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132 | DESTINATION GUIDES<br />
Edinburgh<br />
UK<br />
DIALLING CODE +44<br />
CURRENCY £<br />
FLY FROM<br />
Alicante,<br />
Amsterdam, Athens,<br />
Basel-Mulhouse,<br />
Belfast (BFS), Bristol,<br />
Cologne, Cyprus<br />
(Paphos), Dalaman,<br />
Geneva, Grenoble,<br />
Krakow, Lisbon, London<br />
(LGW, LTN, STN), Lyon,<br />
Madrid, Milan (MXP),<br />
Munich, Majorca,<br />
Naples, Nice, Paris<br />
(CDG), Tenerife<br />
FROM THE<br />
AIRPORT<br />
TAXI<br />
Pre-book your taxi<br />
at easyJet.com.<br />
A local taxi costs £15.<br />
The Airlink 100<br />
goes to the<br />
centre. Tickets: £3.50.<br />
Visit the Europcar<br />
desk for special<br />
easyJet rates.<br />
BON APPETIT<br />
UP TO €15<br />
Henderson’s @ St<br />
John’s (94 Hanover<br />
Street, tel: 0131 229<br />
0212) The vaulted café<br />
below St John’s at the<br />
west end of Princes<br />
Street is home to a new<br />
outpost of Edinburgh’s<br />
long-serving vegetarian<br />
venture. Great for<br />
a light lunch or<br />
coff ee and cake away<br />
from the crowds.<br />
Nigel<br />
before<br />
treatment<br />
UP TO €30 Indaba<br />
(3 Lochrin Terrace, tel:<br />
0131 221 1554) Tastes<br />
of Spain, Venezuela<br />
and South Africa meet<br />
in this small local<br />
restaurant in Tollcross.<br />
Handy for the King’s<br />
Theatre, the homecooked<br />
plates come<br />
tapas-style,<br />
with a healthy choice<br />
for vegetarians.<br />
The torta llorona<br />
(“crying cake”) is one<br />
to save room for.<br />
UP TO €50 The<br />
Grain Store (30<br />
Victoria Street, Old<br />
Town, tel: 0131 225<br />
7635) There’s a<br />
surprisingly homely<br />
and rustic charm to<br />
these upstairs grain<br />
vaults situated in the<br />
heart of the Old Town,<br />
thanks to the alcoves<br />
and bare stone walls.<br />
The menu is brief and<br />
focuses on Scottishsourced<br />
ingredients,<br />
with the saddle of<br />
Perthshire Venison<br />
a highlight of the<br />
á la carte menu.<br />
EXCLUSIVE<br />
Rhubarb<br />
(Prestonfi eld House,<br />
Southside, tel: 0131<br />
225 1333) The<br />
opulent dining rooms<br />
of this hotel provide<br />
a fantasy setting<br />
for a decadent<br />
dining experience.<br />
AFTER DARK<br />
LOW KEY Bow<br />
Bar (80 West Bow,<br />
Victoria Street, tel:<br />
0131 226 7667) This<br />
authentically recreated<br />
one-room Scottish bar<br />
is CAMRA’s Edinburgh<br />
pub of the year. There<br />
is always a good<br />
range of beers on tap,<br />
but the fi ne gantry is<br />
what draws the<br />
eye, with over 100<br />
diff erent whiskies<br />
to choose from.<br />
LIVE MUSIC Sandy<br />
Bell’s (25 Forrest<br />
Road, tel: 0131 225<br />
2751) Often packed<br />
and always lively, the<br />
nightly free music<br />
sessions in the corner<br />
of this central bar show<br />
off traditional Scottish<br />
music. The playing<br />
may not be technically<br />
perfect, but it is at its<br />
most vibrant<br />
and immediate.<br />
LATE & LIVELY<br />
Espionage (4 India<br />
Buildings, Victoria<br />
Street, tel: 0131 477<br />
7007) Five fl oors of<br />
night-time cavorting,<br />
with a diff erent club on<br />
each. Stays open until<br />
the wee small hours,<br />
making it a favourite<br />
with students,<br />
backpackers and<br />
locals alike. The drinks<br />
are (relatively) cheap<br />
and the music policy is<br />
all-embracing.<br />
THIS MONTH<br />
SHOP The Old<br />
Children’s Bookshelf<br />
is a treasure trove<br />
of nostalgia on the<br />
Royal Mile. You’ll fi nd<br />
old and collectable<br />
books for children,<br />
Weight Reduction Skin Retraction &<br />
FILLER ADVERT<br />
More free monthly guides available at traveller.easyjet.com<br />
with a strong focus on<br />
Scottish books, as well<br />
as prints, postcards<br />
and posters (175<br />
Canongate, Royal Mile,<br />
tel: 0131 558 3411).<br />
SEE The King’s<br />
Theatre has a month<br />
of great performances<br />
before it shuts for a<br />
major refurbishment.<br />
It kicks off with Simon<br />
Callow in Dr Marigold<br />
and Mr Chops,<br />
continuing with the<br />
National Theatre of<br />
Scotland’s production<br />
of Men Should Weep<br />
(2 Leven Street).<br />
GO Dean Village<br />
provides more than<br />
the two buildings of<br />
the Scottish National<br />
Gallery of Modern Art,<br />
situated on either side<br />
of Belford Road. The<br />
sprawling Victorian<br />
Dean cemetery is great<br />
for a wander, while the<br />
water of Leith is<br />
easily accessible.<br />
ESCAPE Rising up to<br />
the south of Edinburgh,<br />
just beyond the city<br />
bypass, the Pentland<br />
Hills are convenient for<br />
a day’s walking escape<br />
in the country and<br />
accessible by public<br />
transport. LRT buses<br />
No.10, to Torphin,<br />
and No.15, to Hillend,<br />
are convenient.<br />
NO WAY!<br />
Sir Alexander Dick<br />
of Prestonfi eld<br />
introduced rhubarb to<br />
Scotland in the early<br />
18th century, receiving<br />
a medal from the<br />
Royal Society for his<br />
innovative horticultural<br />
endeavours.<br />
Thom Dibdin<br />
Faro<br />
Portugal<br />
DIALLING CODE +351<br />
CURRENCY €<br />
FLY FROM<br />
Belfast (BFS),<br />
Bristol, Geneva,<br />
Glasgow, Liverpool,<br />
London (LGW, LTN,<br />
SEN, STN), Newcastle,<br />
Paris (ORY)<br />
FROM THE<br />
AIRPORT<br />
TAXI<br />
Pre-book your taxi<br />
at easyJet.com.<br />
The fare to Faro is<br />
about €10, Vilamoura<br />
€25, and Albufeira and<br />
Tavira €40.<br />
Eva buses<br />
go to various<br />
destinations.<br />
Visit the Europcar<br />
desk for special<br />
easyJet rates.<br />
capital, Paquete sits<br />
right on a raised<br />
BON APPETIT<br />
UP TO €15 Fim do<br />
Mundo (53 Rua Vasco<br />
da Gama, tel: 289 826<br />
299) Unfl atteringly<br />
called “the end of the<br />
world”, this plain but<br />
characterful local does<br />
what the Portuguese<br />
do so well: simple,<br />
good-value grilled<br />
chicken, meats and<br />
fi sh, which are best<br />
washed down with a<br />
fl agon of the local wine.<br />
UP TO €30 Chá<br />
Com Água Salgada<br />
(Apoio de Praia, Manta<br />
Rota, tel: 281 952<br />
856) The beautifully<br />
positioned Chá Com<br />
Água Salgada sits on<br />
the broad sands at<br />
Manta Rota, east of<br />
Faro. The smart beach<br />
restaurant specialises<br />
in the best local fi sh<br />
and seafood, including<br />
shrimps, tiger prawns,<br />
lobster, açorda de<br />
lingeuirão (bread<br />
sauce with razor<br />
clams) and various<br />
rice and meat dishes<br />
UP TO €50<br />
Restaurante<br />
Visconde (Pousada<br />
do Palácio de Estoi,<br />
Rua São José, tel: 289<br />
990 150) Set in the<br />
plush peach-coloured<br />
Palácio do Visconde<br />
de Estoi, just north<br />
of Faro, the pousada<br />
restaurant serves<br />
some fantastic local<br />
novelties: try the razor<br />
fi sh samosas, hare<br />
soup with white beans,<br />
Algarvian salads or<br />
the memorable boar<br />
cataplana with clams,<br />
sweet potatoes<br />
and pumpkin.<br />
EXCLUSIVE Vila<br />
Joya (Estrada da<br />
Praia da Galé, tel: 289<br />
591 795) Portugal’s<br />
only two Michelin star<br />
restaurant faces the<br />
beautiful sands of Praia<br />
da Galé. The Frenchinspired<br />
menu from<br />
chef Dieter Koschina<br />
uses local ingredients<br />
to create memorable<br />
dishes such as guinea<br />
fowl with truffl es<br />
and artichokes, black<br />
pork and chocolate<br />
mousse with<br />
ginger jelly.<br />
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