A visit to a shell factory will be of profit to those wishing to<br />

undertake this interesting hobby.<br />

THE SHELL COLLECTION<br />

Although seashells are easy to keep since they do not deteriorate and<br />

generally do not fade in color like many insects, they present many special<br />

problems in housing because of their many sizes and shapes. There are three<br />

general types of collections—the knickknack shelf, the display arrangement<br />

and the study collection.

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