november-2011

I was looking across a
huge glittering bay to
Mount Olympus and I
began to be amazed
a huge, glass-topped construction built in 1922,
where there are tavernas tucked between stalls
laden with fresh produce. It is the noisiest, most
aromatic place I have ever been and well worth a visit.
When I got home after that fi rst trip, I read Mark
Mazower’s Salonica: City of Ghosts, which explains
why Thessaloniki developed the way it has. I found
the 20th-century events that shaped it particularly
enthralling. And the kernel of an idea for a novel began
to form in my mind.
In 1917, the 150,000-strong population was
split between Greek Orthodox Christians, Jews
and Muslims. During the Middle Ages, the latter
formed the majority and you can see the legacy in
the form of a minaret next to the Church of Agios
Georgios and in the many Turkish-style buildings,
including one in the centre (75 Apostolou Pavlou
Street), which was the birthplace of Kemal Atatürk,
founder of the Turkish Republic.
From left, enjoying a
coff ee in one of
Ladadika’s cafés; you
can walk for kilometres
along the seafront
esplanade; and below,
colourful spices on sale
at Modiano Market
FEATURE | THESSALONIKI
For almost the whole of the 20th century,
Thessaloniki was torn apart by a series of dramatic
events that shaped the place and left much behind,
forcing a large proportion of both the Muslim and
Jewish populations into exile.
This history seemed very present on its streets
– making it a perfect setting for my imaginary
characters. The questions that I asked myself were:
“What would it have been like to live through these
times?” “How did people survive?” and “What does
their history mean to people today?” In my many
subsequent visits to Thessaloniki, these were the
things that preoccupied me as I began to form the
story for The Thread.
Visitors should begin with a trip the White Tower,
the city’s landmark monument. Climbing to the top,
you get a good view of the city, so you can get your
bearings. However, the best way to get oriented is to
walk, and much of my research comprised simply
wandering the streets. For me, there was no greater
pleasure than to stroll alone, making frequent stops
for coffee and one of the triangular, cream-fi lled
pastries that the city is famous for – usually at
Terkenlis (on theccorner of Tsimiski and Aristotelous
Streets; terkenlis.gr), near Aristotelous Square.
TRAVELLER | 57