Year of publication 1960 - Fell and Rock Climbing Club

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54 CLIMBS OLD AND NEWa gangway is reached, which is climbed on good holds to aspike belay.(3) 65 feet. A fine traverse to the right is made for 20 feet; aheadand above a small spike of rock can be seen; a sling can belooped over this and a semi-pendulum be effected ontosmall holds. The rib above is climbed on good holds. Spikebelay.STRIDDLE CRAGSCHIZOPHRENIA 140 feet. Very severe. First ascent 5th April,1959. C. J. Crowther, D.N.G. Starts up a largedetached boulder, 15 feet left of Ding Dong.(1) 50 feet. Climb the boulder and cross to the main slabs.Follow Ding Dong to the poor belays below a nose.(2) 45 feet. Climb the nose direct and continue up a slab to aposition below the final nose. Move right to a large ledgeand belay. Stance below pitch 3 of Ding Dong.(3) 45 feet. From the belay a delicate ascending traverse left ismade to the foot of a steep open corner which is climbed.The wall above is crossed to a crack which contains a largerecessed hold, the key to the upper face. Once the feet are inthe hold difficulties are over and the final moves, though stillexposed, lead amiably to block belays at the top.ELVINA 210 feet. Very Difficult. First ascent 31stAugust, 1959. D.N.G., S. Thompson. Starts3 feet to the left of Schizophrenia below an obvious heatherygroove.(1) 30 feet. The groove is climbed until steep rock above suggestsa finish up the wall on the left. Belay well to the right of theheather ledge.(2) 45 feet. The 10-foot wall to the left of the belay is surmountedand is followed by an easy traverse left to a steep rib whichterminates the ledge. Belay.(3) 40 feet. Climb the crest of the rib, and as it broadens bearslightly right to a good spike belay. Junction with FretsawClimb.(4) 35 feet. Descend slightly and cross the wall on the left bytraversing above a large detached flake. A spike belay isreached after 10 feet of climbing up the rib which bounds thewall.(5) 60 feet. Step up and right into an open scoop, then ascendthe fine rock ahead on good holds. Flake belay.THE GIRDLE 450 feet. Severe. First ascent 4th October,OF CESTUS 1959. D.N.G., J. P. Greenop. Starts at the footof the great chockstone pitch in Fleetwith Gully.(1) 45 feet. The imposing left wall of the gully is climbed onmagnificent rock. Bear left at 30 feet and pull onto a small
Peter Moffat 55stance with good flake belay below a deeply cut groovewhich starts up to the right.(2) 35 feet. The groove soon impends and is left after 20 feet infavour of the exposed wall on the right. This is climbeddirectly to a heather platform with poor belays.(3) 30 feet. Descend a little to the left and traverse left overheathery rock to a prominent spike belay.(4) 70 feet. Pitch 3 of Traverse and Slab Climb.(5) 40 feet. Pitch 3 of Pedagogue's Chimney.(6) 25 feet. Pitch 4 of Pedagogue's Chimney.(7) 110 feet. Climb up and left for 10 feet, then descend a lichencoveredslab into the steep heathery groove on pitch 2 ofDing Dong. Descend this for about 5 feet, then mount theshort steep wall on the left to gain a slab below a diagonalcrevasse. An exposed traverse left is made on small holdsfor some 30 feet until it is possible to round a mossy nose.Easier climbing up and left brings a ledge and triangularblock belav within reach.(8) 35 feet. Pitch 4 of Elvina.(9) 60 feet. Pitch 5 of Elvina.CONISTONDOW CRAGMISTAKEN ROUTE 180 feet. Hard severe. First ascent 10thOctober, 1959. M. P. Hatton, P. Riley (alternateleads). Starts as for Quest at the small cairn.(1) 70 feet. Climb diagonally left up the wall to grass ledge andbelay.(2) 30 feet. Traverse left under the large overhang for about20 feet, then up bearing slightly left to a small line belay ona grass ledge.(3) 45 feet. Step down and traverse right above the overhang.The next few moves are the crux of the climb. Ascenddiagonally right to the base of a grassy groove, climb thisfor about 10 feet then make an awkward step left andascend to a grass ledge. Follow this to the left-hand endwhere a thread belay exists.(4) 35 feet. Climb the wall above trending right to a mossy slab.Traverse to the right across this and ascend the clean wallon its right on good holds to a line belay round a block.This is the top of North Wall (North Gully).NORTH WALL 80 feet. Severe. First ascent 19th September,'A' BUTTRESS 1959. M. P. Hatton, P. Riley (alternateDIRECT FINISH leads).(1) 55 feet. From the belay at the top of pitch 3 of North Wall thevertical right-angled corner is climbed. Flake belay belowan open crack.
Page 1 and 2:
ft'H. P. SMLSBURY (President, 19.5K
Page 3 and 4:
CONTENTSPAGEThe North Face of the G
Page 5 and 6:
2 NORTH FACE OF GRANDES JORASSESpai
Page 7 and 8: 4 NORTH FACE OF GRANDES JORASSESdur
Page 9 and 10: EXTREMES AND EXCESSESHarold DrasdoT
Page 11 and 12: 8 EXTREMES AND EXCESSESget attached
Page 13 and 14: 1(1 EXTREMES AND EXCESSESLater it w
Page 15 and 16: 12 THE EVENING ALPSnice bed here, o
Page 17 and 18: 14 THE EVENING ALPSindeed awaiting
Page 21 and 22: 18 THE EVENING ALPSmaxim: nature ab
Page 23 and 24: 20 THE EVENING ALPSa party of four
Page 25 and 26: 2.2 THE EVENING ALPSCanadian proble
Page 27 and 28: THE MOUNTAINS OF MOURNEPeter Grindl
Page 29 and 30: 26 THE MOUNTAINS OF MOURNEthe Spelg
Page 31 and 32: Peter Grindley 27the line in a very
Page 33 and 34: Peter Grindley 29But this is a digr
Page 35 and 36: G. Oliver 31to the next pitch which
Page 37 and 38: G. Oliver 33Phil Gordon was leading
Page 39 and 40: G. Oliver 35The second pitch, which
Page 41 and 42: SOME SCOTTISH SCRAMBLESTerry Sulliv
Page 43 and 44: Terry Sullivan 39here things went u
Page 45 and 46: A BRAKING HITCHJohn C. LythThis hit
Page 47 and 48: John C. Lyth 43
Page 49 and 50: John C. Lyth 45The rope is laid as
Page 51 and 52: CLIMBS OLD AND NEWEAGLE CRAGTRAPEZE
Page 53 and 54: Peter Moffat 49(2) 65 feet. Continu
Page 55 and 56: Peter Moffat 51right, round a rib,
Page 57: Peter Moffat 53(2) 100 feet. The be
Page 61 and 62: Peter Moffat 57(2) 70 feet. Travers
Page 63 and 64: Peter Moffat 59(3) 60 feet. Climb u
Page 65 and 66: Peter Moffat 61LANGDALEGIMMER CRAGK
Page 67 and 68: Peter Moffat 63above almost to a ju
Page 69 and 70: Peter Moffat 65(4) 80 feet. This pi
Page 71 and 72: Peter Moffat 67the final overhangin
Page 73 and 74: IN MEMORIAMHENRY BRAITHWAITE, 1906-
Page 75 and 76: IN MEMORIAM 71of an observant and i
Page 77 and 78: IN MEMORIAM 73years all school holi
Page 79 and 80: IN MEMORIAM 75number of years a Lib
Page 81 and 82: IN MEMORIAM 77assert that, protecte
Page 83 and 84: CLIMBS AND EXPEDITIONS 79He carried
Page 85 and 86: CLIMBS AND EXPEDITIONS 81Terry Sull
Page 87 and 88: THE YEAR WITH THE CLUBHarry Ironfie
Page 89 and 90: ANNUAL DINNER, 1959F. H. F. Simpson
Page 91 and 92: ANNUAL DINNER 87John Hirst did anot
Page 93 and 94: JEKYLL AND HYDE 89While hateful Hyd
Page 95 and 96: SCOTTISH MEETS 91energetic to scram
Page 97 and 98: LONDON SECTION, 1959During this yea
Page 99 and 100: RlSSlANS WITH SOME OK THEIR HOSTS I
Page 101 and 102: 96 EDITOR'S NOTESGimmer where Paul
Page 103: CLIMBING BOOK 1893-1906A note by J.
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Year of publication 1960 - Fell and Rock Climbing Club

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