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132 | DESTINATION GUIDES<br />

Edinburgh<br />

UK<br />

DIALLING CODE +44<br />

CURRENCY £<br />

FLY FROM<br />

Alicante,<br />

Amsterdam, Athens,<br />

Basel-Mulhouse,<br />

Belfast (BFS), Bristol,<br />

Cologne, Cyprus<br />

(Paphos), Dalaman,<br />

Geneva, Grenoble,<br />

Krakow, Lisbon, London<br />

(LGW, LTN, STN), Lyon,<br />

Madrid, Milan (MXP),<br />

Munich, Majorca,<br />

Naples, Nice, Paris<br />

(CDG), Tenerife<br />

FROM THE<br />

AIRPORT<br />

TAXI<br />

Pre-book your taxi<br />

at easyJet.com.<br />

A local taxi costs £15.<br />

The Airlink 100<br />

goes to the<br />

centre. Tickets: £3.50.<br />

Visit the Europcar<br />

desk for special<br />

easyJet rates.<br />

BON APPETIT<br />

UP TO €15<br />

Henderson’s @ St<br />

John’s (94 Hanover<br />

Street, tel: 0131 229<br />

0212) The vaulted café<br />

below St John’s at the<br />

west end of Princes<br />

Street is home to a new<br />

outpost of Edinburgh’s<br />

long-serving vegetarian<br />

venture. Great for<br />

a light lunch or<br />

coff ee and cake away<br />

from the crowds.<br />

Nigel<br />

before<br />

treatment<br />

UP TO €30 Indaba<br />

(3 Lochrin Terrace, tel:<br />

0131 221 1554) Tastes<br />

of Spain, Venezuela<br />

and South Africa meet<br />

in this small local<br />

restaurant in Tollcross.<br />

Handy for the King’s<br />

Theatre, the homecooked<br />

plates come<br />

tapas-style,<br />

with a healthy choice<br />

for vegetarians.<br />

The torta llorona<br />

(“crying cake”) is one<br />

to save room for.<br />

UP TO €50 The<br />

Grain Store (30<br />

Victoria Street, Old<br />

Town, tel: 0131 225<br />

7635) There’s a<br />

surprisingly homely<br />

and rustic charm to<br />

these upstairs grain<br />

vaults situated in the<br />

heart of the Old Town,<br />

thanks to the alcoves<br />

and bare stone walls.<br />

The menu is brief and<br />

focuses on Scottishsourced<br />

ingredients,<br />

with the saddle of<br />

Perthshire Venison<br />

a highlight of the<br />

á la carte menu.<br />

EXCLUSIVE<br />

Rhubarb<br />

(Prestonfi eld House,<br />

Southside, tel: 0131<br />

225 1333) The<br />

opulent dining rooms<br />

of this hotel provide<br />

a fantasy setting<br />

for a decadent<br />

dining experience.<br />

AFTER DARK<br />

LOW KEY Bow<br />

Bar (80 West Bow,<br />

Victoria Street, tel:<br />

0131 226 7667) This<br />

authentically recreated<br />

one-room Scottish bar<br />

is CAMRA’s Edinburgh<br />

pub of the year. There<br />

is always a good<br />

range of beers on tap,<br />

but the fi ne gantry is<br />

what draws the<br />

eye, with over 100<br />

diff erent whiskies<br />

to choose from.<br />

LIVE MUSIC Sandy<br />

Bell’s (25 Forrest<br />

Road, tel: 0131 225<br />

2751) Often packed<br />

and always lively, the<br />

nightly free music<br />

sessions in the corner<br />

of this central bar show<br />

off traditional Scottish<br />

music. The playing<br />

may not be technically<br />

perfect, but it is at its<br />

most vibrant<br />

and immediate.<br />

LATE & LIVELY<br />

Espionage (4 India<br />

Buildings, Victoria<br />

Street, tel: 0131 477<br />

7007) Five fl oors of<br />

night-time cavorting,<br />

with a diff erent club on<br />

each. Stays open until<br />

the wee small hours,<br />

making it a favourite<br />

with students,<br />

backpackers and<br />

locals alike. The drinks<br />

are (relatively) cheap<br />

and the music policy is<br />

all-embracing.<br />

THIS MONTH<br />

SHOP The Old<br />

Children’s Bookshelf<br />

is a treasure trove<br />

of nostalgia on the<br />

Royal Mile. You’ll fi nd<br />

old and collectable<br />

books for children,<br />

Weight Reduction Skin Retraction &<br />

FILLER ADVERT<br />

More free monthly guides available at traveller.easyjet.com<br />

with a strong focus on<br />

Scottish books, as well<br />

as prints, postcards<br />

and posters (175<br />

Canongate, Royal Mile,<br />

tel: 0131 558 3411).<br />

SEE The King’s<br />

Theatre has a month<br />

of great performances<br />

before it shuts for a<br />

major refurbishment.<br />

It kicks off with Simon<br />

Callow in Dr Marigold<br />

and Mr Chops,<br />

continuing with the<br />

National Theatre of<br />

Scotland’s production<br />

of Men Should Weep<br />

(2 Leven Street).<br />

GO Dean Village<br />

provides more than<br />

the two buildings of<br />

the Scottish National<br />

Gallery of Modern Art,<br />

situated on either side<br />

of Belford Road. The<br />

sprawling Victorian<br />

Dean cemetery is great<br />

for a wander, while the<br />

water of Leith is<br />

easily accessible.<br />

ESCAPE Rising up to<br />

the south of Edinburgh,<br />

just beyond the city<br />

bypass, the Pentland<br />

Hills are convenient for<br />

a day’s walking escape<br />

in the country and<br />

accessible by public<br />

transport. LRT buses<br />

No.10, to Torphin,<br />

and No.15, to Hillend,<br />

are convenient.<br />

NO WAY!<br />

Sir Alexander Dick<br />

of Prestonfi eld<br />

introduced rhubarb to<br />

Scotland in the early<br />

18th century, receiving<br />

a medal from the<br />

Royal Society for his<br />

innovative horticultural<br />

endeavours.<br />

Thom Dibdin<br />

Faro<br />

Portugal<br />

DIALLING CODE +351<br />

CURRENCY €<br />

FLY FROM<br />

Belfast (BFS),<br />

Bristol, Geneva,<br />

Glasgow, Liverpool,<br />

London (LGW, LTN,<br />

SEN, STN), Newcastle,<br />

Paris (ORY)<br />

FROM THE<br />

AIRPORT<br />

TAXI<br />

Pre-book your taxi<br />

at easyJet.com.<br />

The fare to Faro is<br />

about €10, Vilamoura<br />

€25, and Albufeira and<br />

Tavira €40.<br />

Eva buses<br />

go to various<br />

destinations.<br />

Visit the Europcar<br />

desk for special<br />

easyJet rates.<br />

capital, Paquete sits<br />

right on a raised<br />

BON APPETIT<br />

UP TO €15 Fim do<br />

Mundo (53 Rua Vasco<br />

da Gama, tel: 289 826<br />

299) Unfl atteringly<br />

called “the end of the<br />

world”, this plain but<br />

characterful local does<br />

what the Portuguese<br />

do so well: simple,<br />

good-value grilled<br />

chicken, meats and<br />

fi sh, which are best<br />

washed down with a<br />

fl agon of the local wine.<br />

UP TO €30 Chá<br />

Com Água Salgada<br />

(Apoio de Praia, Manta<br />

Rota, tel: 281 952<br />

856) The beautifully<br />

positioned Chá Com<br />

Água Salgada sits on<br />

the broad sands at<br />

Manta Rota, east of<br />

Faro. The smart beach<br />

restaurant specialises<br />

in the best local fi sh<br />

and seafood, including<br />

shrimps, tiger prawns,<br />

lobster, açorda de<br />

lingeuirão (bread<br />

sauce with razor<br />

clams) and various<br />

rice and meat dishes<br />

UP TO €50<br />

Restaurante<br />

Visconde (Pousada<br />

do Palácio de Estoi,<br />

Rua São José, tel: 289<br />

990 150) Set in the<br />

plush peach-coloured<br />

Palácio do Visconde<br />

de Estoi, just north<br />

of Faro, the pousada<br />

restaurant serves<br />

some fantastic local<br />

novelties: try the razor<br />

fi sh samosas, hare<br />

soup with white beans,<br />

Algarvian salads or<br />

the memorable boar<br />

cataplana with clams,<br />

sweet potatoes<br />

and pumpkin.<br />

EXCLUSIVE Vila<br />

Joya (Estrada da<br />

Praia da Galé, tel: 289<br />

591 795) Portugal’s<br />

only two Michelin star<br />

restaurant faces the<br />

beautiful sands of Praia<br />

da Galé. The Frenchinspired<br />

menu from<br />

chef Dieter Koschina<br />

uses local ingredients<br />

to create memorable<br />

dishes such as guinea<br />

fowl with truffl es<br />

and artichokes, black<br />

pork and chocolate<br />

mousse with<br />

ginger jelly.<br />

"Alizonne has transformed my life!"<br />

Nigel<br />

Lost 12st 7lbs<br />

with 34 weeks<br />

of treatment<br />

Contour Shaping WITHOUT SURGERY<br />

A Revolutionary Medical Treatment Programme<br />

0844 8001209 www.alizonne.co.uk<br />

(uk)<br />

preventative & cosmetic medicine<br />

Clinics Nationwide

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