november-2011

IT MIGHT BE COLD OUTSIDE, BUT
meat is sizzling hot on the Stockholm
culinary scene right now. While food
critics solemnly argue over burgers,
bickering about how to grind the meat
and whether buns need to be sprinkled
with sesame seeds or not, nose-to-tail
eating has become the latest gourmet
vogue across town and many eateries
now offer a variety of exotic animals on
their menus.
Indeed, meat is the revered focus of
nearly every new, high-profi le restaurant
venture currently opening its doors in
the Swedish capital and it’s turning the
the city into a carnivore’s must-visit.
With all this delicious protein on offer,
just be sure to eat your vegetables too.
MEET THE MEAT
Serious food connoisseurs want to know
as much as possible about the meat and
this is the inspiration for the new wave
of eateries where you see the cuts before
they’re cooked. See them at:
KÖTTBAREN It doubles as a deli selling
bacon chips at the counter, but before
you move into the bistro section, be sure
to study the steaks and sausages in the
refrigerated display window.
32 Tegnérgatan; tel: +46 (0)8 5052
4426, kottbaren.se
AG (below) After going up two fl ights
of residential stairs, the fi rst thing that
meets you is a large glass refrigerator
displaying dry-aged cuts of beef. The
porterhouse with creamed spinach and
hash browns for two is the big seller,
despite the price tag of SEK 875 (€95).
37 Kronobergsgatan; tel: +46 (0)8 4106
8100, restaurangag.se
“GREEN” MEAT
Nose-to-tail eating was pioneered
by Fergus Henderson of the St John
restaurant in London. His idea of
using all the parts of an animal (locally
sourced and organicaly reared, of
course) has been hailed as the most
humane and sustainable way to enjoy
meat, and now the trend has come to
Stockholm. Give it a go at:
DJURET Swedish for “the animal”,
this forest-green restaurant, decorated
with meat charts, bull’s-eye tablecloths
and stuffed animals serves the whole
beast, one at a time. On a recent visit, a
cow from acclaimed local organic beef
producer Upplandsbonden was on offer.
5 Lilla Nygatan; tel: +46 (0)8 5064
0084, djuret.se
SVARTENGRENS All the meat
hails from local, free-range farms that
raise animals on natural diets and
have their own slaughtering facilities
to bypass stressful transports, which
can harm the animal and the taste.
Sausages are house-made to minimise
waste and you might fi nd gizzards
on the menu. On a recent visit, lamb
sweetbreads and marrow were on offer,
as well as T-bone steak and pork belly.
24 Tulegatan; tel: +46 (0)8 612 6550,
svartengrens.se
EXOTIC BARBECUE
Some attribute the current meat
craze to actor-turned-celebrity-chef
and proud hunter Per Moberg, as his
macho TV shows and cookbooks revolve
around big hunks of meat. As a result,
grill houses serving BBQ-style foods
have been popping up across the city,
often offering exotic cuts. For he-man
eating, you can try:
STOCKHOLM STEAKHOUSE
Head here for a more home-grown
approach to exoticism, where
you’ll fi nd wild things from
the Nordic forests paired with
Swedish spirits, such as akvakvit
(aquavit) and brännvin (a vodka
liqueur). Game is the name of the
game here – how about an elk
sausage or smoked reindeer?
67 Drottninggatan; tel: +46 (0)8
102 953, stockholmsteakhouse.se
GRILL (above right) Breaking all the
rules of Scandinavian minimalism,
THE BUZZ | TASTE BUDS
this gaudy Alice-in-Wonderland-esque
restaurant serves meats from fi ve
different parts of the world, prepared
on fi ve types of grills, in eight kitschy
dining rooms modelled on, for example,
Versailles or the Moulin Rouge. Kobe
beef from Japan, strip loin from
North Dakota and Black Angus from
Argentina are some of the imported
delicacies on offer.
89 Drottninggatan; tel: +46 (0)8 314
530, grill.se
GOURMET BURGERS
Previously associated with greasy
fast-food joints, the burger has been
upgraded and now even Michelinstarred
restaurants in the capital are
serving them. Enjoy one at:
MATHIAS DAHLGREN At 65g,
Stockholm’s priciest hamburger is small
but juicy, coated in melted Gruyère
cheese and served on a butter-soaked
piece of toast. It will set you back a
whopping SEK 350 (€38). Grand Hôtel,
6 Södra Blasieholmshamnen; tel: +46
(0)8 679 3584, mathiasdahlgren.com
PUBOLOGI This designer gastro-pub
in touristy Gamla Stan (the Old Town)
serves a 300g, charcoal-grilled, Comtécheese-draped
burger (SEK 260 [€28])
to fi ll even the hungriest soul. We have
an important tip for you though: avoid
the communal table if you don’t want
strangers to see you with juices dripping
down your chin.
20 Stora Nygatan; tel: +46
(0)8 5064 0086, pubologi.se
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TRAVELLER | 47