Year of publication 1960 - Fell and Rock Climbing Club

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42 A B R A K I N G HITCHdown some 15 feet before the rope tightened. I was quitepleased when it did, with a further 30 or 40 feet down to steepscree.THE PRUSIK SLINGFor any who wish to try this as a safeguard when 'leading'in the manner described, or exploring a new climb, I givethese hints from considerable experience.(a) The sling should be thinner than the rope, otherwise theknot may slip instead of locking.(b) Three turns round the rope, instead of the usual two,doubly ensures its locking, and adds little to the frictionwhen slipping the knot up.(c) When one hand only is free to bring up the sling, the ropemay be held down by catching it between a knee and therock face. If there is a second, he can be told to hold therope down when called on—but warned not to pull his'leader' off!(d) Use a sling long enough to allow the knot to slide up2 or 3 feet at once—in fact above the head; and if bothhands are free, pull the rope down taut through the knot.With a long, elastic nylon, this makes a comforting 'tightrope'—until one begins to climb again!(e) For those unacquainted with the Prusik sling (describedin various books), Fig. B shows it applied to the rope withthree turns. It needs no explanation.TO ABSEIL ON THE DOUBLED ROPEWhen it is required to bring the rope down after abseiling,the braking hitch can be used with the double rope; but it isbetter to prevent one side from running round the belay, andto use that as a single rope. This is readily done by making anoverhand loop in one rope, and snapping a karabiner throughthe loop and onto the other rope, as in Fig. C. This otherrope, complete with braking hitch on a second karabiner, isthen used for the abseil.The rope with the overhand loop can hang loose or begrasped with the hand which holds the rope above the head.Alternatively, I have found it useful as a life line for a novice.When finally it is required to bring the rope down, it isnecessary only to pull on the end with the loop and karabiner,when the other end will slide round the belay in the ordinaryway.
John C. Lyth 43
Page 1 and 2: ft'H. P. SMLSBURY (President, 19.5K
Page 3 and 4: CONTENTSPAGEThe North Face of the G
Page 5 and 6: 2 NORTH FACE OF GRANDES JORASSESpai
Page 7 and 8: 4 NORTH FACE OF GRANDES JORASSESdur
Page 9 and 10: EXTREMES AND EXCESSESHarold DrasdoT
Page 11 and 12: 8 EXTREMES AND EXCESSESget attached
Page 13 and 14: 1(1 EXTREMES AND EXCESSESLater it w
Page 15 and 16: 12 THE EVENING ALPSnice bed here, o
Page 17 and 18: 14 THE EVENING ALPSindeed awaiting
Page 21 and 22: 18 THE EVENING ALPSmaxim: nature ab
Page 23 and 24: 20 THE EVENING ALPSa party of four
Page 25 and 26: 2.2 THE EVENING ALPSCanadian proble
Page 27 and 28: THE MOUNTAINS OF MOURNEPeter Grindl
Page 29 and 30: 26 THE MOUNTAINS OF MOURNEthe Spelg
Page 31 and 32: Peter Grindley 27the line in a very
Page 33 and 34: Peter Grindley 29But this is a digr
Page 35 and 36: G. Oliver 31to the next pitch which
Page 37 and 38: G. Oliver 33Phil Gordon was leading
Page 39 and 40: G. Oliver 35The second pitch, which
Page 41 and 42: SOME SCOTTISH SCRAMBLESTerry Sulliv
Page 43 and 44: Terry Sullivan 39here things went u
Page 45: A BRAKING HITCHJohn C. LythThis hit
Page 49 and 50: John C. Lyth 45The rope is laid as
Page 51 and 52: CLIMBS OLD AND NEWEAGLE CRAGTRAPEZE
Page 53 and 54: Peter Moffat 49(2) 65 feet. Continu
Page 55 and 56: Peter Moffat 51right, round a rib,
Page 57 and 58: Peter Moffat 53(2) 100 feet. The be
Page 59 and 60: Peter Moffat 55stance with good fla
Page 61 and 62: Peter Moffat 57(2) 70 feet. Travers
Page 63 and 64: Peter Moffat 59(3) 60 feet. Climb u
Page 65 and 66: Peter Moffat 61LANGDALEGIMMER CRAGK
Page 67 and 68: Peter Moffat 63above almost to a ju
Page 69 and 70: Peter Moffat 65(4) 80 feet. This pi
Page 71 and 72: Peter Moffat 67the final overhangin
Page 73 and 74: IN MEMORIAMHENRY BRAITHWAITE, 1906-
Page 75 and 76: IN MEMORIAM 71of an observant and i
Page 77 and 78: IN MEMORIAM 73years all school holi
Page 79 and 80: IN MEMORIAM 75number of years a Lib
Page 81 and 82: IN MEMORIAM 77assert that, protecte
Page 83 and 84: CLIMBS AND EXPEDITIONS 79He carried
Page 85 and 86: CLIMBS AND EXPEDITIONS 81Terry Sull
Page 87 and 88: THE YEAR WITH THE CLUBHarry Ironfie
Page 89 and 90: ANNUAL DINNER, 1959F. H. F. Simpson
Page 91 and 92: ANNUAL DINNER 87John Hirst did anot
Page 93 and 94: JEKYLL AND HYDE 89While hateful Hyd
Page 95 and 96: SCOTTISH MEETS 91energetic to scram
Page 97 and 98:
LONDON SECTION, 1959During this yea
Page 99 and 100:
RlSSlANS WITH SOME OK THEIR HOSTS I
Page 101 and 102:
96 EDITOR'S NOTESGimmer where Paul
Page 103:
CLIMBING BOOK 1893-1906A note by J.
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Year of publication 1960 - Fell and Rock Climbing Club

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