Year of publication 1960 - Fell and Rock Climbing Club

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74 IN MEMORIAMwith the rope streaming out horizontally and his corduroybreeches cracking like pistol shots.During World War II Arthur served as an embarkationstaff officer in Liverpool and Reykjavik until 1942, when hewas invalided out of the Army owing to an illness from whichhe never fully recovered.Following an accident when attempting the outside routeon Kern Knotts Crack with me he insisted, in spite of whatturned out to be quite serious injuries, on walking back toLangdale; and from the fortitude and courage he displayedon that occasion I can well understand the unquenchablespirit with which he faced his many years of illness andconsequent banishment from the fells and crags he lovedso well.GRAHAM WILSON.IDA M. WHITWORTH, 1924-1959Ida Whitworth joined the Club in 1924. It must have beenwhile she was qualifying for membership by adding somerock climbs to her long list of fell walks that my husband andI lured her over to Buttermere at New Year for a day onPillar. I think we did the North Climb; I remember it waspretty wet and cold. She had just time on our return to boltone of Miss Edmondson's superb teas, and then she had toset off back to Ambleside by car to play the violin that eveningat a concert. All this was typical of Ida. She was game foranything, she embraced life from so many angles and her zestwas an unfailing spring. Typical also were the days at herhome at Broad Ings when we would set off in the morningwith her four children for a family fell walk, and spend theevening after the children were in bed discussing politics ingeneral and the League of Nations in particular. Ida was anidealist; she had strong individual dislikes, but she could nothelp believing that human beings as a whole are motivatedby generosity and a warm disinterested love of their fellows,because these were her own motives. When one sometimesteased her or argued that she was being unrealistic, it feltrather like winging a bird in flight.She expended a lot of her idealism on 'causes'; all her lifeshe was an ardent Liberal. Her husband, who was killed in1918, had been a Liberal candidate and her father was for a
IN MEMORIAM 75number of years a Liberal Member. But causes never preventedher from turning her idealism to people. Those whoknew her well knew the careful, loving and continuous troubleto which she would go to help anyone in any sort of distress.She was a member of the Society of Friends and a frequentworker in their undertakings, and in her was exemplified theQuaker spirit of caritas, corporate and personal, at its best.After the first World War she took her four small childrenabroad and lived for a time in Switzerland. She climbed anumber of peaks either then or on subsequent visits and madeseveral ski-tours. She got to know the life of the peasants inthe high valleys and her translation of Prior Siegen'sfascinating book on the Lotschenthal, just now published, isher tribute of affection and admiration. She had alsotranslated a collection of Valaisian folk stories: 'The AlpLegends'. I do not think that she attended meets of the Clubvery often, with the exception of the Annual Dinner, butmany members must have known her and responded to herwarmth and enthusiasm.K. C. CHORLEY.R. s. KNIGHT, 1958-1959H. G. STEPHENSON, Graduating Member 1956-1959In the terrible misfortune which befell the BaturaMustagh Expedition of 1959, the Club lost two of its mostpromising young climbers, Dick Knight and HarryStephenson.The only way to breach the great Batura Wall and gainaccess to the high peaks had been to ascend a very rapidlymovingicefall. This done, and the support party dismissed,the five climbers of the assault party were effectually cut offfrom Base Camp, but the mountains lay open before them.They were at 18,000 feet, they believed their biggestdifficulties to be behind them, and they had 28 days' food.They never returned, and it is presumed they were lost in theviolent storms which occurred some ten days later.Knight came from Betchworth, Surrey. He was educatedat Epsom College and served two years in the R.A. beforegoing to Nottingham University, where he met Stephenson.Stephenson had come to Nottingham from WorkingtonGrammar School.
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ft'H. P. SMLSBURY (President, 19.5K
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CONTENTSPAGEThe North Face of the G
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2 NORTH FACE OF GRANDES JORASSESpai
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4 NORTH FACE OF GRANDES JORASSESdur
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EXTREMES AND EXCESSESHarold DrasdoT
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8 EXTREMES AND EXCESSESget attached
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1(1 EXTREMES AND EXCESSESLater it w
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12 THE EVENING ALPSnice bed here, o
Page 17 and 18:
14 THE EVENING ALPSindeed awaiting
Page 21 and 22:
18 THE EVENING ALPSmaxim: nature ab
Page 23 and 24:
20 THE EVENING ALPSa party of four
Page 25 and 26:
2.2 THE EVENING ALPSCanadian proble
Page 27 and 28: THE MOUNTAINS OF MOURNEPeter Grindl
Page 29 and 30: 26 THE MOUNTAINS OF MOURNEthe Spelg
Page 31 and 32: Peter Grindley 27the line in a very
Page 33 and 34: Peter Grindley 29But this is a digr
Page 35 and 36: G. Oliver 31to the next pitch which
Page 37 and 38: G. Oliver 33Phil Gordon was leading
Page 39 and 40: G. Oliver 35The second pitch, which
Page 41 and 42: SOME SCOTTISH SCRAMBLESTerry Sulliv
Page 43 and 44: Terry Sullivan 39here things went u
Page 45 and 46: A BRAKING HITCHJohn C. LythThis hit
Page 47 and 48: John C. Lyth 43
Page 49 and 50: John C. Lyth 45The rope is laid as
Page 51 and 52: CLIMBS OLD AND NEWEAGLE CRAGTRAPEZE
Page 53 and 54: Peter Moffat 49(2) 65 feet. Continu
Page 55 and 56: Peter Moffat 51right, round a rib,
Page 57 and 58: Peter Moffat 53(2) 100 feet. The be
Page 59 and 60: Peter Moffat 55stance with good fla
Page 61 and 62: Peter Moffat 57(2) 70 feet. Travers
Page 63 and 64: Peter Moffat 59(3) 60 feet. Climb u
Page 65 and 66: Peter Moffat 61LANGDALEGIMMER CRAGK
Page 67 and 68: Peter Moffat 63above almost to a ju
Page 69 and 70: Peter Moffat 65(4) 80 feet. This pi
Page 71 and 72: Peter Moffat 67the final overhangin
Page 73 and 74: IN MEMORIAMHENRY BRAITHWAITE, 1906-
Page 75 and 76: IN MEMORIAM 71of an observant and i
Page 77: IN MEMORIAM 73years all school holi
Page 81 and 82: IN MEMORIAM 77assert that, protecte
Page 83 and 84: CLIMBS AND EXPEDITIONS 79He carried
Page 85 and 86: CLIMBS AND EXPEDITIONS 81Terry Sull
Page 87 and 88: THE YEAR WITH THE CLUBHarry Ironfie
Page 89 and 90: ANNUAL DINNER, 1959F. H. F. Simpson
Page 91 and 92: ANNUAL DINNER 87John Hirst did anot
Page 93 and 94: JEKYLL AND HYDE 89While hateful Hyd
Page 95 and 96: SCOTTISH MEETS 91energetic to scram
Page 97 and 98: LONDON SECTION, 1959During this yea
Page 99 and 100: RlSSlANS WITH SOME OK THEIR HOSTS I
Page 101 and 102: 96 EDITOR'S NOTESGimmer where Paul
Page 103: CLIMBING BOOK 1893-1906A note by J.
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Year of publication 1960 - Fell and Rock Climbing Club

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