Year of publication 1960 - Fell and Rock Climbing Club

82 CLIMBS AND EXPEDITIONSTo reach most of the summits it is desirable to camp or bivouac.The Grotte des Anges is probably the best centre; 4 miles up theViro Valley from Calasima, it can now be reached by a track forforestry lorries. Two other possible sites exist farther up this valley.Climbs available include: Capo Tafonata, 2,343 m.—moderate;Paglia Orba, 2,523 m.—several routes from easy upwards; Mte.Albano and Cinque Fratri; Mte Cinto, 2,707 m. via the Col deCrocetta—a scramble; Pta. Minuta and Capo Larghia—reporteddifficult; ridge from Paglia Orba to Pta. Minuta includes CapoUccello and numerous pinnacles of which we know nothing. Theapproach to this group of mountains from the west via Galeria andManso might be interesting.From Calaccucia, Mte. Cinto can be reached via the Bergeried'Ascita by scrambling up a steep gully. Asco is said to be a goodcentre and Mte. Cinto can be climbed from here also by bivouackingabove Asco. Mte. d'Oro, 2,391 m., looks a fine pile from Vizzavona,but the popular route up La Scala gully is easy; the route via theC.A.F. cabin (shelter only) appeared to catch far more cloud. Mte.Renoso, whose summit can be reached by rough walking fromBastelica, provides a fine view across the island. The Aiguilles deBavella are very impressive and might prove interesting.A climbing booklet to Mte. d'Oro and Rotondo is available,others are in preparation. The Guide Bleu and Michelin map areuseful. Black and white maps 1/50,000 (no contours) can be obtained.The Syndicat d'Initiative (Ajaccio, etc.) will supply a leaflet ofbuses, trains, hotels, etc.Facilities at official camp sites may be good, bad or non-existent.In the mountains level areas free from maquis are hard to find;bivouacking is feasible in summer but warm equipment is neededover 5,000 feet. Pigs ravage unattended camps, so goods must bestacked out of their reach.Meals and provisions are obtainable in most villages. Wood firesare recommended for cooking in the mountains. Paraffin (petrol) isscarce; meths. (alcohol) is better and petrol can be obtained at therare filling stations. Butane is often obtainable. At some placesscooters, cars, donkeys and drivers can be hired.The paths shown on the maps are often non-existent or obliteratedby animals. The shepherds are at the bergeries from mid-June tomid-September. It is useful to have cigarettes for them as they willnot accept payment for small services. It is essential to rise at dawnbecause of heat later and the likelihood of midday clouds. In Aprilthe maquis flowers are said to be at their best but the mountains aresnow covered.