Year of publication 1960 - Fell and Rock Climbing Club

More documents

Recommendations

Info

EDITOR'S NOTES 97He sends his best wishes to the Club, as do also Alf and Joyce Mullanwith whom Molly stayed at Denver.The universal popularity of colour photography has had seriousconsequences for the Journal. Monochrome prints (which arerequired for the half-tone blocks) cannot of course be made directlyfrom colour transparencies and experience indicates that it must bevery rare to get professionally made prints which are good enoughfor reproduction, no doubt because both skill and time are essential.I am therefore greatly indebted to Douglas Milner who has mostkindly made the prints (three of them from colour transparencies)which illustrate Gunn Clark's article on the North Face of theGrandes Jorasses and I should like to say a special word of thanksto him.This seems a suitable opportunity for appealing to those memberswho still work in monochrome to submit prints which they thinkmight be of interest. Photographs of rock climbs, particularly newones or those of high standard, are always welcome as, indeed, areLake District subjects in general. I am grateful to Jack Carswellfor sending a batch of prints one of which I am glad to have beenable to include in this number.The Editor's thanks are due to everyone who has helped with theJournal including the printers (who, by their co-operation, haveenabled the date of publication to be advanced) and the authors ofall the items which appear in this number. Special mention must bemade of Peter Moffat who has looked after Climbs Old and New forseven years and whose job has increased so much; and of MaryGreenbank who spent many hours typing the new climbs.Geoffrey Stevens has, once again, most generously read the finalproofs—a considerable task which has to be performed at short noticeand in a matter of days. The knowledge that there is a check at thisstage is of incalculable benefit to an editor, and it is difficult to findwords adequately to express my appreciation and thanks.In conclusion, on behalf of the Club, I should like to congratulateMary Glynne on receiving the O.B.E., G. F. Peaker on receiving theC.B.E., A. B. Hargreaves on being elected President of the Climbers'Club, and John Jackson on being appointed Warden of Plas-y-Brenin.Perhaps it might not be inappropriate to congratulate here Brigidand Elspeth Ackerley on having made the tour of the Lake District3,000-ers in 23| hours from the Salving House at the Whit meet.Although it is not uncommon for this walk to be done by men, it isnot so frequently undertaken by women and, in this particular case,Brigid and Elspeth had the further trial of having to catch a bus at7 a.m. on Whit Tuesday for Southampton, after returning to theSalving House in the small hours of the same morning.July, 1960MURIEL FILES.
CLIMBING BOOK 1893-1906A note by J. C. AppleyardMr. George Abraham of Keswick has generously presented to theClub The Climbing Book, a manuscript volume compiled by twoearly Lake District climbers the brothers G. D. and C. W. Barton.It consists of accounts of ascents (a number of them first ascents)in the Lakes, Wales and Derbyshire, between 1893 and 1906,together with extracts from the original Wasdale Climbing Book,numerous magazine and newspaper cuttings and many photographs,the excellent quality of which, after over half a century, is remarkable.In addition there are a number of letters from such well-knownclimbers as O. G. Jones, W. P. Haskett Smith and J. W. Robinson.Probably the most interesting item is an eye-witness account ofthe first ascent of Botterill's Slab contained in a letter to G. D.Barton from W. E. Webb. Both, I think, were original membersof this Club. j u n e 9th> 1903'There was a remarkable chap named Botterill of Leeds stayingat the Temperance Hotel and he simply mopped up everything.Hearing he was after the long crack leading up to KeswickBrothers final chimney I went up to see the fun.Botterill took a small axe up and cleared lots of moss out of thecrack and worked up it until it became impossible. He thenmanaged to traverse out across about 12 feet of smooth slab at anangle of 75 degrees with the minutest of holds, on to a shockingoverhanging arete. He said afterwards that the arete was worse thanthe Eagle's Nest. After a time the arete became impossible and hemanaged to get back into the crack and then the dangers of theclimb were over.'I feel that one of our historical enthusiasts might study thisvolume with profit as it must be one of very few books giving anaccount of climbing done in this district over a period of elevenconsecutive years in the early climbing days.EXPOSURE METERS AND COMPASS ERRORSA warning on this subject based on information provided byMr. B. R. Goodfellow has been circulated to club secretaries by theBritish Mountaineering Council (Circular No. 281). As it is of greatgeneral interest it is quoted below:Many climbers do not seem to know that a photographic exposuremeter can seriously upset compass readings. Nowadays the meterswhich many mountain photographers carry are generally photoelectric.This type contains a small magnet which is so powerfulthat it can deflect a compass needle a yard away and can completelyreverse a reading a foot away. This means a lightmeter in a pocketor even in a rucksack can lead to bad mistakes in route finding.The remedy is obvious; walkers, climbers (and others such as yachtsmen)should try the effect of their own meters on their own compassesand then remember before taking compass readings to placetheir lightmeter far enough away.
Page 1 and 2:
ft'H. P. SMLSBURY (President, 19.5K
Page 3 and 4:
CONTENTSPAGEThe North Face of the G
Page 5 and 6:
2 NORTH FACE OF GRANDES JORASSESpai
Page 7 and 8:
4 NORTH FACE OF GRANDES JORASSESdur
Page 9 and 10:
EXTREMES AND EXCESSESHarold DrasdoT
Page 11 and 12:
8 EXTREMES AND EXCESSESget attached
Page 13 and 14:
1(1 EXTREMES AND EXCESSESLater it w
Page 15 and 16:
12 THE EVENING ALPSnice bed here, o
Page 17 and 18:
14 THE EVENING ALPSindeed awaiting
Page 21 and 22:
18 THE EVENING ALPSmaxim: nature ab
Page 23 and 24:
20 THE EVENING ALPSa party of four
Page 25 and 26:
2.2 THE EVENING ALPSCanadian proble
Page 27 and 28:
THE MOUNTAINS OF MOURNEPeter Grindl
Page 29 and 30:
26 THE MOUNTAINS OF MOURNEthe Spelg
Page 31 and 32:
Peter Grindley 27the line in a very
Page 33 and 34:
Peter Grindley 29But this is a digr
Page 35 and 36:
G. Oliver 31to the next pitch which
Page 37 and 38:
G. Oliver 33Phil Gordon was leading
Page 39 and 40:
G. Oliver 35The second pitch, which
Page 41 and 42:
SOME SCOTTISH SCRAMBLESTerry Sulliv
Page 43 and 44:
Terry Sullivan 39here things went u
Page 45 and 46:
A BRAKING HITCHJohn C. LythThis hit
Page 47 and 48:
John C. Lyth 43
Page 49 and 50:
John C. Lyth 45The rope is laid as
Page 51 and 52: CLIMBS OLD AND NEWEAGLE CRAGTRAPEZE
Page 53 and 54: Peter Moffat 49(2) 65 feet. Continu
Page 55 and 56: Peter Moffat 51right, round a rib,
Page 57 and 58: Peter Moffat 53(2) 100 feet. The be
Page 59 and 60: Peter Moffat 55stance with good fla
Page 61 and 62: Peter Moffat 57(2) 70 feet. Travers
Page 63 and 64: Peter Moffat 59(3) 60 feet. Climb u
Page 65 and 66: Peter Moffat 61LANGDALEGIMMER CRAGK
Page 67 and 68: Peter Moffat 63above almost to a ju
Page 69 and 70: Peter Moffat 65(4) 80 feet. This pi
Page 71 and 72: Peter Moffat 67the final overhangin
Page 73 and 74: IN MEMORIAMHENRY BRAITHWAITE, 1906-
Page 75 and 76: IN MEMORIAM 71of an observant and i
Page 77 and 78: IN MEMORIAM 73years all school holi
Page 79 and 80: IN MEMORIAM 75number of years a Lib
Page 81 and 82: IN MEMORIAM 77assert that, protecte
Page 83 and 84: CLIMBS AND EXPEDITIONS 79He carried
Page 85 and 86: CLIMBS AND EXPEDITIONS 81Terry Sull
Page 87 and 88: THE YEAR WITH THE CLUBHarry Ironfie
Page 89 and 90: ANNUAL DINNER, 1959F. H. F. Simpson
Page 91 and 92: ANNUAL DINNER 87John Hirst did anot
Page 93 and 94: JEKYLL AND HYDE 89While hateful Hyd
Page 95 and 96: SCOTTISH MEETS 91energetic to scram
Page 97 and 98: LONDON SECTION, 1959During this yea
Page 99 and 100: RlSSlANS WITH SOME OK THEIR HOSTS I
Page 101: 96 EDITOR'S NOTESGimmer where Paul
show all

Year of publication 1960 - Fell and Rock Climbing Club

Create successful ePaper yourself

Delete template?

Save as template?