november-2011

WORDS LAURA MARTIN | ILLUSTRATION © MARC ASPINALL I PHOTOS © ALAMY
GO “OSTALGIE”
1. Clärchens Ballhaus
This historic venue has been hosting
balls and dances since 1913, but now
the oldies on the dance fl oor are being
joined by a younger crowd, with the likes
of DJ T-INA Darling hitting the decks and
playing anything from jive to house. Be
sure to tip cloakroom attendant Günther
– he’s been working here for 40 years.
Clärchens Ballhaus, 24 Augustraße,
tel: +49 (0)30 282 9295, ballhaus.de
2. Arkonaplatz fl ohmarkt
Every Sunday, from 10am to 6pm, the
Arkonaplatz fl ea market in Mitte is where
Berlin hipsters fl ock to pick up retro
furnishings: antique chairs, old-fashioned
suitcases, vintage clothing and cool
knick-knacks. Stock up on originals and
take a piece of the GDR home with you.
Arkonaplatz, Mitte. Nearest U-bahn:
Bernauer Straße
3. Themroc
Tired of modern-day anxiety over menu
choice? This cult restaurant is a kickback
to the old days of communal dining,
when guests were only off ered one
choice of starter, main and dessert. The
intimate setting and change from €30
for a three-course dinner with wine also
makes it feel happily historical.
Themroc, 183 Torstraße, tel: +49 (0)30
282 4474, themroc-berlin.de
4. Trabi Safari
The Trabant – or Trabi – car was once
seen as the symbol of the GDR in East
Germany. Several have now been lovingly
restored, giving fans old and new the
chance to wrestle with an ancient engine
on a self-drive Trabi Safari tour of Berlin.
97 Zimmerstraße; tel: +49 (0)30 2759
2273, trabi-safari.de
5. Kaff ee Burger
This late-night bar and gig venue fi rst
opened in 1890. It was a drinking den for
theatrical and literary types throughout
the years hinter der Wand (behind the
Wall), but a new generation now come for
raucous gigs and club nights.
60 Torstraße; tel: +49 (0)30 2804 6495,
kaff eeburger.de
6. Volkskammer
A design restaurant which marries sleek,
high-end East German and Soviet décor
with a wide and varied menu of classic
dishes and drinks, Try peppered steak
washed down with a Vita Cola – the
GDR’s anti-Western version of Coca Cola.
18b Straße der Pariser Kommune; tel:
+49 (0)30 2068 7549, volkskammer.de
THE BUZZ | OSTALGIE MAP
Q&A
Daniel Helbig
He joined the zeitgeist when he
opened Ostel, a designer boutique
hostel with a twist. Set up to recreate
the lifestyle of the GDR in the
1970s (think East German chic),
the concrete tower-block hotel has
rooms decorated in orange and
brown, with retro plastics and heavy
use of linoleum.
Why a hotel themed on the past?
“We wanted to give a bit of love back
for the GDR-inspired décor. It’s been
a really popular concept since we
opened, and those who lived through
the time who have visited think it’s
really authentic.”
Why do you think people like it?
“I was born during the GDR myself
and lived in the Mitte area of Berlin.
For me, it’s certain types of furniture,
a lamp or particular wallpaper that
really take me back. We’ve tried to
re-create this in the hotel.”
Why is this trend happening?
“I think part of the reason this
old-East trend is returning now
is the idea of nostalgia and the desire
to experience a simpler and calmer
time. It’s unique to Berlin – it’s not
a concept that’s transferable to
other cities.
“There’s romanticism, looking at it
now from a present-day perspective,
as there were no emails, no faxes –
not even enough telephones to go
around! You had quality time for the
real things in life.”
At Ostel Hostel, choose from a family
apartment, double room or a bed in a
dorm room. 5 Wriezener Karree;
tel: +49 (0)30 2576 8660, ostel.eu
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