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Year of publication 1960 - Fell and Rock Climbing Club

Year of publication 1960 - Fell and Rock Climbing Club

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Peter M<strong>of</strong>fat 51right, round a rib, into an open exposed chimney which isclimbed to a heather ledge <strong>and</strong> block belays.(3) 25 feet. Up <strong>and</strong> left over much easier rock to the foot <strong>of</strong> avertical ill-defined chimney. Block belay.(4) 60 feet. The chimney, then continue up <strong>and</strong> left to a grassyplatform in a little gully.(5) 30 feet. A short rough wall on the left. Poor belay.(6) 25 feet. The arete ahead.(7) 50 feet. This broadens to a buttress with an awkward finish ona grass ledge.(8) 80 feet. A short wall is followed by sterner rock which can beclimbed direct by using a crack or by a groove. Easyangledslabs lead to a belay.(9) 40 feet. Keep to the right-h<strong>and</strong> edge <strong>of</strong> the slabs overlookingthe gully.(10) 85 feet. Easy climbing <strong>and</strong> scrambling, keeping right overslabs <strong>and</strong> a broad cracked ridge.(11) 25 feet. The final gendarme turns out to be a steep wall.NATIONAL TRUSTDECEPTIONCRAGS210 feet. Mild severe. First ascent 3rd June,1959. I. Clough, S. R. Wilkinson. Starts at alarge cairn at the lowest rocks <strong>of</strong> the northern <strong>of</strong> the two NationalTrust crags. Follows the left-h<strong>and</strong> side <strong>of</strong> the cliff which projectsfrom the rest <strong>of</strong> the crag.(1) 60 feet. Up a 15-foot groove, then scramble up right to a treebelay below the steep wall.(2) 60 feet. Up above belay <strong>and</strong> round right, into an undercutslab corner. Up to the overhang, traverse right to the edge,then up the rib to a tree belay. A good pitch.(3) 40 feet. Up left, then right, to a tree belay.(4) 50 feet. Diagonally left up the wall then follow the arete tothe top <strong>and</strong> the tourist path.GREAT END CRAGREDBERRY WALL345 feet. Very severe. First ascent November,1958. J. A. Austin, B. A. Fuller (alternateleads). Starts 30 feet right <strong>of</strong> a big cave by a 20-foot embeddedpinnacle.(1) 100 feet. Climb the pinnacle. Step onto a grassy gangwaysloping up left, <strong>and</strong> follow it to a large holly tree at the foot<strong>of</strong> a groove slanting to the right. Climb the slab to a largetree belay.(2) 20 feet. Follow the thin rake slanting right behind the treeto a small holly <strong>and</strong> an oak tree belay.(3) 60 feet. Move back down the rake until it is possible to stepround the rib into a shallow groove. Traverse across twomore grooves to a grass ledge. Along the ledge until it ispossible to climb up past a tree to a ledge <strong>and</strong> belay.

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