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170 | DESTINATION GUIDES More free monthly guides available at traveller.easyjet.com<br />
Pristina<br />
Kosovo<br />
DIALLING CODE +381<br />
CURRENCY €<br />
FLY FROM<br />
Basel-Mulhouse,<br />
Geneva<br />
FROM THE<br />
AIRPORT<br />
TAXI<br />
Pre-book your taxi<br />
at easyJet.com.<br />
A local taxi costs €25.<br />
Visit the Europcar<br />
desk for special<br />
easyJet rates.<br />
BON APPETIT<br />
UP TO €30<br />
PanExpert (1 Rruga<br />
Bajram Kelmendi,<br />
tel: 044 197 520) For<br />
a quick and healthy<br />
snack, there’s no<br />
better place than this<br />
German bakery in<br />
central Pristina, which<br />
has delicious fresh<br />
bread, sandwiches,<br />
cake and more.<br />
EXCLUSIVE Puro<br />
(Veternik, tel: 038 602<br />
099) A short taxi drive<br />
south of town, mingle<br />
with ambassadors<br />
and business bigwigs<br />
at this sleek gourmet<br />
restaurant and cocktail<br />
bar. Try some of the<br />
excellent homemade<br />
cakes and pastries.<br />
AFTER DARK<br />
LOW KEY Studio<br />
53 (5 Rruga Rexhep<br />
Luci, tel: 045 611<br />
111) As if there are<br />
not enough great<br />
places to get coff ee<br />
in this city of café<br />
connoisseurs, this<br />
new bar is the local<br />
embassy for the<br />
Italian Attibassi<br />
coff ee brand. Sip your<br />
excellent espresso<br />
or cappuccino,<br />
people-watch from<br />
the terrace, or dig<br />
into a meal.<br />
LATE & LIVELY<br />
The Ninety-One<br />
(Rruga Luan<br />
Haradinaj, tel: 044 221<br />
991) Pristina’s premier<br />
pub has everything<br />
you need for a night of<br />
debauchery: decent<br />
food, various beers<br />
on tap, cocktails<br />
and occasional<br />
karaoke nights.<br />
THIS MONTH<br />
GO The Peja Street<br />
Fair <strong>2011</strong> is held on<br />
10 and 11 November,<br />
from around noon<br />
until 7pm. A trade<br />
fair with information<br />
on what to see and<br />
do in the region,<br />
visitors can<br />
expect cultural<br />
performances, crafts,<br />
wine tasting and<br />
plenty of traditional<br />
food and drink.<br />
NO WAY!<br />
Pristina grew from<br />
a small rural town to<br />
a national capital in<br />
just a few decades.<br />
Wonderful old photos<br />
comparing before<br />
and after can be<br />
viewed online and<br />
there’s also a book.<br />
Jeroen van Marle,<br />
inyourpocket.com<br />
<br />
Holiday House Bocci - Foligno - Umbria<br />
Rome<br />
Italy<br />
DIALLING CODE +39<br />
CURRENCY €<br />
FLY FROM<br />
Amsterdam,<br />
Athens, Basel-<br />
Mulhouse, Berlin,<br />
Bilbao, Bristol, Corfu,<br />
Crete (Heraklion),<br />
Dubrovnik, Düsseldorf,<br />
Geneva, Ibiza, Lisbon,<br />
London (LGW), Lyon,<br />
Madrid, Majorca,<br />
Malta, Milan (MXP),<br />
Mykonos, Nice,<br />
Palermo, Paris (ORY),<br />
Split, Toulouse, Venice<br />
FROM THE<br />
AIRPORT<br />
TAXI<br />
A local taxi costs<br />
about €40.<br />
The Bus Shuttle<br />
takes you to<br />
Termini station. Buy<br />
onboard, tickets: €15.<br />
Metropolitan<br />
FM1 trains go to<br />
Tiburtina until 12am.<br />
Tickets: €5.50.<br />
Visit the Europcar<br />
desk for special<br />
easyJet rates.<br />
BON APPETIT<br />
UP TO €15 Mario’s<br />
(53 Via del Moro,<br />
tel: 06 580 3809) A<br />
traditional low-key and<br />
inexpensive family-run<br />
restaurant in the<br />
heart of Trastevere.<br />
Go for the excellent<br />
ravioli and vegetable<br />
antipasti, but take<br />
an extra pullover<br />
because, like many<br />
places in Rome, it is<br />
not heated very well<br />
at this time of year.<br />
UP TO €30 Osteria<br />
dell’Angelo (24 Via<br />
G. Bettolo, tel: 06 372<br />
9470) Bordering the<br />
Prati and Trionfale<br />
districts, Angelo<br />
Croce’s restaurant is<br />
buzzing and popular,<br />
especially, bizarrely<br />
enough, among<br />
the city’s rugby<br />
fans. The cooking is<br />
typically Roman with<br />
traditional delicacies<br />
such as cow’s tail.<br />
UP TO €50 Uno<br />
e Bino (58 Via degli<br />
Equi, San Lorenzo,<br />
tel: 06 446 0702)<br />
Outstanding gourmet<br />
food that refl ects the<br />
Gravina family roots<br />
in Umbria and Sicily.<br />
Try their wonderful<br />
Parmiggiano souffl é<br />
or if you are feeling<br />
adventurous, the<br />
octopus salad.<br />
Edy (4 Vicolo del<br />
Babuino, tel: 06<br />
3600 1738) An<br />
elegant family-run<br />
establishment. The<br />
tagliatelli all Greca<br />
(fresh pasta with<br />
aubergine, feta and<br />
olives) is delicious,<br />
and their house red<br />
is more than passable.<br />
EXCLUSIVE<br />
Le Sans Souci (20<br />
Via Sicilia, tel: 06<br />
4201 4510)<br />
Dine in beautiful<br />
surroundings on<br />
delights such as duckdove<br />
in a millefeuille<br />
crust, tortelli with<br />
truffl es, or steamed<br />
sea bass prepared<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
under the exacting<br />
gaze of chef<br />
Bruno Borghesi.<br />
AFTER DARK<br />
LOW KEY Latteria<br />
del Gallo (4 Vicolo<br />
del Gallo, tel: 06 686<br />
5091) Take a trip back<br />
to the 1950s and<br />
1960s in the<br />
city centre’s last<br />
old-style milk bar. Old<br />
football posters peel<br />
off the walls along<br />
with the paint.<br />
LIVE MUSIC<br />
Be Bop Jazz and<br />
Blueslive Club (14<br />
Via Giulietti, tel: 06<br />
5728 8959) In the<br />
thankfully pong-free<br />
surroundings of<br />
a former cheese<br />
factory, this warm<br />
and welcoming club<br />
is great for live music,<br />
largely jazz and blues.<br />
LATE & LIVELY<br />
Saponeria (20 Via<br />
degli Argonauti, tel:<br />
06 574 6999) La<br />
Saponeria (the Soap<br />
Factory) is host to<br />
some of Italy’s leading<br />
EXCLUSIVE<br />
Camponeschi (50<br />
Piazza Farnese, tel:<br />
06 687 4927) Enjoy a<br />
fi rst course of superb<br />
tagliolini souffl é<br />
fl avoured with porcini<br />
mushrooms and<br />
then for main try<br />
the partridge.<br />
DJs. Only open from<br />
Thursday–Saturday,<br />
but always teeming<br />
with customers on<br />
those nights.<br />
THIS MONTH<br />
SHOP Antonella<br />
& Fabrizio is a<br />
discount store selling<br />
big labels such as<br />
Calvin Klein Jeans,<br />
DKNY and Armani<br />
Jeans (Corso Vittorio<br />
Emmanuele II).<br />
SEE Don’t miss the<br />
Rome Jazz Festival.<br />
An array of<br />
international artists<br />
will be in town to<br />
perform at the ultramodern<br />
Auditorium<br />
Parco della Musica<br />
on 11–30 November.<br />
GO Take refuge for<br />
an evening in Piazza<br />
San Lorenzo in Lucina<br />
with its fashionable<br />
wine bars, historic<br />
cafés, and altogether<br />
more chilled-out vibe.<br />
ESCAPE Carved<br />
out of an enormous<br />
plateau of volcanic<br />
rock, the centre<br />
of Orvieto is a<br />
wonderful place for<br />
lunch, an afternoon<br />
passeggiata (stroll)<br />
or a glass of wine.<br />
NO WAY!<br />
Many people still<br />
talk the old Roman<br />
way, which among<br />
other things means<br />
chopping the ends<br />
off most words. For<br />
example, “let’s eat”<br />
in standard Italian is<br />
andiamo a mangiare,<br />
while in Romanaccio<br />
it becomes namo<br />
a magna.<br />
Alan Goldwater
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